Wiring Diagram QC Please

Discussion in 'Power it up with Electronics' started by not2shabby, Jul 3, 2017.

  1. not2shabby

    not2shabby Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to attempt to tackle rewiring my skiff. Tired of electrical issues and I need to sort out the previous owner's decade of random upgrades and mods.

    I'm asking for a quality control (QC) check on my diagram. Shoot holes in it and help me avoid issues in the future. Any feedback is more than welcome! I really appreciate the help.

    Apologies for the image resolution. The original diagram is accessible on my google drive here:

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_oeE_LufFakNHF0eE1MbGJwT2s

    [​IMG]

    **I strangely feel the need to write a disclaimer on here. Do not use this wiring diagram to wire your boat. I am not a professional electrician and I know little to nothing about electrical systems. This diagram is posted for review purposes only.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2017
  2. Smackdaddy53

    Smackdaddy53 Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!

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    I think you need 50A fuse/breaker within a foot of each positive battery terminal.
     
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  3. jmrodandgun

    jmrodandgun Well-Known Member

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    Not too shabby, but what are you doing about a charging circuit?
     
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  4. not2shabby

    not2shabby Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Mac. The little maroon ovals are supposed to be 50A breakers. Do I need to ADD one between the starting battery and the switch or can I move the one between the switch and the motor to upstream of the switch?
     
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  5. not2shabby

    not2shabby Well-Known Member

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    Great question. The skiff currently has a 3 bank charger installed in one of the bow hatches. I hadn't planned on changing that wiring/configuration. It's a good charger, I think.
     
  6. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    That's a pretty good diagram.

    You need a full time power feed to your bilge pump auto float switch from the line side of the battery switch with an in-line fuse.

    Personally I would NOT waste time and money wiring up one of your TM batteries as a back up for cranking. If you carry the right tools you can move a TM battery if you have to. Or just carry jumper cables.

    Lastly I would add a large post terminal for landing all negatives. (Don't use the battery terminal as a junction point.)
     
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  7. permitchaser

    permitchaser I Love Skinny Water

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    I like your diagram, look simple but you haven't seen under my console. Spaghetti of wires and a fuse box. As long as the motor starts, lights work, pumps work and GPS/depth finder I am good to go. But some day I'd like to change it to a neater plastic fuse box
    Good luck with your project. Post pictures so I can decide if I want to tackle it
     
    not2shabby likes this.
  8. Smackdaddy53

    Smackdaddy53 Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!

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    Between the cranking battery and battery switch. Just move the other one that's coming off the right side of your battery switch.
    I am no wiring expert either but I'm pretty sure you need a fuse on the positive cable within a short distance of the terminal. There is a formula somewhere.
     
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  9. jmrodandgun

    jmrodandgun Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure about fusing the starter feed line? Doesn't seem necessary and starters draw far more than 50 amps.
     
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  10. Smackdaddy53

    Smackdaddy53 Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!

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    There is a marine wiring website that explains it all. You are probably right because I looked at mine and there is no fuse on the cranking lead.
     
  11. not2shabby

    not2shabby Well-Known Member

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    That's a good thought. Right now, skiff has a 50A breaker in the positive feed from the starting battery and it trips all the time. I thought it was a bad breaker, but perhaps it's just in the wrong place. Plenty of mysteries and gremlins in this new-to-me boat.

    In the case that the 50A breaker on the starting circuit can be eliminated (I'll do a bit more research), then the rest of the wiring would be protected by the fuses in the block. The TM would have its own breaker on the 24v wiring.

    @MariettaMike I agree that wiring the TM #1 battery as a backup starting battery is probably not worth the effort. It would be a relatively long run of 6ga wire that I can eliminate. Thanks for the great feedback. I'll get a large post terminal, too.
     
  12. jmrodandgun

    jmrodandgun Well-Known Member

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  13. not2shabby

    not2shabby Well-Known Member

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    Parts have started arriving. Now I just need some time.

    Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block - 5026
    Blue Sea e-Series On/Off Battery Switch
    Blue Sea 187 Series Circuit Breakers

    Updated the diagram and decided to NOT wire in one of the TM batteries as a backup for starting. I relocated the breaker - no longer showing it on the starting circuit. It will go very near the battery on the 6ga positive wire between the battery switch and the fuse block. I decided against a separate busbar for negative and bought the fuse block that has 12 terminals for landing negatives.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_oeE_LufFakNHF0eE1MbGJwT2s (best viewed in excel)

    Now just waiting for tinnedmarinewire.com to start back up after their vacation so I can order wiring and terminals. I'll make sure to take some photos along the way.
     
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  14. permitchaser

    permitchaser I Love Skinny Water

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    I don't have excel on my kindle so I could not see it. Probably better cause I wouldn't understand it. I have a breaker on my 24v TM battery. I don't think I have one on my cranking battery, don't think you need one
    Good luck with your wiring.
    I'm so bad at wiring when I pulled the transducer wire through the hole that carries all the wires from the back, I knocked out the lights and bilge pumps and had to take it to my mechanic to fix it
     
  15. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    Good choice on the fuse block.

    Using heat shrink ring lugs for all your wiring connections to the fuse panel is worth the extra effort. Just don't make a jig for the first foot of wire near the panel, then butt splice on an ass load of slack wire that is hidden away with tie wraps under the dash/gunnel like some builders do. (Butt splices add four failure points per circuit.)
     
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  16. not2shabby

    not2shabby Well-Known Member

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    A few additional questions I've come up with while digging in and trying to understand the current wiring on the skiff:

    1. How important do you think it is to have lighted rocker switches? The switches on the console panel each have a little light that illuminates when the switch is "on" but that requires each switch to have a complete circuit with the battery instead of just being a pass-through for a positive feed. I could eliminate a lot of jumpers/terminals/heat shrink if I decide that I don't need those little lights. Thoughts? Resale implications?

    2. Dielectric grease on terminals after making good connections or no? I was planning to crimp, heat shrink, and torque all of my connections and then lightly coat each exposed lug/terminal with dielectric grease. Is this worth it? Obviously none of my connections will be in wet spaces, but several are in very HUMID spaces.

    3. New switch panel? The panel that came on this 2005 has the little fuse breakers built in, so there is a little push-button reset next to each switch and a whole ton of wiring on the backside to jump each little breaker to the switch. Since I plan on using a fuse block, I will eliminate all of these breakers from the circuits, but would kind of like to eliminate them all together...but that leaves holes in the front of my switch plate. I could try to find small stainless bolts to fit each hole or replace the switch panel completely. Can I make a custom switch panel? Buy one? Is either worth the effort/cost? I was actually thinking teak or purpleheart (with lots and lots of coats of polyurethane) would be interesting.

    4. Horn. My skiff has a horn. I'm super tempted to take it off and eliminate one more switch with associated wiring. Open to feedback on this one.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017 at 2:45 PM
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