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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On the heels of another discussion on jack plates, I have done some research on trailering your outboard engine and found interesting facts I was not aware of:

(1) On the newer evinrude engines (in this case, mine), do not use the springed-tilt saver to trailer your engine. it is mean for storage and repair only.I was not aware of that but now that I read about it, it makes sense.

(2) You are better off lowering the tilt of the engine all the way down if you have enough clearance for the skeg. It is not recommended to use the jack plate to lift it up as it might put pressure on the plate screws since the two plates are no longer aligned. I wonder if this is true if the engine tilt is down?

(3) Transom savers have an equal amount of people who say they are good (taking the pressure off the transom while giving you sked clearance) as people who say they are bad (basically transferring the impact of the road from the trailer to the engine while it was not there before and possibly stressing the transom in a different way).

In short, I am still confused as to the best way to trailer your boat and engine.

Do anybody have any words of wisdom here?

Thanks
 

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Carpe Diem
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Trailer with the prop/skeg high enough to avoid scraping and with the engine securely braced to the transom so that both move in the same direction at the same time so that the hammer/impact effect of the motor bouncing up and down is reduced to a minimum. Different trailers, different motors and mounting methods require different approaches. My trailer is torsion axle and rides very low, which is nice for launching but leaves little clearance from ground to skeg with the motor down. Consequently I have to trailer with the motor tilted. I use straps and a wooden block under the tilt/trim to keep the motor secure to the transom. Your rig and trailer may be very different, but the concepts are the same. Don't use transom savers that mount from the motor to the trailer. They just transmit shocks from the trailer to the motor and then to the transom. Having the motor solidly braced to the transom is the goal.
 

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While we are on the subject has anyone switched from the transom saver to the little oem inserts that slide over the trim and tilt piston?
 

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Stripper in my own Mind!
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While we are on the subject has anyone switched from the transom saver to the little oem inserts that slide over the trim and tilt piston?
I did when I was using the Pathy 17. Couldn’t use a saver because of the trailer setup. It provided enough clearance to trailer but I ended up adding a strap because the motor would still bounce. They do protect the ram cylinder but I think they’re more practical for larger/heavier motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I use straps and a wooden block under the tilt/trim to keep the motor secure to the transom.
I have a torsion trailer too riding low. I assume the wood block and straps is the same concept as the M-Y wedge with straps. I don;t want to use the engine built -in spring loaded tilt system even with a strap as I was told it is not designed for trailering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I tow trimmed down, but my trailer sits higher than a Cypress Hill concert. I have no issues with clearance.
Based on the experience from this forum, what is an acceptable clearance between the skeg and ground for a torsion trailer?
 

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Stripper in my own Mind!
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How would one accomplish keeping the motor straight with a tiller if not using a transom saver?
I always roped the outboard handle to the platform. When I say outboard handle, I don’t mean the tiller arm though. It’s the part you pick the motor up with. Too many things can happen IMO when you use the tiller arm as a tie off point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I always roped the outboard handle to the platform. When I say outboard handle, I don’t mean the tiller arm though. It’s the part you pick the motor up with. Too many things can happen IMO when you use the tiller arm as a tie off point.
Ditto ... tied it to the stand up handle bar on my previous boat, Ankona 18 Tiller.
 

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I always roped the outboard handle to the platform. When I say outboard handle, I don’t mean the tiller arm though. It’s the part you pick the motor up with. Too many things can happen IMO when you use the tiller arm as a tie off point.
interesting, can you share a pic?
 

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I did when I was using the Pathy 17. Couldn’t use a saver because of the trailer setup. It provided enough clearance to trailer but I ended up adding a strap because the motor would still bounce. They do protect the ram cylinder but I think they’re more practical for larger/heavier motors.
You answered my question, thanks. Was wondering if the motor still bounced. I get minimal bounce with the transom saver, will probably stick with this system.
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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I put a piece of 1 1/2” wooden dowel between the motor and the motor mounts and tilt the motor down until it stops. The guy I got the boat from has done this since the boat was new in 2001 so it must be fine.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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View attachment 20832 This is how I trailer mine. Modified a transom saver and added a sea sucker to end. Works great
Panama1, You are brilliant ! (I see what you did with your transducer as well). This addresses all the negatives of trailer vibration. Could you share with us how you modified the seasucker to accommdate the transom saver ? Thanks for thinking out side the box, well done.
 

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Based on the experience from this forum, what is an acceptable clearance between the skeg and ground for a torsion trailer?
I honestly couldn't tell you. I'm on a traditional leaf spring trailer and when you combine that with the raised transom of the 17T, my skeg is at least 10" off the ground. Plus I run Ozello and Yankeetown a lot so my skeg takes some punishment anyway.
 

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Panhandler
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I've been using the smaller m-y wedge for awhile and it cushions to reduce bouncing while also keeping the engine lowered for less force on the transom. It slides over the power tilt ram. About $40 on-line.

m-ywedge_universal.png
 

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I've been using the smaller m-y wedge for awhile and it cushions to reduce bouncing while also keeping the engine lowered for less force on the transom. It slides over the power tilt ram. About $40 on-line.

View attachment 20841
How does it keep the motor from bouncing up?
 

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Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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I made a transom saver with some scrap aluminum I had at the shop -- the biggest issue I see with transom savers is how they go to the motor. I flared the edges and used some thick (5/8"?) neoprene foam that I plan on doubling up soon in order to protect the lower unit of the motor.

The only load added to the transom by the saver is the load from the trailer to the motor. I think that the majority of this load is negated since the trailer transfers that same movement to the transom through the hull. There will be some minor loading (high frequency, low displacement) due to differences in the vibration through the saver vs. the hull, but I would much prefer those stresses rather than those caused by the transom being the only thing restraining the movement of the motor.
 
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