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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for suggestions on a riser. The little skiff I recently bought has a 15 inch transom. All of the short shaft motors I have dry fitted leave the cav plate an about an inch or two below the hull. Even though by spec the motors are supposed to have a 15 inch shaft they measure in at about 17 inches. Ideally I would like the cav plate level or even an inch above the bottom of the hull.
This brings me to my question. Where can I get a riser plate made or does something already exist? I'm aiming to keep the weight of a plate or riser to a minimum. I will be picking up a Merc 9.9 short shaft at the end of the week and I would like to bolt it on rather than just relying on the twist clamps. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any suggestions for an aluminum plate?

I found this one but can't find weight info. Also has more rise than I need.

Screenshot_20190109-181947.png

Was thinking more along the lines of thi No offset, just raising the motor up a few inches.

Screenshot_20190109-183331.png
 

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I have built jackplates for canoes similar to what your looking for any experienced aluminum welder can handle it.

I typically bought flat 1/4” or 3/8 plate and then cut and drilled to fit transom and then had welder weld a flat piece of plate onto the two plate halves to complete the riser.

On smaller canoes you can get away with just putting a wood block of the correct width between the plates on the inside and outside of the transom and then go to town.

On my 13’ aluminum canoe I actually have long vertical slots built into the jack plate(with hdpe underneath the jackplate) and I can raise and lower the jack plate based on running load of with a buddy and running solo.

On most of the canoes I have built them for we gained 3-5” of lift.
 

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On my 13’ aluminum canoe I actually have long vertical slots built into the jack plate(with hdpe underneath the jackplate) and I can raise and lower the jack plate based on running load of with a buddy and running solo.

On most of the canoes I have built them for we gained 3-5” of lift.
Any photos of this setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found this one but not sure I want 5 inches of setback. The rise would be perfect and the weight is minimal at 13 lbs. Open to other suggestions.
Screenshot_20190109-224508.png
 

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If you do not need the adjustability you can make your own self a pair out of some aluminum “u” channel. 3” works great. I would be into as much offset i could handle w existing gear. Super cheap Good luck
 

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Found this one but not sure I want 5 inches of setback. The rise would be perfect and the weight is minimal at 13 lbs. Open to other suggestions.
View attachment 55946
That's the correct brand, has an adjustment bolt for height. Vance has all different offsets. Different horsepower versions, call n talk to them about ur motor size. I currently have one on my new skiff.
 

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If it makes you happy, go for it.
There is a reason for the typical transom height
that puts the anti-ventilation plate 1 inch below bottom of hull.
Small flat bottom hulls create a layer of aerated water about two inches thick
just under the the hull that can interfere with the prop's ability to bite cleanly.
Raising the outboard height can force you to swap props to one with more cupping.
All those bubbles caused by the forward motion of the hull can wreak havoc with standard props.
 

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66FF7258-9947-40BA-9FBA-4EB782FA42E8.jpeg
I made my own out of aluminum angle and a piece of 1/4” plate that I bought at an aluminum supply house in Orlando. I think cost was $40 or so (plate was a scrap that I just had to square up). I attached a piece of composite 2x4 to the top of the plate for the outboard clamps. It sat for about 10 years and had very minor corrosion, so i’m getting it powder coated for my Highsider remodel.
 
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