Odd. Never had any problems with it.

 

Same here, tried the rest and been using nothing but Sufix832 for a couple of years now.

 

I have heard of people getting bad spools of braid. Mostly from amazon and eBay because it was Chinese stuff. I am currently using 8lb 832 on my spinning setups with no issues and its been on there a while. It does fade pretty fast though. When I'm done with it I have a spool of 8lb Ohero I'm going to try out to compare. The Ohero is supposed to be pretty good also but is hard to find for me locally. Do a search on here about braid and there is a thread with a couple pages of info.

 

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/braid-again.44553/


Have fun!

 

Thanks for the replies. I suspected it might have been counterfeit also since I ordered it from Amazon. I did a search for "fake Sufix" and didn't find anything, and that is why I included the serial number when I emailed Sufix, but they didn't seem to think it was a problem.

 

Line is too cheap to skimp on discount crap, skimp on beer or clothes.

 

Diawa J braid.

 

Update for anyone interested, I've fished the Daiwa J-Braid I bought to replace it several times now, and am happy with it. Caught 22" reds and sail cats, no major tests on it yet but it does hold knots better than Sufix and is much stronger. I haven't broken the 30 lb, but the 15 lb broke at the knot at 17.5 lbs, so I'm satisfied.

Only downside to the J-Braid is that is it so supple it can wrap around the rod tip more easily if you get sloppy when popping plugs or lures and pull them out of the water. Not really a problem if you pay attention to you technique. No backlashes or wind knots, including casting into 15-20 mph winds yesterday.

 

I started using the 832 early this year, 10 and 15lb in chartreuse and white colors. I have the 15lb on 2 outfits and have 4 snook over 35" and 1 over 40" this summer with zero problems. I have Ohero 15lb in blue on another outfit and I like it as well. It is very soft and I've gotten wind knots in it a couple times but, it works well and the color retention on mine had been great

 

I have been using 10 and 20 lb super slick power pro for maybe 3 years. Works fine, brown 10lb on 2500 spinners and 20 green on the 4000 spinners. I have soft hands, but I have never broke even the ten tying a knot.

 

I have read good things about Sufix 832, but I have never tried it. I have been using PowerPro for years without any issues.

 

Been using braid for many years now and tried many brands, generally most is between 10-25# depending on rod/reel setup. Inshore mostly I'll use between 10-20# lines, the setups with 25 are my goto spinners for on the boat use for Snapper fishing, or tossing a quick bait at schooling Dolphin, Trippletail, or the odd Cobia sighed while fishing offshore.

Always come back to Power-Pro and/or Suffix 832 depending on what random day it happens to be when purchasing new line. Both work and work well for my purposes and never had a strange breakage.

My standard rigging is approx 6' Bimini Twist loop in the braid, Uni to Uni Braid to Fluro leader 15-25# depending on target, perhaps 10# Fluro if fishin for yellowtail or dock snapper, then most likely a loop to the hook or lure.

 

I have used Suffix 832 since the first year it was available. Spooled on all the reels 10 to 60#. No issues

 

I use mono only and with triple fish had terrific success on 12# test, then in the last couple of years tried Suffix and had problems with the line breaking during casts. Returned it to the tackle shop and he said it was a bad batch of mono. Then tried Ande, and had all of my casting reels changed out n after a couple of months the lines break during the cast of gold spoons for reds. Now changed out to 10# copolymer coated with fluorocarbon line, will see how this does. I do fish 2/3 days a week for reds in ponds.

 

...Now changed out to 10# copolymer coated with fluorocarbon line, will see how this does. I do fish 2/3 days a week for reds in ponds.

Which copolymer are you using now? I have heard good things about Yozuri and Pline.

 

Just made the switch to Pline on my antique Lews Speed Spool BB1L Casting Reel, will give feedback as I changed to a smaller diameter than previously used, now 10# line on 1/4oz Tsunami Swim baits. Should get more strikes with lighter line, we will see.

 

Have used most braid brands but settled on Power Pro Slick 8. It's much more limber than regular PP with few wind knots. Casts much better and ties good knots. I use the 10# in Timber in my local tannin-stained water or green if fishing in clear. I tie about a 3-foot section of Seaguar blue label 20# fluorocarbon leader to the Slick 8 using double uni knots with no issues.

