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Welder/build-out advice
I've been thinking on building a rugged flats boat (not technical poling skiff) for the fishing I do (swamp/backcountry/west coast rocks/oysters). I look at the all the options out there, and see very expensive custom-made aluminum boats versus very basic alumimum boats. I'm looking for something like a Seaark 18- or 20- footer. Layout on those are fine, but would prefer a custom console similar to what you see on on a Young's Gulfshore. Problem is, Seaark won't do that - nor would they sell it sans console so I could have one installed to my specs. That leaves me with buying a bare hull and having someone build out the rod lockers and console.
Any recommendations for someone who would do that and any idea of the ballpark cost? (in the Central FL area)
Any recommendations for someone who would do that and any idea of the ballpark cost? (in the Central FL area)
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Have you taken a look at Timber Creek boats, Uncle J Customs and Prodigy? I have found their pricing in line with Seaark and it is built completely to your spec.
https://www.fishonfabrications.com/
Dawson does good work, but it is just north of Atlanta. He knows his stuff, bought hatch lids from him by mail. He offers DIY parts, hatches, lids, boxes, etc. They could be installed by the dealer or your shop. If I buy a production hull, it will be from a near-by dealer and then do as you suggest in the op. But modifications may void the warranty if not done at the dealer.
Weldbilt 1648 fabrication was set up by Mike Watson Welding, east TN. Pics in for sale forum here. Price was about $1800, he didn't install floor and I provided lockable water-tight storage box that saved me $400.
He installed 2 hatch lids, installed water-tight storage box, jet outboard rigging, transom splash guard, built trolling motor mount with electric plug and gps, under deck fuel tanks and line.
His custom standard prop tunnel 1860 is only $600 more than the seaark I was recently priced. More freeboard, .190 bottom and .125 sides.
Seaark is about $8K my quote local shop. That's with built in fuel tank, tiller, coated floor, no motor.
Dawson does good work, but it is just north of Atlanta. He knows his stuff, bought hatch lids from him by mail. He offers DIY parts, hatches, lids, boxes, etc. They could be installed by the dealer or your shop. If I buy a production hull, it will be from a near-by dealer and then do as you suggest in the op. But modifications may void the warranty if not done at the dealer.
Weldbilt 1648 fabrication was set up by Mike Watson Welding, east TN. Pics in for sale forum here. Price was about $1800, he didn't install floor and I provided lockable water-tight storage box that saved me $400.
He installed 2 hatch lids, installed water-tight storage box, jet outboard rigging, transom splash guard, built trolling motor mount with electric plug and gps, under deck fuel tanks and line.
His custom standard prop tunnel 1860 is only $600 more than the seaark I was recently priced. More freeboard, .190 bottom and .125 sides.
Seaark is about $8K my quote local shop. That's with built in fuel tank, tiller, coated floor, no motor.
http://www.akmccallumco.com/store-console.htm
They have a multitude of parts on the shelf. Will ship, been in their shop.
They have a multitude of parts on the shelf. Will ship, been in their shop.
Uncle J's in Morgan city la will build to ur specifications / drawing...also had kits completed all tacked together n ready to complete welds.I've been thinking on building a rugged flats boat (not technical poling skiff) for the fishing I do (swamp/backcountry/west coast rocks/oysters). I look at the all the options out there, and see very expensive custom-made aluminum boats versus very basic alumimum boats. I'm looking for something like a Seaark 18- or 20- footer. Layout on those are fine, but would prefer a custom console similar to what you see on on a Young's Gulfshore. Problem is, Seaark won't do that - nor would they sell it sans console so I could have one installed to my specs. That leaves me with buying a bare hull and having someone build out the rod lockers and console.
Any recommendations for someone who would do that and any idea of the ballpark cost? (in the Central FL area)
I didn't know they made anything other than mud boats. Very interesting, looks like a fun site to browse. Wonder how they will compare price wise to just grabbing a cheap tin hull and local welder though. I'm not looking for fancy. I'm looking for something I can drag across oysters, limestone and then crash into a cypress tree the next day.
Not sure if you would be interested but, I will be putting my 18 Lowe Rough neck up for sale next week.I've been thinking on building a rugged flats boat (not technical poling skiff) for the fishing I do (swamp/backcountry/west coast rocks/oysters). I look at the all the options out there, and see very expensive custom-made aluminum boats versus very basic alumimum boats. I'm looking for something like a Seaark 18- or 20- footer. Layout on those are fine, but would prefer a custom console similar to what you see on on a Young's Gulfshore. Problem is, Seaark won't do that - nor would they sell it sans console so I could have one installed to my specs. That leaves me with buying a bare hull and having someone build out the rod lockers and console.
Any recommendations for someone who would do that and any idea of the ballpark cost? (in the Central FL area)
Dave built a very nice boat, I would look into his build thread!Not sure if you would be interested but, I will be putting my 18 Lowe Rough neck up for sale next week. View attachment 97318
Again, I wouldn’t do anything without speaking with Tyler at Timber Creek or Jason at Uncle J’s. Both are owners respectively. Their styles are slightly different but both top notch. Fully custom. No spec boats at all. You chose the gauge of aluminum for bottom, transom etc. side heights, deck lengths, type/size of console, any color imaginable. They can do a bare bones minimalist skiff or dress it up with bells and whistles.
Thanks, Smack,Dave built a very nice boat, I would look into his build thread!
It’s all good, the skiff will sell fast I’m sure. The reason I haven’t listed it yet is, my work schedule has been crazy. 60 plus hours a week right now and I have home projects I’m trying to finish up like painting the house etc.
