Dedicated To The Smallest Of Skiffs banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Capt Parker D
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone else had issues with the welded loops on fly lines opening up or breaking? This is the second time I’ve had it happen and it was the first time I had ever used this specific line (brand new).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
799 Posts
Weird, I have had them look like they were going to fail but well into their used life. I usually just whip a new loop and keep going. Im sure whoever made that line will exchange it for you or you can whip finish a new loop and be good to go.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
12,342 Posts
Has anyone else had issues with the welded loops on fly lines opening up or breaking? This is the second time I’ve had it happen and it was the first time I had ever used this specific line (brand new).
If that is Monic Henley Clear call them, mine did the same when tying backing and looping on leader. They sent me a new spool that is 100%. They had a few bad spools that had no core that got in the mix.

Monic 303.530.3050
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Has anyone else had issues with the welded loops on fly lines opening up or breaking? This is the second time I’ve had it happen and it was the first time I had ever used this specific line (brand new).
Absolutely. Making a new loop on the fly with a couple nail knots works well. Making a loop with 50 lb. braided mono works better for a long term fix, but I prefer them at the running line end. I have a couple Rio Leviathans, produced before they put factory loops on them, with a double nail at the front and braided mono at the back that have pulled hard on lots of big critters from GTs to yellowfin and marlin for over a decade now without failure. Frankly, I trust those loops more than the “welded” variety they come with out of the box now. Sometimes old school does not mean obsolete.

Here’s a great explanation on how to do it:

http://www.danblanton.com/blog/getting-looped/

I pack a repair kit on all of my trips, and stuff for loop repair is at the top of the list. Have heard sourcing the braided mono is tougher now, but have a giant spool so have not personally had an issue. If you want to try it out, shoot me a PM and I’ll send you a chunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,482 Posts
Absolutely. Making a new loop on the fly with a couple nail knots works well. Making a loop with 50 lb. braided mono works better for a long term fix, but I prefer them at the running line end. I have a couple Rio Leviathans, produced before they put factory loops on them, with a double nail at the front and braided mono at the back that have pulled hard on lots of big critters from GTs to yellowfin and marlin for over a decade now without failure. Frankly, I trust those loops more than the “welded” variety they come with out of the box now. Sometimes old school does not mean obsolete.

Here’s a great explanation on how to do it:

http://www.danblanton.com/blog/getting-looped/

I pack a repair kit on all of my trips, and stuff for loop repair is at the top of the list. Have heard sourcing the braided mono is tougher now, but have a giant spool so have not personally had an issue. If you want to try it out, shoot me a PM and I’ll send you a chunk.
Agreed 100%. I trust my 50 lb braided mono loops over a factory loop any day. I also pack the same things and have a big spool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,740 Posts
Like most I distrust factory loops... but.... In recent years the ones that come on the 10 and 12wt Rio Intermediate lines that I use for big tarpon have been super. I"ve actually beaten up lines to the point that they needed replacing and the loops were just fine...

Of course, now that I've said this I'll have one fail... By the way the simplest, quickest loops to make for me are three small nail knots for one loop, spaced about a quarter inch apart using 15, 20, or 30lb mono... I very carefully trim the tag end of each loop I've made on the bias (about 45 degrees) so that it won't hang up on the guides then coat each nail knot with Pliobond, a rubber based flexible adhesive (very "old school")...
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
1,527 Posts
I put a knot and a drop of glue on all of my loops for 6wt and above. My 8-9wts get two knots and the 12wt gets three knots. I had a tough spring and summer for loosing big fish (mostly big jacks) from failed factory loops and/or trusting nail knot connections instead of loops that I make or reinforced factory loops. It only takes me a couple minutes to fix up my lines for peace of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
I've never had a factory loop fail, but I am using SA lines. I've had a few Tarpon I wish the loop would have failed on...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Ditto on the 50lb braided loops per Dan Blanton , Bill Nash, & others. When factory loops first appeared on fly lines I had several fail here in Alaska … then later had a couple crater in Belize & Mexico. Tried using 2 nail (needle) knots for a while, similar to lemaymiami, but noticed a few would begin to unravel. The unraveling was either "my bad", (tried several different knot glues/epoxies) or possibly from nicks. Been making braided (double-catch) loops for about 10yrs and to date no problems … replace them every other year. (On my permit lines, every year.) I travel with a bag as Sardina does but instead of a Daho needle(s) use an old B-string from my Strat. I do plan on purchasing some Daho needles in the future for using on Threadlock.
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
1820 Action Craft
Joined
·
815 Posts
Like most I distrust factory loops... but.... In recent years the ones that come on the 10 and 12wt Rio Intermediate lines that I use for big tarpon have been super. I"ve actually beaten up lines to the point that they needed replacing and the loops were just fine...

Of course, now that I've said this I'll have one fail... By the way the simplest, quickest loops to make for me are three small nail knots for one loop, spaced about a quarter inch apart using 15, 20, or 30lb mono... I very carefully trim the tag end of each loop I've made on the bias (about 45 degrees) so that it won't hang up on the guides then coat each nail knot with Pliobond, a rubber based flexible adhesive (very "old school")...
I still use pliobond, Dave Westra from Lehr’s in Fort Myers used that on my first saltwater fly line I bought from him in the mid 80’s.
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
584 Posts
I had one break on a tarpon once but landed the fish and the leader loop stayed connected so I don’t worry too much..
thats 1 out of maybe 10 12wt lines over the years.

mostly rio lines if that helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Like a lot of the other guys, I can't bring myself to trust those factory loops. On the other hand, I don't even trust a seasoned guide to tie my loops or knots. Another reason that I cut off those loops and nail knot a heavy mono loop on is that I don't like the way those factory loops run through the guides. On two different occasions, I have heard about them catching on rod guides. A friend using a long leader said he had a big fish at the boat and had his ferrule pull apart when the fish made one last run. And another had his top rod guide pulled off. My mono loops have never failed, and slide through my guides with barely a click.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top