As others have mentioned, braid will always over-test the stated line strength, so with 10 I'm probably fishing 12+, which is fine for trout, reds and smaller snook. Since I'm fishing 3000 class reels I load braid directly to the spool after I wrap a piece of teflon tape around the spool for the braid to grip. The tape peels right off when changing line and doesn't leave residue. I also use a single uni to tie the braid to the spool.

I've been told by a reliable source that all Power Pro is white originally and the colored dyes are added with wax. That's why the first time or two using new line it's a little stiffer, but as the wax breaks down the line becomes more supple.

 

Have used most braid brands but settled on Power Pro Slick 8. It's much more limber than regular PP with few wind knots. Casts much better and ties good knots. I use the 10# in Timber in my local tannin-stained water or green if fishing in clear. I tie about a 3-foot section of Seaguar blue label 20# fluorocarbon leader to the Slick 8 using double uni knots with no issues.

As others have mentioned, braid will always over-test the stated line strength, so with 10 I'm probably fishing 12+, which is fine for trout, reds and smaller snook. Since I'm fishing 3000 class reels I load braid directly to the spool after I wrap a piece of teflon tape around the spool for the braid to grip. The tape peels right off when changing line and doesn't leave residue. I also use a single uni to tie the braid to the spool.

I've been told by a reliable source that all Power Pro is white originally and the colored dyes are added with wax. That's why the first time or two using new line it's a little stiffer, but as the wax breaks down the line becomes more supple.

I was using PPS8 when it came out and loved it until I started having random line breaks on several spools in a row as well as many of my guide buddies and fishing buddies so I made the switch. Even if it were a limited run issue I won’t ever go back.

 

That surgeons loop is probably your issue. If you need a loop, you need a leader and it needs to be attached with a 14 turn Albright knot. If you are tying directly to the lure with the 832 use a Palomar. I use 832 exclusively on all of my spinning and casting reels for braid and those two knots have never slipped. Ever.

I'd be willing to bet you lost that red because the line got in his gill plate. Light braid is not cut resistant at all. I use 20# minimum but have boat flipped 8# reds from the tower with it.

 

That surgeons loop is probably your issue. If you need a loop, you need a leader and it needs to be attached with a 14 turn Albright knot. If you are tying directly to the lure with the 832 use a Palomar. I use 832 exclusively on all of my spinning and casting reels for braid and those two knots have never slipped. Ever.

I'd be willing to bet you lost that red because the line got in his gill plate. Light braid is not cut resistant at all. I use 20# minimum but have boat flipped 8# reds from the tower with it.

This. Most of those limp lines are wind knot hell.

Something also to keep in mind, is that your drag must have been locked up (something that we do near mangroves sometimes) because the drag on a typical 2500-3500 reel is 12lbs or so. Even weakend that braid should have held up unless it was cut on something.

I love Sufix 832 but like all brands a bad run can and does happen. JBraid is a solid choice and typically a bit cheaper. Side note as mentioned earlier with braid to leader either a modified Albright with a locking knot or an FG knot are your two best bets.

I run that same rod/reel setup with Sufix 832 and Toray Fluoro. I haven't lost a big fish yet on braid failure and that includes some very big sharks, rays, tarpon and snook on a 20lb setup. Funny enough our hooks often snap before the line.

Sorry I haven't replied, it seemed like this has fizzled out awhile ago, just saw all the new posts. I was running a Yo-Zuri 30 lb Fluoro leader tied with an FG knot, so I don't think it got caught on his gill plate. As I said originally, at first I suspected my knot failed until I looked at the line more closely, which is when I tested it. I wasn't using the surgeon's loop for fishing, as I know it is a weak knot, I just tied it to test the breaking strength with a scale. The Sufix broke at 75% of it's rated strength in the middle of the line, rather than at the knot.

I was willing to chalk it up to a bad batch of line and give them another shot, but their quality control and customer service was non-existent. They suggested I simply return it to where I bought it from if I wasn't happy with it, rather than wanting to inspect it.

I also don't think my drag was set too high, the rod was flexing but I wasn't even putting much pressure on it, and the fish had started pulling line off the reel.

FWIW, I've been happy with the Daiwa J-Braid and landed several mid slot sized reds on it with no issues. I've been using the Tony Peña knot to my leaders and really like it.

 

Jbraid.

 

I have one spool of slick 8 left-its definitely long casting but I hate it in the wind.

This. Most of those limp lines are wind knot hell.

