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Could be getting water in the cowling when you launch or load also. Be sure your motor is trimmed up some, especially on steep ramps. I've seen many guys load their boats on steeper ramps and half of the motor and the whole transom would go under water.
 
The cowling seal and drains are closer to the water on short shaft obs. No big deal. Just remove the cowling and wash the engine pan after each use. Tohatsu obs are known for long life in salt water and used all over the world
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
It definitely has to be spray while running. To help find the source, find the air intake on the engine. Almost always in the back, up under the "handle" of the cowling, but some outboards take in air up under the chin too. That would be your saltwater vapor uptake location. I spray my entire power head down with T9 boeshield every 6 months or so.
Thanks.
 
Have someone else drive and video the engine while running to see if you are getting spray. If you trim it up a lot to run it could be adding to the spray theory, but you probably don't since the Whipray likes more a more trimmed down angle on the engine.
I just feel like the spray from the outside idea makes no sense unless his cowling seal is non existent, I don't think I could get water to go inside mine even if I tried. More than likely a bad cowling seal, or water intrusion from the inside somewhere from the cooling system.
I would not be chill with cleaning under my cowling after every trip screw that...
 
Are people regularly rinsing powerhead and wiring?
Other than doing an oil change. I only pull my cowl about three to four times a year. Just for shiats and giggles to take a peek. Never seen an issue at all. I do keep a nice layer of corrosion inhibitor applied. Usually after an oil change. Whiping down with all that spilt oil really puts a nice shine on everything
 
Other than doing an oil change. I only pull my cowl about three to four times a year. Just for shiats and giggles to take a peek. Never seen an issue at all. I do keep a nice layer of corrosion inhibitor applied. Usually after an oil change. Whiping down with all that spilt oil really puts a nice shine on everything
I use Boeshield on mine but other than a wipe down I would not think a full spray down would be great for the electronics.
 
Remove the cowling, trim the engine negative, starting at the front where cables exit, use a water hose with a small flow and wash the salt out the two weep holes in the pan. Then tilt the engine up and move water forward. Repeat. Leave the cowling off to dry for a while. If the boat is used in rough water all obs will accumulate salt in the pan over time. Once or twice a year is good for Yamaha
 
I just feel like the spray from the outside idea makes no sense unless his cowling seal is non existent, I don't think I could get water to go inside mine even if I tried. More than likely a bad cowling seal, or water intrusion from the inside somewhere from the cooling system.
I would not be chill with cleaning under my cowling after every trip screw that...
The engine has to breath...for the combustion? All cowlings have vents somewhere. Fine mist will travel in the with the air. That's the working theory anyway.
 
Just wondering if anyone else has put a 60 Tohatsu short shaft on an older Whipray and has had issues with a lot of salt build up under the cowling. And, if so, what the problem was and/or solution, other than cleaning out the salt after every trip.
I developed a water hose leak on a johnson I had years ago. Bad hose clamp. It sprayed a fine mist of saltwater inside the cowling until I notices water dripping out of the chin of the engine when I ran it, then tilted up to start poling. I irrigated the entire powerhead with a barely running fresh water hose, allowed it to air dry, then liberally sprayed with CRC or the like. I assume that you have inspected for a water leak?
 
The engine has to breath...for the combustion? All cowlings have vents somewhere. Fine mist will travel in the with the air. That's the working theory anyway.
For sure but I'm saying even when I spray down hard all over with a high pressure hose I don't any moisture in there, but that is fresh water. Just thinking out loud
 
Probably not what you want to hear but it’s a known issue with these hulls. Keep the motor, it’s good - the hull is trash, happy to haul it off but will want the trailer too.
 
Just wondering if anyone else has put a 60 Tohatsu short shaft on an older Whipray and has had issues with a lot of salt build up under the cowling. And, if so, what the problem was and/or solution, other than cleaning out the salt after every trip.
Post pictures. There are a lot of assumptions and over engineering on this thread Engines get hot and sweat due to condensation and air intake can have salt. Once the engine cools, the salt can crystalize. I've had other engines have salt crystals and I chalked up to this.

There are times I get back from the day and I could swear I just have been running in a salt pond - the entire cowling covered in big salt crystals. This is due to higher salinity in the water. When fresh water is higher, there is less salt. Salt is in the air as I stated above - it could just be higher salinity in the air intake.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
I developed a water hose leak on a johnson I had years ago. Bad hose clamp. It sprayed a fine mist of saltwater inside the cowling until I notices water dripping out of the chin of the engine when I ran it, then tilted up to start poling. I irrigated the entire powerhead with a barely running fresh water hose, allowed it to air dry, then liberally sprayed with CRC or the like. I assume that you have inspected for a water leak?
Yep, we have checked and will do it again. We think the water came in through the vent on the top of the cowling. We will check for hose leaks again, but the engine only has 20 hrs on it. Salt deposits were cleaned out a couple weeks ago when the engine was at a good mechanic’s shop for a different issue; after that we did a couple trips to Flamingo and out to the gulf around Sandy Key. As a result, there were more salt deposits in the bottom of the engine pan. We get quite a bit of upward spray from the trim tabs, and are considering ways to knock that spray downward, so it doesn’t affect the engine.
 
Just out of curiosity I have a 98 whipray and the max hp rating is 30 hp did they raise the hp ratings after 98? I'm assuming yours is a 16 footer as well.
 
Yep, we have checked and will do it again. We think the water came in through the vent on the top of the cowling. We will check for hose leaks again, but the engine only has 20 hrs on it. Salt deposits were cleaned out a couple weeks ago when the engine was at a good mechanic’s shop for a different issue; after that we did a couple trips to Flamingo and out to the gulf around Sandy Key. As a result, there were more salt deposits in the bottom of the engine pan. We get quite a bit of upward spray from the trim tabs, and are considering ways to knock that spray downward, so it doesn’t affect the engine.
What for are your trim tab blades? Upward folded edges or downward? Many of the old boats have downward edges...for steering help? IDK. That may be something to cogitate on.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
What for are your trim tab blades? Upward folded edges or downward? Many of the old boats have downward edges...for steering help? IDK. That may be something to cogitate on.
The blades on our new tabs are upward folded. The originals that were recently replaced are upward folded. I have talked with Tom Gordon at Skiff Shop, who did our recent Reno work, and he doesn’t think the problem is the tabs. It may be that the engine needs to be raised one hole, if possible with the new platform. And, apparently there is a ready solution to the spray coming from the large Lowrance transducer. It sounds like most of our spray issues are solvable. thanks for everyone’s feedback.
 
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