Wiring ?????

Discussion in 'Power it up with Electronics' started by Morgan_Duett, Nov 19, 2013.

  1. Morgan_Duett

    Morgan_Duett Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure what I should do, I have one battery runing my electric start motor and trolling motor I'm gonna have a bilge, nav lights, cockpit lights, and stereo all ran to it too. How should I do the wiring? Should I have a switch panel for the lights and bilge? Do I need fuses what's the easiest, safest way to do this thanks.
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    If you have no experience with wiring or calculating circuit loads
    I'm going to recommend you pay someone to do it for you. But if you
    really want to do it yourself, then you need to learn the basics of
    matching wire size to amperage load, circuit length, making secure
    solid connections, color coding and battery basics. Otherwise you'll
    probably end up in trouble that could put you in danger on the water.
     

  3. Gramps

    Gramps Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time

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  4. Morgan_Duett

    Morgan_Duett Well-Known Member

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    Should I have a seperate battery for my trolling motor?
     
  5. Gramps

    Gramps Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time

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    It isn't required to have a dedicated battery, all of my boats have used a dual purpose battery for motor & TM. Some like a separate tm battery for weight placement or to prevent running down the starting battery.
     
  6. Morgan_Duett

    Morgan_Duett Well-Known Member

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    Interstate makes a deep cycle/starting is it worth it to pick one of these up? Are they good dual purpose batts. ?
     
  7. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Yeah Gramps, there's a url redirect imbedded in the newboatbuilders.com forum software.
    Latest in a long line of hacks directed at forums hosted on poorly maintained servers.
    Serious problem lately on the cheaper hosting services with no budget for website support.

    I deleted the link.
     
  8. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    Engine wiring is typically self-contained in the wiring harness.

    The bilge should have a fused feed direct to the automatic float switch from the battery and a manual feed through a manual switch with preferably a circuit breaker.

    Trolling motor should have a breaker right on the battery for that circuit.

    I prefer to have one large power feed daisy chained to individual dash mounted circuit breakers that then feed individual dash mounted switches for anchor light, nav light, bilge, bait well, cockpit lights, etc all mounted on one front removable panel. This eliminates the need for a power distribution panel. (The panel is replaced by the wiring that daisy chains to each breaker.) Breakers are better because you can reset them. It is also much easier to maintain and/or repair down the road.

    The main concern is providing a large enough wire to provide the main feed to all the breakers. Add up the actual load for all your electronics and size the main feed wire and breaker for 25% over that. (NOT the breaker sizes) For reliability and extra short circuit protection, feed both ends of the daisy chain. Then if for some reason you have a bad connection in the chain, power will still feed from the other side.

    Actual loads and recommended short circuit protection is typically included in product specifications.

    For things like trim tabs and the stereo I would put them on circuit breakers too. Fit them in with your other switches if you have room, else wire tie the breakers under the console with enough slack to work on if you have problems.

    The place that gets ugly quick is where you connect all the negatives. These are NOT on the breaker/switch panel. Distribution panels make this easier, but you can accomplish the same with ring lugs stacked on one nut and bolt. Then wire tie that into your wiring bundle and you don't have to mount a bus bar that will be a pain to get to forever.

    Look at the pictures of switch panels on Maverick's websites and you can see how they did it.

    All they have is a battery switch and the main fuses under the console. Everything else is on the back of the switch panel that removes from the outside.

    http://www.maverickboats.com/boats/mirage-17-hpx-v/#gallery

    There are many that like power distribution panels, and there are many that are sold. I'm just not a fan of them because I feel they put too many eggs in one basket that is usually hard to get to and impossible to repair.

    I fished with one battery for TM and starting for quite a while. Then I went to Flamingo and realized that was too risky on multi-day, backwater trips.
     
  9. Dillusion

    Dillusion devilray snob

    Everyone in here is making it way too complicated.

    Buy a 100ft roll of 14ga tinned red and black wire, buy a fuse panel with toggles or a fused switch panel, then wire everything up and place the correct size fuse for each item whever you hook it up to.

    No real science to it. Things like a TM require a thermal breaker near the 12V QD plug, and if you want to wire up your setup super-dooper-correctly you can do Battery -> Switch -> Thermal breaker -> fuse panel -> toggles. That's it.
     
  10. Morgan_Duett

    Morgan_Duett Well-Known Member

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    Ok what are some good battery switches and fuse panels to buy?
     
  11. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    While it may be that easy for you now, I still remember some of your first posts asking about wiring questions.
    Don't forget what it was like not knowing anything.
    We took our time and explained it to you and now look what your capable of ;)
     
  12. Morgan_Duett

    Morgan_Duett Well-Known Member

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    Would this be a fused switch panel that I would run to my thermal breaker then battery switch then battery?
    http://m.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_802965_-1__true?color=Multi&N=635908473
     
  13. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    Can't say I looked real hard, nor have personal experience with it, but this one looks better for less

    http://www.walmart.com/ip/16651512?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3&adid=22222222227000841539&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=39887223790&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=34450541350&veh=sem#Product+Reviews
     
  14. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Not to offend anyone, but I would stay away from a lot of those types of toggle panels and switches. I've used them over the years and they always failed me.

    If you want a super simple fused switch panel to wire up then check out the blue sea ones. I love mine!

    http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-WeatherDeck-Resistant/dp/B000K2MBM8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1385044224&sr=8-9&keywords=blue+sea+boat+switch+panel
     
  15. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    X2
     
  16. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    Those are sweet. That guard keeps the toggles from poking you in the knee caps.

    Have you or cut runner ever tried the ones with breakers? Not sure how I feel about that backlighting though.

    http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-4378-Waterproof-WeatherDeck-Circuit-Breaker-Panel-12-Volt-DC-_p_1167.html
     
  17. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    No, at the time when I bought mine the breakered ones were much more money, and really I don't mind the fuses. The one with fuses even houses an extra fuse inside in case of a blow out. I think mine is backlit, but it's not very bright. I have the white 4 switch version currently.
     
  18. Morgan_Duett

    Morgan_Duett Well-Known Member

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    I've ran my motor, trolling motor, and nav lights all on one battery before with no fuses or breaker. Just adding a bilge and stereo I need fuses/breaker?
     
  19. Morgan_Duett

    Morgan_Duett Well-Known Member

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    Ok forget my last post I'm gonna get the blue sea fuse box and a blue sea breaker, question? What size amp breaker do I need?
     
  20. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    Depends on what the breaker is used to supply power to.

    If you're thinking you need it to feed the fuse panel, that is not necessary. Just make sure you keep the wire from the battery switch to the fuse panel protected from damage.
     
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