Something also to keep in mind, is that your drag must have been locked up (something that we do near mangroves sometimes) because the drag on a typical 2500-3500 reel is 12lbs or so. Even weakend that braid should have held up unless it was cut on something.

I love Sufix 832 but like all brands a bad run can and does happen. JBraid is a solid choice and typically a bit cheaper. Side note as mentioned earlier with braid to leader either a modified Albright with a locking knot or an FG knot are your two best bets.

I run that same rod/reel setup with Sufix 832 and Toray Fluoro. I haven't lost a big fish yet on braid failure and that includes some very big sharks, rays, tarpon and snook on a 20lb setup. Funny enough our hooks often snap before the line.

 

I’ve had 832 on my spinning setups for a while now. I was out this weekend and noticed there was a splice in it. At first I thought it was a wind knot that I pulled tight but then noticed it’s a small blood knot (or something similar). It’s performed good so far but I would expect splice free for the money this stuff costs. Also it’s on a spinning reel but probably would’ve pissed me off if it was on one of my baitcasters.

 

Drinking and spooling reels?

 

I don't get it you have a 15 lb

Update for anyone interested, I've fished the Daiwa J-Braid I bought to replace it several times now, and am happy with it. Caught 22" reds and sail cats, no major tests on it yet but it does hold knots better than Sufix and is much stronger. I haven't broken the 30 lb, but the 15 lb broke at the knot at 17.5 lbs, so I'm satisfied.

Only downside to the J-Braid is that is it so supple it can wrap around the rod tip more easily if you get sloppy when popping plugs or lures and pull them out of the water. Not really a problem if you pay attention to you technique. No backlashes or wind knots, including casting into 15-20 mph winds yesterday.

I am confused you have a 15lb line and it breaks at 17.5lbs and you are satisfied ?
Why

 

I don't get it you have a 15 lb


I am confused you have a 15lb line and it breaks at 17.5lbs and you are satisfied ?
Why

Not sure I'm understanding your question. My original post was about Sufix 832 breaking at under 75% of its rating. I've switched to the Daiwa J-Braid and it is stronger than it is rated for and broke at the knot, which is to be expected, so I'm happy with it.

I'm not going for IFGA records where I want 15 lb line to be no stronger than 15 lbs, if that was where you were going. I like the casting distance and spool capacity of smaller line, but want all the strength I can get.

 

Anyone compared that Tony Pena knot to a uni-to-uni or FG knot?

 

It is stronger and smaller than a double uni, it is marginally larger and weaker than a properly tied FG knot. The diameter of the FG knot is 1x the leader plus 2x the braid. The diameter of the Pena knot is 2x the leader plus 1x the braid. The diameter of the double uni is 3x the leader plus 1x the braid.

My problem with the FG knot is that it is easy to not get the final weaves tight enough and it can slip off the leader, especially with hard fluro and slick braid. When I tie it at home, about 1/3 to 1/4 of the time I end up re-tying it because I feel it doesn't cinch tight enough. It also requires keeping tension on the knot and most guys admit it's challenging to tie on the water.

I can tie the Tony Pena knot in 30 seconds on the boat and know it's done correctly the first time. You can feel it go through the guides but it doesn't hang up on them or seem to work loose/wear down like the FG knot can. To me it is the best middle ground knot given all the trade offs, I'm surprised it's not more popular. I will sometimes tie a double uni if I get broken off and can see a bull red tailing 20 yards from me and my adrenaline is pumping, since it is quicker and more fool proof. It is not as strong or slim though, so as soon as the action is over, it's back to the Pena knot.

 

Every knot that runs through guides is going to weaken. With a few exceptions there really isn't a need to run leader through guides. If you avoid running your knots through guides, braid break offs even at the knot become rare.

 

I have zero issues with running a 20# mono/20# braid transition knot through my guides all day, every trip. I build custom rods and found that this works fine with recoil guides as long as you don’t go smaller than a 7 on running guides or they will break from repeated flexing. I may re-tie a new leader on before every trip but that’s it and I have not lost a fish or lure due to a weak knot. To keep a transition knot from running through the guides you would have to use such a short leader you may as well just tie the braid directly to the lure. Some guys use a foot to 18” of leader tied to a small swivel but that kills sensitivity and ends up getting reeled to the tip top and breaking the insert. I like a 4-5’ mono leader to add just a little shock absorption and keep from having to cut braid every time I change lures. I despise clips and quick connects and am a huge fan of a simple loop knot to my lure. Different strokes for different folks I guess.