At the end of the day, the foam just provides the spacer between two skins. The strength is in the skins not the foam. The only real exception would be the transom where you are hanging your motor. If your skins and your foam are in the correct proportion to the loads they will experience there is no problem. That is the essence of composites. Its intriguing to read the posts from people who insist things can't be done or must be done their way and the conviction with which they insist.
This is wrong, completely. The definition of a composite is made up of various parts or elements. Meaning they need to work together. The core/foam is not just a spacer between the skins, it becomes a structural member helping to support the whole. Like I said, I've done test layups with xps, I'm not just talking here. Could you make the skins thick enough so the foam core doesn't matter, yes, it's called making a mold. At which point it's better to remove the foam completely after the layup, so it's no longer a core element. Using foam as a form or mold is NOT composite building by definition because it is not working to help each other.
I just want to check. We are talking microskiffs here.......not offshore battlewagons smashing through inlets. Just want to make sure we are on the same page here........casue I'm thinking 14 foot one or two man 20hp microskiff on calm protected waters.
Yes we are talking lightweight skiffs here, which makes the coring more important then your "battlewagons". In an offshore boat you need thick glass to support the amount of distortion that can occure from the pressures exerted. A 1/2" thick skin of glass is not just 4x stronger then 1/8", the strength grows exponentially as the thickness increases. Heavy weight is an advantage offshore, but a major disadvantage in the shallows. If both hulls were running the same smooth waters then the glass could be thinner, but you need to account for the distortion that occurs when running on plane to the hull bottom. Your XPS foam and no peel strength and low frangibility. This means the distortion over time will make it fail and crumble. There have been many builders over the years who tried inferior products and the results showed. Rippled skins, seperate skins, cracks in the glass from lack of support.....
You are trying to equate skiffs to surfboards and I get it. A surfboard has so little pressure on the bottom that you can use just the foam with no skin. Any of us who remember spring break in cocoa beach or Lauderdale, remember that was the thing to do for visitors. They would buy Styrofoam surfboards or boogieboards, use them for the weekend and then toss them in the dumpster. Will they last, nope, that's why a good board costs so much, but they did function. You couldn't do that on a skiff, the amount of pressure per square inch increases dramatically with speed even over smooth waters. Thin fiberglass skins need proper and durable backing to deal with this. Thicker skins do not, but at that point you no longer have a lightweight skiff so what was the point?
I get it, look through my builds and you will see I have tried to reinvent the wheel from time to time. In most cases it seems a wheel rolls best when in the tried and true round shape. You have guys here advising you that have built boats personally, and professionally, using various composites. If you don't believe us then go do some test samples and see for yourself like some of us have. I'll predict your results based on my own. You will find out that using an inferior core means thicker glass, your boat will end up heavier and more expensive then if you spent the money on a proper core.