INshore Flats fishing, Looking at all the fluro leaders out there toda... been using Seaguar Blue..
Whats your oreference, Blue, Pink, Gold. ?
Whats your oreference, Blue, Pink, Gold. ?
I tried countless times to use the inshore seagur in leaders, but I could never get knots to snug up right, I googled it and saw that the inshore doesn’t have the softer outside layer of the regular blue. Idk, it was a revelation for me, figured I’d pass it on. Obviously if it works for you, it’s way cheaper and that’s what I’d buy too.Inshore for me most of the year. Comes in 100 yard spools and is the same price as the blue label. Thin tippets aren't good with Snook and Tarpon because they'll wear through them faster.
I do go to premium leader like the gold or cortland premium fluoro for winter time redfish. They get spooky and I know that's all I'll be targeting.
Due to it's stiffness, tying knots with fluoro can be a little different. I've found that in general, I use less wraps when with fluoro. This, combined with a little spit for lube, helps the the stiffer fluoro cinch down tighter in most cases--especially true with loop knots.I tried countless times to use the inshore seagur in leaders, but I could never get knots to snug up right, I googled it and saw that the inshore doesn’t have the softer outside layer of the regular blue. Idk, it was a revelation for me, figured I’d pass it on. Obviously if it works for you, it’s way cheaper and that’s what I’d buy too.
I can't say whether or not Fluorocarbon makes a difference with really spooky fish in clear water like the keys or Caribbean, but I do know that I tie MUCH better knots in mono, I struggle to get knots Fluoro to seat well. I do pull test with a scale and on my normal leaders tied with Ande Mono I can pull to about 96-97% of rated break strength before failure, this is just using blood and improved blood knots, no bimini, that's about 14.4 pounds with 15 pound test. If you've ever seen Andy Mill's video of his practice of "lifting weights" with a fly rod, give it a try sometime. It's incredibly hard to apply 14 pounds of pressure with a fly rod.Do yourself a favor and forget about fluorocarbon leaders. Use regular mono…, cheaper by a mile, easier to tie, more playable, makes stronger knots, does not sink. Makes no difference to fish.
Yeah, fluoro is stiffer, and behaves a little different than softer/stretchier mono. I mentioned earlier in this thread that I tend to use less wraps when tying with fluoro to ensure that the knot cinches down and coils tightly. I mainly use the non-slip loop and uni knot for my terminal connections. What knots are you using that you're having difficulty tying with fluoro?I can't say whether or not Fluorocarbon makes a difference with really spooky fish in clear water like the keys or Caribbean, but I do know that I tie MUCH better knots in mono, I struggle to get knots Fluoro to seat well. I do pull test with a scale and on my normal leaders tied with Ande Mono I can pull to about 96-97% of rated break strength before failure, this is just using blood and improved blood knots, no bimini, that's about 14.4 pounds with 15 pound test. If you've ever seen Andy Mill's video of his practice of "lifting weights" with a fly rod, give it a try sometime. It's incredibly hard to apply 14 pounds of pressure with a fly rod.
Flourocarbon breaks at knots easier than mono in my limited experience.I typically use the blue label in 25lb and 30lb. I tried on some 15lb last week and broke it when I tightened the knot. I plan on checking it's breaking point with a fish scale because it seemed weak.
That's exactly what it did..... I'm going to have to try mono for leaders.Flourocarbon breaks at knots easier than mono in my limited experience.