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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a skiff with the Accon pop-up bow light, need it to come out and can't get it unscrewed. I am guessing there are nylock nuts securing the screws, but I can't reach forward from the front hatch, as it is too far & with the gas tank in the way.
Am sure I will kick myself later, but I'm frustrated and had to ask.
Any advice welcomed. Thanks
Brick

BTW, I am rebuilding my 1st skiff, a '02 Dolphin Super Skiff Pro abandoned 14 years ago in NY.
 

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Brute strength!

You're a Brick... House...
You're mighty mighty, just let it all hang out!

Sorry - I know that's not helpful but I'm feeling froggy this morning and couldn't let that go. Hopefully someone with more sense than me will chime in and help you out.
 

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BTW, I am rebuilding my 1st skiff, a '02 Dolphin Super Skiff Pro abandoned 14 years ago in NY.
That sounds pretty cool. Show us some pictures.

As for your light, there is no special trick. If you're not going to reuse the light just drill the tops of the screws out and lift the light off the deck. The will get the light off the deck but doesn't solve your problem of the fuel tank being in the way. You're still going to need access to the underside of that hole to repair it or install something new. If it were me I would just drill out the heads of the screws but I would still be pulling the fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the input. I attached a picture of the deck facing forward. All the comments followed my thoughts as well respective drilling out, but I want to reinstall the bow light when fixed and pulling the tank is more time right now than I can take on. So I found a nice low profile steel access hatch and will place it there so I can get job#1 done and then later have access to install a trolling motor plate and wiring. Got some excellent ideas from this site on power plug options that I intend to do. Thanks again.
 

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Thats funny, my accon pop up light on my 2001 dolphin is just screwed in without nuts on the backside. That tank is a pain to remove without cutting something. Mine was leaking so I cut it into pieces to get it out. The vent tube that is welded on top will screw you from pulling it out cleanly if that is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the comments, esp. w.r.t. the gas tank. I was tracing out that vent and had some concern, so I;m glas the tank is still good.
And I want repair the light wiring, then reinstall it as it's a great feature to fly fish.
With the kevlar hull, I'm not comfortable drilling the screws out and then reinstalling without a bolt and flat/nut underneath to reinstall it. And I also have to install the trolling motor later, so will need access under-deck for connecting that plate anyways.
 

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Well think hard before you mount that access hatch and the location of where the TM puck is going. These boats have a hell of a flair on them making it a very small gap to mount the puck with bolts and backing plate. You might want to try and contact someone who has done it first. Ive seen where some people have come through lip of the hull, but I wouldnt do that on mine. Also that light hole might be big enough to have a kid stick his arm in there and mount the puck without needing an ugly hatch. I can get my arm in there but I cant reach all around since I'm a big guy. So I would drill out the screws. Pull out the light. Using the open hole I would tape the under side of screw holes and then add epoxy to the holes from top. Let it set then drill and screw it back in. Don't over think it because its kevlar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Took the bow light apart from the deck and found a drain cup bolted underneath, so I can't see anything lower. And the mounting screws are sorta tight, but turn if I take a drill to them. So I laid out the deck with the 4" access port & TM puck,; see the pic. It looks ~ok to me , but to the larger group, comments?
Metal
 

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I think I would try to screw that water catch free and pushed it down and out of the way while checking everything out. I still have mine in place and I've done it a couple times. Then reach your phone in the hole and take photos with flash of everything.
I would also consider how thin the "lip" is where you have your puck. The cap is most likely bonded there with some thickened resin. Not sure if you can get away with only using three bolts. I do like the access port you have if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
All good input, thanks. So my plan now is try to drill out the light screws, drop the drain pan and inspect beneath, ESPECIALLY where the TM puck goes (*B), then proceed to fix wiring and install TM puck. Puck will seal to deck with 4200 (NOT 5200), will have an AL plate I made for under-deck and outside screw hole will get a short screw into the deck, but not out the bottom! And Plan*B - Failing to get the screws out or if I can't survey under the puck, then insert the port and carry-on. Rains coming all week, so gonna take some time for me to get that done; will post the finished product....or my screw ups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LOTS of rain, sorry for delay. Plan A did not work out, the light-pan just would not budge. So had to put the access port in alsom but got the TM all mounted and working well.
Vehicle Propeller

And I now can access the repair needed to the bow light, but think its' gotta change out since I will use the TM at night and need the bow-light to be visible from port-side.
So I'm leaning to a 12" Perko plug-in light or could put "shark-eyes" in the bow; Any Recommendations?
BTW here's the overall boat so far. Spec's; 2002 Super Skiff, 2019 Yam F70, Bob's 4" UL jack-plate and Lenco trim tabs, Minnkota55#-12V TM with 60A- Anderson plug done now, getting a Dragonfly5 on the console and seat upgrade later;
Bass boat Water transportation Vehicle Boat Speedboat

Thanks for all the helpful comments so far.
 

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The one and only time I've seen someone install one of these he drilled about a 2.5in hole in the middle of where the puck was going to be mounted. Then installed round head bolts that had been threaded in the four mounting locations of the puck. Then very carefully put the cut out back in the hole and installed the puck.

With the puck removed the mounting holes looked like this.
 
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