wireing up a small console

Discussion in 'Power it up with Electronics' started by jschilli, Aug 24, 2012.

  1. jschilli

    jschilli I Love microskiff.com!

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    Need help making a game plane for making the electrical set up in my hobie power skiff which currently has no baseline of components.
    I have a battery, GPS/fish finder, VHF radio, Hyde. Jack plate, nav lights and bilge that need incorporated.
    I'm not sure about switches, breakers, etc. I just know I can't run them all straight to the battery.

    Pics would be a great help!
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <


  3. fsae99

    fsae99 I Love microskiff.com!

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    http://bluesea.com/category/83/105
     
  4. jschilli

    jschilli I Love microskiff.com!

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    Thank you everyone!
    So this is my current grocery list:
    Fuse box w/ terminal block
    http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/products/5026
    Battery Switch
    http://bluesea.com/category/78/1/products/6006
    Still looking into above deck panels, but will probably go with the Weather deck switchs.
    If there is anything else anyone can recommend please do!
     
  5. jschilli

    jschilli I Love microskiff.com!

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    My only other questions is with the Blue Sea fuse box, my jack plate requires a 50 Amp Fuse. Should that be a separate resettable fuse or not.
     
  6. Creek Runner

    Creek Runner Well-Known Member

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    Yes same thing for the trolling motor if you have one, about 6" off the battery.
     
  7. jschilli

    jschilli I Love microskiff.com!

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    Also i was thinking of using starboard or similar to adhere to the inside of the console and fasten my breaker panel and solenoids to it. Is that acceptable?
    Should i be running 4ga or 8ga from the battery to the breaker box?
     
  8. fsae99

    fsae99 I Love microskiff.com!

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    Just to make sure I'm clear, the motor should always hook directly to the battery (Batt Switch is ok) not to bus bars or breaker box.

    8 should be fine if your battery is in the console near the breaker. If you have a setup where the battery is more than 5ft in one direction I'd go with 6. 6 should handle anything you have wired box from anywhere on the boat.
     
  9. jschilli

    jschilli I Love microskiff.com!

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    Thankfully and sadly my motor is pull start. So no power cable being ran to the motor. Battery is located in the center console.
    Thankfully and sadly my motor is pull start. So no power cable being ran to the motor. Battery is located in the center console.
    The more I read the more i wonder.
    If i was to use a resettable breaker panel like the one from Blue Sea Systems. What’s the point of the Fuse block?
    All big devices like jackplate & trolling motor would require a separate 50+ amp fuse/breaker. Not tied to the block or switch panel.
    Fuse block would be useful for non switched items, if I had them.
     
  10. fsae99

    fsae99 I Love microskiff.com!

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    http://bluesea.com/category/105/27/productline/119 is really what I was thinking you would use. Switches and fuses in one neat little package. This would allow you to install the proper size fuse for what ever the switch is attached to.

    So a nice clean install would be a 8 gauge wires (since it is so short of a run 10 gauge should be plenty) from Bat + and - sides to their own covered bus bars (Never hook +and - to same bus bar). http://bluesea.com/products/2720. See last paragraph to use master battery switch.

    All the - wires from any accessories (GPS,Bait pumps, nav lights) would be connected to the - side of bus bar.

    All the positive wires from from any accessories (GPS,Bait pumps, nav lights) would be hooked to the switch panel. http://bluesea.com/category/105/27/productline/119

    The switch panel is hooked to the + side of the bus bar at appropriate terminal.  This is where any accessories (GPS,Bait pumps, nav lights) get + from. 10 gauge should be plenty for this short run.

    If you want the switches to light up you need to also connect - to appropriate terminal on switch panel to - side of bus bar. http://www.go2marine.com/docs/mfr/bluesea/198878F.pdf

    If you want to have a battery switch then connect TM, Jack plate, and + bus bar with to one side and + battery wire to other side. This should leave you with just 4 wires hooked to the battery. Tm, jackplate, and - bus wire on negative side. And one positive wire to battery switch, I'd make this 4-6 gauge.

    You are right the fuse panel is used to decouple the fuses from their switches.
     
  11. jschilli

    jschilli I Love microskiff.com!

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    "So a nice clean install would be a 8 gauge wires (since it is so short of a run 10 gauge should be plenty) from Bat + and - sides to their own covered bus bars (Never hook +and - to same bus bar). http://bluesea.com/products/2720. See last paragraph to use master battery switch."

    This links me to a dual bus bar, Is that acceptable?
    Or each have their own seperate?
     
  12. fsae99

    fsae99 I Love microskiff.com!

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    The dual bus bar is really 2 different bus bars one for positive and one for negative. They are one mounting block so less holes to drill.

    Nothing wrong with to independent covered bus bars either.
     
  13. jschilli

    jschilli I Love microskiff.com!

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    Gotcha. Thanks so much!
     
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