Just a few more weeks and I will be back to a normal schedule and will be able to show and demo the boat for anyone who is interested. As I said, all good I just thought this might be a goof fit for this person who was looking for a custom aluminum skiff.
“1999 Lowe all welded aluminum skiff”
LOA 18’… Beam 6ft 4” …Super wide decks…
All of the aluminum is 0.100 marine grade 5052…
Floats in spit and will run in 12 inches of water…
2003 Yamaha “115 four stroke” with 90 decals. Less than 150 hours, bring your Yamaha technician if you like.
Power Tech 3 blade SS prop plus, a spare prop.
Custom made Beavertail float pods with inspection ports.
Lenco electric trim tabs.
CMC marine hydraulic jack plate.
Shallow water anchor.
BayStar hydraulic steering.
25-gallon LED backlit livewell with aerator, high-speed pickup and timer.
GARMIN echo map 73 sv with side scan and down scan.
Custom SeaDek.
LED navigation lights.
55 lb thrust Minn Kota trolling motor.
35 qt Engel cooler with matching SeaDek
Onboard dual bank battery charger.
This boat has been meticulously designed, built and maintained. Two thick coats of Steelflex on the hull. Two coats of primer and paint on the interior floor. Drop in storage bins, all stainless-steel hardware and more. Boat motor and trailer are all a condition 9.5 out of 10… The trailer has new rims and tires and a foldaway tongue.
$9,500 FIRM! Please don’t waste my time with lowball offers.
Uncle j's has a price calculator on site!I didn't know they made anything other than mud boats. Very interesting, looks like a fun site to browse. Wonder how they will compare price wise to just grabbing a cheap tin hull and local welder though. I'm not looking for fancy. I'm looking for something I can drag across oysters, limestone and then crash into a cypress tree the next day.
Take a look at what a simple metal hull build can do. For two anglers the 1648 is just right. I'm a stickler for storage space, lockable is better. I hate a crowded interior. I'm replacing it with an 1860. The retrofits were done by a good local welding shop. I did the floors. It runs way shallow.
https://www.microskiff.com/threads/mod-vee-jet-jon-boat.70684/
https://www.microskiff.com/threads/mod-vee-jet-jon-boat.70684/
I got an 1872 mvt bare hull well almost with a few options and ecc built me a mini tower. They did a great job and I love the boat. Of course everything is for sale...
I will be hunting this weekend but text me an i will try to answer any
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questions. Don't how good reception will be for working internet. 352443,0869
I will be hunting this weekend but text me an i will try to answer any
Now that looks like exactly what I had in mind.I got an 1872 mvt bare hull well almost with a few options and ecc built me a mini tower. They did a great job and I love the boat. Of course everything is for sale...
I will be hunting this weekend but text me an i will try to answer any View attachment 97548 questions. Don't how good reception will be for working internet. 352443,0869
Must see more pics!
Love that side helm!Uncle j's 18x60 with flats skiff cap. View attachment 97572 View attachment 97574
I like knot's rig, I had one similar in 1872, don't expect to move it off a bar without some help...they are big. My next will be 1860, easier for me to see towing. The 1872 had a jack plate but no tunnel and was prop driven. Had plenty of room and too fast wide open. I think it was 90hp 2 cycle? Also had a flat 1648 Lowe prop tunnel that gave good service for years.
I used the price application for Uncle J's. The same configuration was $4,500 less for the boat at the shop that set up my current hull, and his is .190 bottom and .125 sides. But the UJ's looks really good! David's boat is not overpriced and both these boats are set up and ready for work. Took me a year to get my new hull worked over from the welding shops.
I' m a stickler for storage, storage, storage and No-Bait has the same storage as mine forward and aft. That's my favorite console for a tin too. I don't want to buy a hull from a shop or dealer that is over 2 hours away, just me at my advanced age, haha. My other option is the 1860 seaark prop tunnel and retrofit, if I don't buy the custom heavy hull.
I used the price application for Uncle J's. The same configuration was $4,500 less for the boat at the shop that set up my current hull, and his is .190 bottom and .125 sides. But the UJ's looks really good! David's boat is not overpriced and both these boats are set up and ready for work. Took me a year to get my new hull worked over from the welding shops.
I' m a stickler for storage, storage, storage and No-Bait has the same storage as mine forward and aft. That's my favorite console for a tin too. I don't want to buy a hull from a shop or dealer that is over 2 hours away, just me at my advanced age, haha. My other option is the 1860 seaark prop tunnel and retrofit, if I don't buy the custom heavy hull.
I'd just buy a built out model from sea Ark and take the center console out personally.
Yes to jims, it will take less time to rig a production boat. I opted to cloister the fuel tanks and batteries in their own under-deck areas away from one another in the 1648.
The seaark has under-deck tank and 3 or 4 storage boxes available from the factory. I use a portable bait tank when I use live bait, not too often. I really like the small side console with depth finder on No-Bait's boat! Is that one that can be purchased from Uncle J's?
The 1648 welding/parts were $1800, so a factory production won't be much more compared.
If we picked our days, the old Lowe tunnel 1648 motored out to Cape Lookout many times and just outside too.
The seaark has under-deck tank and 3 or 4 storage boxes available from the factory. I use a portable bait tank when I use live bait, not too often. I really like the small side console with depth finder on No-Bait's boat! Is that one that can be purchased from Uncle J's?
The 1648 welding/parts were $1800, so a factory production won't be much more compared.
If we picked our days, the old Lowe tunnel 1648 motored out to Cape Lookout many times and just outside too.
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