Dedicated To The Smallest Of Skiffs banner
4581 - 4600 of 4682 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
@Clamfoot That is definitely a reel looking shrimp! Sorry that I wasn’t clear with my statement. By natural, I was referring to not a fleeing shrimp. I’ve been trying to figure out how to have the horn of a non fleeing shrimp stay pointy after a recent thread on here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
View attachment 182141 View attachment 182142 View attachment 182143 View attachment 182144 Recipe:
SL12S size 4 or 6
B10S size 4 or 6 users preference
Dark olive chicone or sightcast bead chain eyes
Olive brown 1.5 or 1.75 Foxy Brush UV or NonUV
Hot Orange .75 Shrimp Dub brush
Root beer Palmer chenille
Olive pseudo hair
Start with the normal game, olive 140 or 210 thread, attach bead chain eyes 1.5ish eye lengths away from the eye, add pseudo hair tail, start at the back with 3-4 wraps of shrimp dub brush, then 3-4 wraps of root beer chenille, finish with olive brown foxy brush to in front of the bead chain. @Loogie
Many thanks! Very nice and effective pattern!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
love that! What’s the body material under the craft fur?
TXF
The body is just trimmed craft fur in a dubbing loop

Size 2-4 hook.
From the bend working up/back
  1. Short barred mallard flank barbs
  2. A little longer white marabou barbs
  3. A little longer brown/gold/tan marabou barbs (most any fluffy feather barbs will work for steps 2-3, just make #1 is a stiffer darker barb)
  4. A little longer bunch of white fiber. The fiber should be on the stiff side as it will act as a support for the craft fur curve. I use brushed-out white poly cord.
  5. A dark brown dubbing loop bump at the base of the fiber at the start of the bend.
  6. Tie in eyes, they should flair out on the dubbing bump
  7. Tie on antennae of your choice. This one has metal gold flash. long peacock hurls look good as well.
  8. spin a 3-4in dubbing loop with tan craft fur fibers. I keep the fibers long, making a brush, and keep the underfur to help create density. Palmer it back to just before the hook eye.
  9. Trim down the craft fur body leaving the longer fibers at the head, trim to expose the eyes. trim short on the back, medium on the bottom.
  10. Cut a small bunch of extra select craft fur (1/4-5/16 wide when flattened) and tie in on top at the hook eye.
  11. Add weed guard.
  12. Apply UV as noted and spread in with a bodkin taking care to preserve the curve of the craft fur up the fiber.
  13. For pretty work, before adding the weed guard, heat up a bodkin or pin and on the bottom/sides of the fly melt into the craft fur 2 or 3 lines port to starboard and one down the middle on the bottom. Color the melted lines with a fine tip brown marker.
Let me know how you make out with it.
 

·
Registered
Ankona Native SUV 17
Joined
·
124 Posts
TXF
The body is just trimmed craft fur in a dubbing loop

Size 2-4 hook.
From the bend working up/back
  1. Short barred mallard flank barbs
  2. A little longer white marabou barbs
  3. A little longer brown/gold/tan marabou barbs (most any fluffy feather barbs will work for steps 2-3, just make #1 is a stiffer darker barb)
  4. A little longer bunch of white fiber. The fiber should be on the stiff side as it will act as a support for the craft fur curve. I use brushed-out white poly cord.
  5. A dark brown dubbing loop bump at the base of the fiber at the start of the bend.
  6. Tie in eyes, they should flair out on the dubbing bump
  7. Tie on antennae of your choice. This one has metal gold flash. long peacock hurls look good as well.
  8. spin a 3-4in dubbing loop with tan craft fur fibers. I keep the fibers long, making a brush, and keep the underfur to help create density. Palmer it back to just before the hook eye.
  9. Trim down the craft fur body leaving the longer fibers at the head, trim to expose the eyes. trim short on the back, medium on the bottom.
  10. Cut a small bunch of extra select craft fur (1/4-5/16 wide when flattened) and tie in on top at the hook eye.
  11. Add weed guard.
  12. Apply UV as noted and spread in with a bodkin taking care to preserve the curve of the craft fur up the fiber.
  13. For pretty work, before adding the weed guard, heat up a bodkin or pin and on the bottom/sides of the fly melt into the craft fur 2 or 3 lines port to starboard and one down the middle on the bottom. Color the melted lines with a fine tip brown marker.
Let me know how you make out with it.
Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
@Clamfoot That is definitely a reel looking shrimp! Sorry that I wasn’t clear with my statement. By natural, I was referring to not a fleeing shrimp. I’ve been trying to figure out how to have the horn of a non fleeing shrimp stay pointy after a recent thread on here
@Copahee.
I've attempted to make forward-facing shrimp a bunch of times. I wouldn't post pics unless we all needed a good laugh.
Been thinking about adapting the pattern that I tie in a forward facing form.
Next time I get the itch, I'll try using a jig hook but bending it almost as a bent back. This should allow the hook eye to stick out of the top of the nose like one of those plastic voodoo shrimp things.
This will also allow for the nose to be coated with Softex, UV Thin or UV Flex. and hopefully, create a good profile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
182717
Tied up some seaducers and blurple cracks after my blind fishing redfish thread. The bottom to seaducers have rattles in a mylar piping sheath off the back. The blurples have integral rattles. Had to throw in a light weight crack in tan and pink for good measure. Red Krystal flash on the seaducers because the Red flake DOA shrimp is killer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
View attachment 182717 Tied up some seaducers and blurple cracks after my blind fishing redfish thread. The bottom to seaducers have rattles in a mylar piping sheath off the back. The blurples have integral rattles. Had to throw in a light weight crack in tan and pink for good measure. Red Krystal flash on the seaducers because the Red flake DOA shrimp is killer!
Nice bugs Tanker
What neighborhood/region are you fishing?
I've been thinking about doing some mylar rattles as well. Is there a tip on tying them on and keeping the fly balanced? It seems like that kind of moving weight might lead to the thing flying funny and helicoptering if it's not done right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Nice bugs Tanker
What neighborhood/region are you fishing?
I've been thinking about doing some mylar rattles as well. Is there a tip on tying them on and keeping the fly balanced? It seems like that kind of moving weight might lead to the thing flying funny and helicoptering if it's not done right.
Thanks! I fish in the Poquoson, VA area mostly. Haven't tried the rattle flies yet, just trying a different way of tying them in. Tying on the shank just makes it so bulky, which is fine on the crack flies but rough on the seaducers. Will post up how they work.
 

·
Registered
Ankona Native SUV 17
Joined
·
124 Posts
Nice ty.
I like how it doesn't need a pair of lead eyes to always land right side up.
Will the beads click when the fly moves?
Thank you! I am not sure if they will click because of the body material interfering but I am hoping they will. I wanted to keep the body material a little longer to try and soften the water landing.
 
4581 - 4600 of 4682 Posts
Top