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Discussion Starter #1
I have read the thread on the power winch discussion with interest to see if I should consider it for fun (always looking to tinker). I am on the heavy end of shallow skiffs with a BT3 and I replaced my bunks with good quality carpet 9 months ago. Added wax and been launching and retrieving the boat with a lot less of the trailer in the water but also pulling more of the boat on he trailer by hand. It has been a breeze with absolutely no effort whatsoever. But ......

...my bunks seem to be wearing off already?

I assume the dragging of the boat on the bunks is what is creating the early wear on the carpet so I am back to dunking the trailer to minimize friction.

All you guys doing dry launches and using power winches to bring the boat on the trailer, are you experiencing the same?

Am I doing something wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dang you’re good! So I guess you know what I am doing wrong
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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You’re not doing anything wrong, it’s something nearly every boat owner deals with. I came to the conclusion that the bow entry is narrower and deeper and the bunks hit on the inside first and as the hull flattens out and slides on the bunks fit fine (generally speaking).
The only ways to really stop this is by mounting a bow roller that catches the center and keeps the hull off the bunks until the hull flattens out or the second way is to pull the carpet off your bunks and route the inside corners with a half round bit then double carpet them or at least double the carpet on the front third or do both for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Makes Perfect sense ... thanks Smack! Will look into rollers as it seems easier to do than route my 13 ft long bunks even if only the front part!
 

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Makes Perfect sense ... thanks Smack! Will look into rollers as it seems easier to do than route my 13 ft long bunks even if only the front part!
You only need one roller, just enough to keep the bow from dropping between the bunks then it should be out of the way once the boat begins to ride on the bunks. It might not work for all hulls but it does on some.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gotta give it a shot as soon as the boat gets out of the shop. I have dipping cross beams on the trailers so need to measure. Don’t seem to find any aluminum or stainless steel hardware for the roller, only zinc plated steel! Guess it’ll have to do unless someone knows where to find some. Thanks.
 

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If your trailer's aluminum just weld a couple of aluminum struts to the proper crossmember, drilled at the proper height to accept the bolt through the roller. I'm on the other side of Houston from you (New Caney), but I would be happy to weld them for you if we can work it into our schedules (I'm off Mon/Tue and busy as a long-tailed cat in a roomful of rocking chairs, so you'd have to bring it here).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks hipshot! Appreciate the offer. The trailer is all aluminum. The welding part is a good approach. I like the strut idea (not sure about salty environments) but curious why use a strut versus a well positioned pair of aluminum support bar to accept the roller bolt.
 

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Try national trailer parts for hardware.i think they sell a roller pin w grease fitting. Seen one somewhere, they are out there. Removed keel roller on flats boat trailer, boat has one of those “ keel saver “ pads. Kept boogering it up. Not recommended, came on skiff. Also i mounted bunks with a slight pinch, 6” , at front. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Rob ... I do have one of these keel saver on it. Came with the boat and it saved my bacon a couple of time ... by pinching, I assume you banked the bunks so that the hull would hit the flat of the bunk? If so, did that slow down the wear? It seems that the bunk is aligned with the hull but now wonder if the weight of the boat once on the bunk is forcing the bunk down angle but when moving the boat on the trailer, it is not completely flat with the hull which creates the friction as per Smack! Might want to put a spacer between the bunk and bracket to see if I can force an angle!
 

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efi2712 micro, the struts I’m referring to would be a pair of aluminum flat bars welded vertically to the crossmember. If the dimensions of the trailer require very long struts, we would probably need to use channel rather than flat configured struts. The challenge would be finding the material without having to buy more than you need.
 

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Add a roller and be done with it.
 

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No sir , not real numbers, 36 “ apart at rear ,then 30” apart up front.
Dont think my keel saver was installed well. Really crooked. Boat trailer wasnt set up well prior to me tho. Good luck
 
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