What line weight do you fish? The general rule is to match the rod to the line weight you choose. I personally fish 10# test line and have landed big fish on a 6-12 rod, although a 7'6" 8-17 is my go to. If you fish 15 or 20# test line, a heavier rod is probably better. It's possible a light rod wears out the fish, but it's certain a heavy rig will wear out the fisherman. If you're using artificials and blind casting all day long, you're arm and shoulder will appreciate the lighter setup.

 

I've been using 20lb on my heavier rods but would go with 10lb if I use a ML rod. You use 10lb on your 8-17?

 

I got rid of the 10-20 years ago since it's just too stiff and heavy, unless you are live baiting big fish with 20+lb braid. My 2 favs is a 7ft 8-17 with a 40/4000 series reel with 15lb braid and my lighter rod is a 7ft 6-12lb with a 30/3000 series reel with 10lb braid. I also just bought a 6'6" 6-12lb with a 2500 series reel and started out using 10lb braid, but next time I respool, it will have 8lb braid. I just love how light it feels and requires more skill and drag play to get the fish in. That rod brings me back to my ultra light days where we snook fished the flats with 6-8lb mono on rods that were meant for crappie fishing, using crappie jigs for lures. That's before I got into fly fishing. I don't go that light anymore, but those lighter setups are twice the fun as the heavy rods long rods you are using.

Also, I've been using the Hurricane Calico Jacks for the last 6yrs and love them! Hard to beat for $59. and that's coming from a gear head like me! Ha!

 

so here's what happened. I ordered a new Medium 8-17 pound rod from a florida company. They got it to me yesterday, very fast shipping but it is a ML 6-12 lb rod. beautiful rod, very nice work, feels great in the hand, super light but of course I haven't cast or fished it. feels so nice I was thinking about keeping it. I called yesterday and today, all I get is voice mail and they haven't returned my calls or responded to email. I need to make a decision but their lack of response is starting to irritate me enough that I may just be a pain in their ass out of spite.

 

The “action” of a rod is determined by where a rod flexes along the blank. Faster action rods flex mostly near the tip. Moderate action rods flex more near the middle of the blank. Slower action rods flex down into the butt section. Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance and still provide adequate hooksetting power. These actions are often used for applications that involve treble hooks, such as crankbaits and topwater lures or other reaction baits such as spinnerbaits. The 'bite' of a treble hook is not as deep as a big single worm hook and it is easier to tear the hook out of a strong fish, plus the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish's mouth before it fully engulfs it. The type of lure you use will usually determine the action of the rod you should use.

 

I understand action, it is the power of the rod I am concerned with. It is a 6-12 lb rod (ML) with a fast tip.

 

I've also noticed that not all but a lot of the higher end rods don't have line ratings just power/action. One of my favorite rods is a ML.

 

DBStoots, It was not my intent to dismiss your post, thanks for the input.

 

Ok. The power ratings are related to the line strength; as you noted, heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines. Another consideration in this regard--the water you're fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should use. Thick, heavy cover will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can tie you up. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard to see lines in order to get bit, meaning you will need a lighter power rod. I often switch from light or medium/light to medium or medium/heavy in the winter when fishing the mangrove shorelines of the backcountry.

 

But don't confuse stiffness with how fast a rod is. The lighter 6-12lb rods will flex more lower into the rod with the same pressure applied, due to wall thickness, or in other words, stiffness.

devrep, you'll also notice that going from 7'6" rod, down to a 7ft rod, you reduce the rod butt thickness and increase the tip speed. However, the whole rod as a whole flexes better and helps with casting. The total swing weight in hand is lighter, you'll get less wrist and forearm fatigue and you increase your fulcrum point. Back in the day before braid, going with a longer rod with mono to sling light baits were key to reaching weary fish that you couldn't approach too close with the boat. Today with these high tech, thin dia braids, you can throw light lures a country mile.

What I see people getting too hug up on is using too heavy of a braid. It comes down to an insecurity issue in one's ability to properly play out a fish, which takes skills and experience. What most people don't realize is the lb test strength of the braid they are using. Most 20lb braids will test out to around 30lbs. Most 15lb braids will test out to around 22lbs and most 10lb test braids will test out between 16-18lb test.

Grow some balls and don't be afraid to loose the fish! (just said that in a joking manner). Live on the edge like you don't care if you land the fish or not and you will find that your skill set will improve dramatically. With this mine set, over the years, I've probably taken 1000 good snook alone (forget everything else) on 6-10 test line (both mono and braid) on light short rods with a good drag and the notion to out wit the fish.



Think about it. You'll be glad you came over to the "Dark Side!"

Ted Haas

 

Most or all of the rods I have state power, line rating and action. I believe most line ratings are for mono though, some do state if it is braid.

 

I do mostly use a shorter (6 ft 8 in) Medium rod with 20lb braid and 30 lb leader when I'm in the mangroves. I've been switching to my 7 ft 6 in 8-17 lb when using a spoon on oyster bars and open areas. This is probably where I would use the 6-12 lb rod if I kept it.

 

The 12lb'r would be fun on an open flat but not where cover is concerned.

A 17lb'r M or ML with flex in the upper 1/3rd of the rod would be ideal. Too fast of action and you will tend to get knots in your braided line when using lighter baits.

Keep it and limit its use for smaller fish or send it back for what you originally wanted.

 

Don't hunt Doves with a Howitzer and don't hunt Grizzlies with a .22 !! Proper tools/knowledge and using the two to the best of our abilities will keep fishing a lot more enjoyable. Example: 2 1/2 ft depth on open flats, with ML spin 8lb braid 10lb leader,2500 reel = 14 Trout 14-23" and twin 29 1/2" Reds. If this were in the Mangroves, I go 15-20 braid & 20-30 leader with 4000 reel/medium rod. My 2 cents. I wish you all a great year out there !!!

 

Hey George, I want a pair of copper colored 29 1/2 inchers!

Now if I can only find a good dove field these days.....

 

I caught an 18" speck on a light rod a few years ago while fishing for white perch and it was a blast, but I wouldn't make a habit of it simply because there are too many bigger fish in the marsh. A medium light would make a great speck rod and it would be hella fun for reds up to 6#. I feel like it would take too long to wear out a bigger red. I like medium weight/fast action rods spooled with 12-15# test mono for throwing soft plastics to reds in the 8-15# range, so that is my go-to rod weight. I think 10# braid would work great on a medium. With 15# mono, I still have fish break off frequently due to oysters and I am not surf boarding the smaller reds, so I don't feel I am over-gunned. I save my medium heavy rod for heavy top waters like knuckleheads and bottom fishing live bait. It is too stiff for much else.

Nate

 

I'm using a 7' 4" teramar medium action rod and a 2500 sized reel loaded with 15 lb braid. The rod action is perfect and my little reel holds plenty of line for anything that comes my way in the backcountry.