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Discussion Starter #1
Good Afternoon All,
So back in 2014 I built my “Leeward Skiff” from scratch and I’m Suuuuper happy with it. She’s 14’ long and I was fortunate to find an ‘08 25hp 2 stroke Yammy to put on the back. Not being informed about the proper height to set the motor, I bolted it it up where the cav plate is about 1 and 1/4” below the hull. ROOKIE!! I wish I knew then, what I know now. I wanted to get an upgraded SS prop (possible Foreman) so once I started looking into it, it opened up a CAN OF WORMS! I took it Saturday to gather some data and this is what I found. “As built “ I was seeing 23-25 mph WOT with the little SE 200 hydrofoil. I took the foil off with no discernible difference in hole shot bow rise but I was getting up to 28 mph consistently. That’s good. So do you guys think I’d be worth the hastle of glass and gel repair to move it up to where it’s supposed to be? Think I’d gain more speed? If anyone has had experience with adjustment, I’d like to hear what you found. Thank you everyone.
 
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Raise it up! Go in 1/2” increments until it cavitates then drop back down a 1/2”. But... if your gonna run a custom prop then raise it til’ she cavitates and try the custom with cup prop before lowering.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Raise it up! Go in 1/2” increments until it cavitates then drop back down a 1/2”. But... if your gonna run a custom prop then raise it til’ she cavitates and try the custom with cup prop before lowering.
But I think he is asking whether he should build up the transom, building it up 1/2" at a time is time consuming, not to mention the structural integrity of those 1/2" stacks is questionable...

R-Dub - I would consider a manual jack plate with which you can move up and down until you find the sweet spot. Yes, it will also add more setback, which will complicate the equation as far as how high to set the cav plate, but it will be adjustable so you can really dial it in. You can build one out of angled aluminum stock. Here is a link to how it can be made if you choose to go this route: http://www.dillon-racing.com/jackplate/plans/jack-plate-page-01.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do like the idea of making a custom manual JP. I’ve looked at a few and wasn’t 100% sure if I could find one that would allow me to use the already drilled transom holes from the Yamaha Base. If the holes didn’t match up, it defeats the purpose and would be just as much work with extra cost. I’ll study up on the plans you sent and see if it’s do-able. I’ve got a friend with a machine shop that owes me a favor from helping him with his new gel coat and webbing job. I left all the old gel coat grind-off to him. I’m not crazy!! Lol!
 

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Brandon, FL
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Do like bassflat did. Use any old wood and then make a nice final piece.

But in the end what gain might you get? That is unknown. By the sounds of it you are doing pretty good by leaving the fin off.

You have entered the "law of diminishing return" or "the last 10% takes 90% of the time".

It's your decision.
 
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