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I've never fished the Charlton/Mako but I know a number of guys who have them. All but one are pretty hardcore tarpon guys (and guides) who fish a lot of tournaments and they swear by them.

For me, I'm a Tibor fan-boy. But specifically the Everglades/Riptide/Gulfstream/Pacific line. They're bulletproof reels and will last forever. I like the fact that both of my boys (currently 9 & 5) will be able to use the same Gulfstream to catch their first tarpon that I did years ago. To me, they're just a classic piece of functional art and I prefer their look to the Charlton/Mako reels.

That being said, the Charlton/Mako reels are probably better reels than the Tibor. But there's a point of diminishing returns. 99% of us will never need or realize the extra performance value of a the C/M over a Tibor. Now, if you're fishing the big-time tarpon trips or chasing billfish or GTs on a regular basis then I'm sure they're worth it. If not, but you're willing or able to afford the price difference and want to go with the C/M reel go for it and you'll have a lifetime reel.

Personally, if I'm paying that much I'm more likely to buy classic Seamaster reels but that's more for aesthetic purposes.
 
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This Striped Marlin caught in the Galapagos was caught on their 9700. The same reel also caught a 75lb Bluefin Tuna. Unfortunately while fighting the tuna the reel "blew up", fish was still landed but the reel was unusable at that point. I contacted Nick and Mark and they asked me to send some pictures of the reel before I shipped it back to them. They diagnosed what happened, repaired and shipped it back on their dime and quickly.
Working in a Fly shop that sells amazing brands I can order myself a reel from most manufacturing at a good price. With that said, the customer service has been excellent and I have purchased a 9550 for tarpon and cobia fishing at full price.
 
A mako ≠ an actual Charlton from my understanding.. I have fished a Charlton and while it was a piece of art, it doesn’t do anything my current reels don't do except cost more money. Let’s be honest, outside of large tarpon, sharks and Pelagics (which probably 3% of Microskiffers fish for on a regular basis) a fly reel is just a line holder. How much “stopping power” a drag has or how short the range of adjustment is doesn’t even enter the equation 99% of the time.

While my old ass Tibor’s might not be “the precision instrument for fly fishing” they tend to do the job pretty well day in and day out with just a quick rinse in the driveway.

And question for the OP.. Oliver white, Jako Lucas, David Mangum.
F one, marry one, kill one? Go!
i seldom ever laugh hard to any questions online, but this one cracked me up, even 3 years later... haha
 
Weight ... I do not find the weight of a reel in a cast is a problem. Thus, my only interest (from trout to salt fly -fishing) in weight is actually to avoid wrist stress, when I am having to balance a rod in my hand, after a spey cast. A too light reel forces you to tighten your grip and use your wrist to flight the drag pulling the tip in. This particularly noticable for me when you get to long rods 15'+.

But holding a single hand rod, while searching for a fish in the marsh, mangrove or flats is not a concern.

The only time, I have searched for a light reel for a SH, was for my Asquith 7wt for bonefish. This rod felt so light, I thought I should consider weight, so I went with a Danielsson F3W.
 
Weight ... I do not find the weight of a reel in a cast is a problem, and thus my only interest (from trout to Salt) in weight is actually to avoid wrist stress, when I am having to balance a rod in my hand, after a spey cast. A too light reel forces you to use your wrist to flight the drag pulling the tip in. This particularly noticable for me when you get to long rods 15'+.

But holding a single hand rod, while searching for a fish in the marsh, mangrove or flats is not a concern.

The only time, I have searched for a light reel for a SH, was for my Asquith 7wt for bonefish. This rod felt so light, I thought I should consider weight, so I went with a Danielsson F3W.
Anyone will be more fatigued at the end of a day on the casting platform of a skiff with a steady breeze and an extra six ounces in their hand. Or the end of the day on an Amazon tributary after landing thirty peacocks and then el grande pops up. Mako reels are purposely built to pull on a few large species a day. Not cast accurately all day with the reel in your hand.
 
