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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any thoughts on making a better waterproof connection with your side trailer clearance lights as mine never last very long with the standard blue plastic crimp wire connectors they recommend you use.
Plastic Electronic device Electrical supply
I have rewired a lot of trailers with new LED lights, liquid electrical tape, and heat shrink but for some reason the side clearance lights always seem to die first and looking to make a better longer lasting connection!
 
G

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Do the twist n tape method but use marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. I have never had a corrosion issue doing this! Looks very clean when done also! You can solder the splice if you feel it will not hold, I do not because I feel it makes a hard spot in the wire that will cause a break eventually.
 

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I run all of my trailer light wiring with extension cords. I try to keep the connections to a minimum on the length of the trailer. All wires are heat shrink butt connector, then coated in liquid electrical tape, and then covered with a heat shrink tube. All light wiring come straight to the yoke of the trailer by the winch where they are then spliced to the plug wire. I dont have any issues this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Guys am having no problems running my main trailer wires (2 on each side) back to my main trailer lights as they work properly. I am having problems when you try to splice in / or connect in 2/3 clearance lights on each side of my trailer to give me reference at night for backing up and just seeing my trailer in my side mirrors as I motor down the road! They always work when first installed but are usually dead in 6 months to a year which points to a problem with the electrical connection somewhere!

Just so you know, all my wire to wire connections are twist wrapped, covered in Liquid Electrical Tape, then covered in heat shrink, and more LET on both ends of HS.
 
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Guys am having no problems running my main trailer wires (2 on each side) back to my main trailer lights as they work properly. I am having problems when you try to splice in / or connect in 2/3 clearance lights on each side of my trailer to give me reference at night for backing up and just seeing my trailer in my side mirrors as I motor down the road! They always work when first installed but are usually dead in 6 months to a year which points to a problem with the electrical connection somewhere!

Just so you know, all my wire to wire connections are twist wrapped, covered in Liquid Electrical Tape, then covered in heat shrink, and more LET on both ends of HS.
You’ll need to either disconnect from tail lights to run the shrink tube up to your markers to use my method or “ahem” cut and splice at the marker lights. I have never had a problem with corrosion so I’d cut and splice.
 

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I got what you are saying, I think you missed what I was trying to say. Where you would normally use the clip to the brown wire, run a full length wire from the side light to the front of the trailer and then splice in there. That way your connection isnt getting wet each time you dunk the trailer. Same thing with the ground. The ground doesn't have to be right at the light fixture which when gets wet can get corrosion between the bolt and the trailer. Run a wire to the front of trailer and have the ground in a dry spot. You might be able to clean your grounds and it be the only problem.

You are going to have more wiring along the trailer beams, but the connections will stay clean. The only other issue would be quality lights which I am sure you are already using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got what you are saying, I think you missed what I was trying to say. Where you would normally use the clip to the brown wire, run a full length wire from the side light to the front of the trailer and then splice in there. That way your connection isnt getting wet each time you dunk the trailer. Same thing with the ground. The ground doesn't have to be right at the light fixture which when gets wet can get corrosion between the bolt and the trailer. Run a wire to the front of trailer and have the ground in a dry spot. You might be able to clean your grounds and it be the only problem.

You are going to have more wiring along the trailer beams, but the connections will stay clean. The only other issue would be quality lights which I am sure you are already using.
Ahhh now I understand! Thx JPizzle
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got what you are saying, I think you missed what I was trying to say. Where you would normally use the clip to the brown wire, run a full length wire from the side light to the front of the trailer and then splice in there. That way your connection isnt getting wet each time you dunk the trailer. Same thing with the ground. The ground doesn't have to be right at the light fixture which when gets wet can get corrosion between the bolt and the trailer. Run a wire to the front of trailer and have the ground in a dry spot. You might be able to clean your grounds and it be the only problem.

You are going to have more wiring along the trailer beams, but the connections will stay clean. The only other issue would be quality lights which I am sure you are already using.
Got one more question JPizzle! If I run ground wires for the 4 clearance lights and 1 ID bar back up trough the trailer to the main ground on the front of the trailer, that would be quite a stack of connectors to ground in one location. Should I put the 6 connectors in the same place up front near the trailer hitch and tighten down on the galvanized part of the aluminum trailer?
 

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You can splice in prior to the front of the trailer if you want with the step down splices just stagger if you want, just more connections. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--step-down-heat-shrink-butt-connectors--P015982408

Or you can put one of the non metallic electrical boxes and mount on trailer to house a bus bar for the connections. Seems like a lot of excess work but you only have to do it once. I just have my ground by the coupler.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-...C-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100404097-_-N
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can splice in prior to the front of the trailer if you want with the step down splices just stagger if you want, just more connections. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--step-down-heat-shrink-butt-connectors--P015982408

Or you can put one of the non metallic electrical boxes and mount on trailer to house a bus bar for the connections. Seems like a lot of excess work but you only have to do it once. I just have my ground by the coupler.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-...C-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100404097-_-N
After looking at all my options JPizzle I think I am going with this simple Junction Box https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Spectro/38656.html as I am tried of messing with trailer lights every year. I will install the JB up front on the trailer high and dry so it should never have any water intrusion!
 

· Brandon, FL
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I have made electrical connections that reside underwater.

I slipped a big piece of heat shrink over the two strand wire. I slipped one heat shrink over each of the strands. I soldered the wires together and put the heat shrink over it. Then I slid the big piece over the two splices and shrunk one end. I then poured the tube full of epoxy and then shrunk the othe end and very lightly shrink the middle to squeeze any air out.

It is a very messy job but it has been constantly under salt water for two plus years.
 

· I Love microskiff.com!
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Any thoughts on making a better waterproof connection with your side trailer clearance lights as mine never last very long with the standard blue plastic crimp wire connectors they recommend you use. View attachment 30011 I have rewired a lot of trailers with new LED lights, liquid electrical tape, and heat shrink but for some reason the side clearance lights always seem to die first and looking to make a better longer lasting connection!
I get years out of my connections.....the secret....hot glue. Buy a cheap hot glue gun and plenty of sticks of glue. Splice the wires like you aleays do, then encapsulate the entire connection with hot glue. Virtually sealing the splice so nothing gets to it. On the side marker lights, do the same thing. Where the ground wire connects to the trailer, encapsulate it also. Haven’t touched a trailer light in 4 years.
 
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