Has anyone else had issues with the welded loops on fly lines opening up or breaking? This is the second time I’ve had it happen and it was the first time I had ever used this specific line (brand new).
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If that is Monic Henley Clear call them, mine did the same when tying backing and looping on leader. They sent me a new spool that is 100%. They had a few bad spools that had no core that got in the mix.Has anyone else had issues with the welded loops on fly lines opening up or breaking? This is the second time I’ve had it happen and it was the first time I had ever used this specific line (brand new).
Absolutely. Making a new loop on the fly with a couple nail knots works well. Making a loop with 50 lb. braided mono works better for a long term fix, but I prefer them at the running line end. I have a couple Rio Leviathans, produced before they put factory loops on them, with a double nail at the front and braided mono at the back that have pulled hard on lots of big critters from GTs to yellowfin and marlin for over a decade now without failure. Frankly, I trust those loops more than the “welded” variety they come with out of the box now. Sometimes old school does not mean obsolete.Has anyone else had issues with the welded loops on fly lines opening up or breaking? This is the second time I’ve had it happen and it was the first time I had ever used this specific line (brand new).
Agreed 100%. I trust my 50 lb braided mono loops over a factory loop any day. I also pack the same things and have a big spool.Absolutely. Making a new loop on the fly with a couple nail knots works well. Making a loop with 50 lb. braided mono works better for a long term fix, but I prefer them at the running line end. I have a couple Rio Leviathans, produced before they put factory loops on them, with a double nail at the front and braided mono at the back that have pulled hard on lots of big critters from GTs to yellowfin and marlin for over a decade now without failure. Frankly, I trust those loops more than the “welded” variety they come with out of the box now. Sometimes old school does not mean obsolete.
Here’s a great explanation on how to do it:
http://www.danblanton.com/blog/getting-looped/
I pack a repair kit on all of my trips, and stuff for loop repair is at the top of the list. Have heard sourcing the braided mono is tougher now, but have a giant spool so have not personally had an issue. If you want to try it out, shoot me a PM and I’ll send you a chunk.
I still use pliobond, Dave Westra from Lehr’s in Fort Myers used that on my first saltwater fly line I bought from him in the mid 80’s.Like most I distrust factory loops... but.... In recent years the ones that come on the 10 and 12wt Rio Intermediate lines that I use for big tarpon have been super. I"ve actually beaten up lines to the point that they needed replacing and the loops were just fine...
Of course, now that I've said this I'll have one fail... By the way the simplest, quickest loops to make for me are three small nail knots for one loop, spaced about a quarter inch apart using 15, 20, or 30lb mono... I very carefully trim the tag end of each loop I've made on the bias (about 45 degrees) so that it won't hang up on the guides then coat each nail knot with Pliobond, a rubber based flexible adhesive (very "old school")...