I've not owned a Mako reel but I had a bunch of Charlton reels which share a little bit of the same DNA. While they were the nicest reels I've ever owned from a "wow, this exudes quality" standpoint, they were not as sealed as the marketing suggested. I realize they are fishing reels and not dive tanks but when wading a flat it's not unheard of for reels to get wet or dunked, intentionally or otherwise. I sent Charlton reels back for service multiple times due to water intrusion, you could hear it sloshing around in there like a snow globe. I do hope that Mako has addressed the water intrusion issue if they are pitching the reels as "sealed" because the prior reel that Jack designed, wasn't.
 
I had 2 x 9500s and a 9600 for a good few years. I fished the 9500s pretty hard and had water ingress into both causing a sticky drag. I don't dunk reels ever so it didn't happen that way.

I don't know if things have changed (all of mine were early JC made) but the suggestion they are sealed was ambitious - at least for the 1st gens.

The only ISO tested sealed drags are in Lamsons AFAIK.

The 9500s were pretty heavy - too much for an #8 but OK on a #9. Also pretty squat not unlike the old Abel Super 10.

If I was chasing GTs in a far away place I would definitely look at a 9550 - it has the best weight/proportions in my view.
 
I have a few Charltons and a few Makos...also fish Seigler reels (for similar reasons as the Mako/Charltons). I disagree with the statement they are overkill for inshore fish. There are a lot of big inshore fish - tarpon, GT, spinner sharks, etc. I was a diehard Abel fan years ago and a long thread on Stripers Online years ago that challenged my thinking so I bought a Charlton to see for myself.

I have kept extensive records of my tarpon fishing (that was my first use case for Charlton reels) with my guides, from where they were caught to how long it took to land them. I used to put in 2-3 weeks of tarpon time for many years so the numbers I put in the boat were enough for me to do a pretty reliable comparison. On average I dropped my fight time with tarpon significantly (from ~21 minutes to ~14 minutes) by using the adjustable drag on the Charlton.

The ability to start with 2-3 lb drag for startup, being able to ramp it up to 8 lb (or more, at times I will crank it to 12) allowed me to break a tarpon's spirit a LOT faster than using a cork drag and the palm of my hand to apply additional drag. I know, a lot of folks will say they can do a great job with the palm of their hand but the reality is you can't consistently apply that amount of drag for a prolonged period of time - it will vary, and if you're smart it will vary on the low side to avoid a break off. I've never broken off a tarpon from the drag of my Mako.

Are the heavy? They are heavier than competitors reels but I'll take that weight any day for the drag. If 3-4 ounces bother you on an 11 or 12 or 13 wt rods I'd suggest working out a bit, no offense. I can tell you, pumping up a 350# hammerhead from the depths that I don't feel those extra 3 ounces on my Mako (true story). I've used my Makos for billfish, sharks, tunoids, etc. I've never thought to myself "damn this reel is too heavy."

A lot of guys will still say it's overkill, anglers have used Medalists to land tarpon. All very true but back in the Medalist days there were more tarpon and more tarpon who were easy to get to bite. These days, in the Keys at least, they are so pressured that 1-2 fish a day is considered very good (and I'm talking 80-120 lb fish, not baby poon). At 1-2 fish a day, I want the best chance of landing them. In the old days, if someone lost 15 tarpon on a Medalist but landed 3 out of 50 bites you never heard about the 15 lost fish...only how about how a Medalist is all you need to land a tarpon. If a Medalist was so good we'd save money buying them and wouldn't bother with Tibors, Abels, Makos, Nautilus, etc. But...if you won't change the drag multiple times during a fight, I would say don't bother with a Mako. Tibor, Able, Nautilus, Hatch, Hardy all make fine reels (actually the Hardy does the one turn trick too IIRC) at a lower price point.

These days I also used Seigler. Great reels and with a drag functionally similar to a Mako.
 
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