Yami 1994 9.9 2 stroke problem

Discussion in 'Outboard Maintenance' started by 0and2jr, Apr 9, 2011.

  1. 0and2jr

    0and2jr I Love microskiff.com!

    Thanks to anyone you won't be bored to read this and can help me out!!!

    Ok, so 2 days ago I took my boat out and the motor wouldn't start at all, so I just messed with the kill switch and tried again and it started. 

    It idled perfect and ran perfect without any problems and got me to my spot around 3-4 miles away. On my way back in on plane it just bogged down and shut of for no reason. I started it, it couldn't idle and when I gave it gas it made a pinging noise, had around 1/2 the power it should, and kept stalling.

    But, if I had it at around half throttle, it still ran bad and made the noise, but it didn't stall so I made it back the ramp fine.

    Now is where it gets weird to me.... I tried flushing it, same thing, couldn't idle, made the noise and all that. So for some reason I took apart the kill switch and disconnected it so it wasn't a factor anymore and it ran perfect, no noise at all.

    So, I greased up the switch and put it together and went out yesterday. It ran perfect for a little bit, and then started the same crap again, so I took of the kill switch again but it didn't solve it this time....

    So I got back to the ramp on half throttle and I still cant get it to run normal without the noise ... Ive checked the fuel lines and filter, compression was 110 on top cylinder, 120 on bottom....

    Any ideas???? Electrical? Fuel??
    Thanks again!!!
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    On a 17 year old outboard, it would not surprise me if the cdi module was acting up.
    Time to do an ignition system diagnosis. Start by doing a visual check of components
    specifically looking for separation between the casings and potting sealant on the cdi and coils.
    Any separation will allow moisture to enter the component and cause a short.
    Not that big a deal to do, just have to be thorough.

  3. 0and2jr

    0and2jr I Love microskiff.com!

    I just did all what you said Brett and everything looks normal to me... Any other ways to check?
  4. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    No visible separation on components, move to next step...
    Disconnect fuel line from outboard, if not already done.
    Remove both sparkplugs from powerhead, you don't want the engine to start.
    Insert  plugs back into spark plug wires, but not back into motor.
    I use a metal welders clamp to lock onto the engine block as a ground
    and rest the spark plugs, still in their wires, in the handle of the clamp,
    touching metal to metal as shown below.
    (hold it in your hands if you want an electrifying moment)  ;)
    Then pull the starter cord to check for hot blue sparks at each plug.
    Better to do when almost dark as it makes it easier to see the sparks.
    Make sure the kill switch is NOT activated!
  5. 0and2jr

    0and2jr I Love microskiff.com!

    Well I found my problem, I took apart my carb to clean it again, and the little arm that the pin goes through to hold the float broke.... Since it's attached to the actual carb I'm going to have to buy a new carb...... Any ideas where to look to buy just the metal cast of the carb? since I have all the parts I just need the body of the carb.
  6. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Glad to hear it wasn't electronics, but snapping an ear off the carb body...what a pain.

    Here's a place to start looking, at least for part numbers
    check prices elsewhere and maybe at a marine salvage yard for used carbs.