Wet Sanding
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7,230 Posts
That's a very broad question. Maybe post up a lot more info. Like what you are wetsanding? Why are you wet sanding it? What coating is it?.....pics help too
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207 Posts
There was a really good thread about this a year or two ago in the boat yard basics section. With some digging using the search function I’m sure it’s easily discoverable
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4,737 Posts
Please make a point of doing a bit of research before getting started... once you’re sure about what you intend to accomplish all I ever needed was wet or dry sandpaper, a hard rubber sanding block and a small water bucket. For my purposes I started at 220 grit paper, then 400, and ended with 600 grit.
Hope this helps
Aren’t boats fun?
Hope this helps
Aren’t boats fun?
G
Guest
·That one may be too far gone to bring back with wetsanding and buffing.
What should I do then.
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7,230 Posts
I agree with Boatbrains here, that looks like a lot more damage then just a light oxidization. You might be looking at a full paint job. Which can be about the same work as wet sanding and buffing, just a bit more money.
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3,066 Posts
Fish it! Fish slime and blood will make it look better.
G
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·Depends on what you are wanting out of it and how much you are willing to spend. It looks like a prime candidate for a paint job. Look in to roll n tip!
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12,342 Posts
Rustoleum
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7,230 Posts
Yep, that will do. Interlux brightsides goes on smoother and lasts a little longer I think, but the rustoleum I have on my decks has had up well for the price.
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4,737 Posts
Before you take our word for it... make a point of finding a decent fiberglass shop ( or shop that paints over fiberglass...) and ask them to look at that hull... As noted it may be time for a paint job - but only an up close inspection will tell the tale. Water sanding out a faded or discolored hull is feasible (and if you do it by hand the way I did a baby SeaCraft all those years ago... a lot of work) - and still more to do after you get tired the first day.... since gel coat is usually thick enough to allow you to remove the entire surface - and still leave new looking gelcoat in place... The trick with water sanding is to be very careful with corners or any sharp edges or angles... These kinds of places allow you to remove too much gelcoat (another of those "ask me how I know" moments...) allowing the fiberglass to show through.... not good!
At any rate if you can, get a pro to give it a look. You might be able to water sand that old hull out - or it might really need to be properly sanded, prepped and painted... Either way it will mean work on your part (or money...).
Good luck and post up a pic which ever way you go...
At any rate if you can, get a pro to give it a look. You might be able to water sand that old hull out - or it might really need to be properly sanded, prepped and painted... Either way it will mean work on your part (or money...).
Good luck and post up a pic which ever way you go...
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2,716 Posts
During the 13 years I owned my Bayshore custom flats boat I re-did the teak 3 times. After taping and brushing on multiple coats of Bristol finish in a single day before letting it dry for several days, I starting wet sanding with 400 grit before graduating to 600, 800, 1000 and 1,200. By hand. Toe rail, helm pod and platform toe rails. After that it was hours and hours of polishing using 3M Finessee It compound. By hand. Yes boats are fun. I also ate a lot of fried chicken and drank a ton of beers in the process.
Braden123, paint it and go fishing.
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