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when I ground the non-skid off my yellow boat recently, I used a 6" air sander with 36 grit PSA discs. HB used some really hard grit and it was a fight between the grit and the sanding discs to see which would sand which off. you do need a 2 stage compressor to keep one of these going though.

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primer should be sanded before top coating too. very skeptical but not my skiff. I think if it was mine and it was that bad and I was going to keep it I would grind off the non-skid and do over with soft sand like I've been doing with my waterman. would be weird to see a SilverKing without the original but... I've seen about a half dozen of these boats and another bunch online and never seen whet you described. maybe they effed up at the factory.
24hr recoat window applies to their topcoat ober finish primer as well. So… as long as he primes it tonighy and gets that first coat of top coat on tomorrow morning it will actually end up being a chemical bond vs a mechanical bond.
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
24hr recoat window applies to their topcoat ober finish primer as well. So… as long as he primes it tonighy and gets that first coat of top coat on tomorrow morning it will actually end up being a chemical bond vs a mechanical bond.
Yup. As long as you work within the windows, you can do some amazing stuff. Spraying thin is going to be the key here if I go that route.
 
maybe pick a small spot and hit it with heavy then med grit buffing compound with a heavy wool pad. if it works then use a polishing compound like Finess-it and then a PTEF polish. you might go thru a bunch of pads though.
 
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