Veneer over plywood deck?

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by FlatCat, Mar 22, 2010.

  1. FlatCat

    FlatCat Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking about connecting the front and back decks on my banshee to be able to walk around. I ordered the marine ply, thought it might look cool to bond a teak veneer (whole thing or just accent strip), and seal with clear epoxy w/non skid additive.
    Am i asking for issues with the veneer delaminating?
     
  2. Frank_Sebastian

    Frank_Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    One thing to think about is the epoxy must be kept from ultra-violet light. Ordinarily this is done with marine varnish on small boats or kayaks. I always both prime and paint any epoxy work. I have seen a teak and holly decorative deck inside a cabin boat. It was likely never coated with epoxy.

    Best regards,
    Frank_S
     

  3. FlatCat

    FlatCat Well-Known Member

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    I've seen uv stable epoxies, usually used for coating bartops/tables, etc. I figured this is what was used on the higher end marine woodwork like fighting chairs.
     
  4. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    http://www.mertons.com/Epoxy/epoxy_resins/sb.html

    Use epoxy to apply the veneer?
     
  5. FlatCat

    FlatCat Well-Known Member

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    My plan was to bond the veneer with epoxy in a 4x8 sheet, roll out any voids and clamp. Then seal later after cutting and fitting.
    Would prob build a small console the same way if it works out. The ply/veneer layup is about 1/10 the cost and time of solid construction ($3/sq ft vs $30).
     
  6. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL

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    You are better off building out the boat the way you want it and then add the veneer. You, as a backyard wood worker, will probably not achieve a good bond for a piece that big.

    Dry fit all your pieces, remove, coat both pieces (structural pieces and veneer) with epoxy then use saran wrap as your clamp. Might need some tape to hold the ends of the saran wrap so it won't come undone. Pull the wrap tight so it slightly stretches.
     
  7. FlatCat

    FlatCat Well-Known Member

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    Veneering after / in place is a good idea. Okume showed up today. I ran it through a widebelt sander to 150 grit to smooth and level. I'm starting tomorrow and will take some pics. I figure worst case if it looks like shiz, i will paint it.
     
  8. Un-shore

    Un-shore Well-Known Member

    I like the saran wrap idea too but I'm wondering if the center would lift, maybe I'm not picturing it right.

    if you wanted to do a full sheet couldn't you lay your plywood/veneer lamination on a flat floor/driveway and lay visgueen and another sheet of ply on top of and pile on some weight to clamp them?
     
  9. FlatCat

    FlatCat Well-Known Member

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    I've used shrink film for "clamping" odd shapes among other things...they sell at Lowes. For this, I have lots of traditional clamps and access to a membrane press (work at a custom cabinet shop). I'm not too worried about the veneer bond, i guess i was just thinking through combining furnature construction with boat building chemistry.
     
  10. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL

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    Yes it can be glued after but it is more difficult and much easier to get a hump. Not much sanding will take you through the veneer.

    Shrink wrap also works but the heat will severely thin the glue and may break down the chemistry of the epoxy (I have never tried this approach).
     
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