Tibor Reels

Discussion in 'Fly Fishing' started by DeepSouthFly, Feb 23, 2017.

  1. Backwater

    Backwater Fly Fishing Shaman

    Roger, What gel spun is it?

    I think if you hooked a nuclear submarine, you might be able to take full advantage of that many yards of backing. ;) Otherwise, aside from spool arbor size displacement, it's way overkill on a 9wt.

    el9surf has a good point as well.

    As far as your 8wt, the Sig Series 9-10 is even more overkill and will way over balance that rod. Use that reel on a 10wt instead unless the rod is just too fast for you. Then I can see where it will come in handy to help bend the rod to load it and not necessarily the backing yardage being a factor.

    Like I preach on this channel.... "be careful on what gel spun you use (and the diameter thereof) because it can cut wet fingers like a hot knife going through butter." o_O Using only 30lb Gel Spun is about 1/3 the diameter of normal dacron backing diameter, coupled with the "zipper" band saw effect of the texture of most gel spuns, it will be like a band saw on wet fingers. :eek:


    That's why in most inshore situations, normal smooth larger diameter dacron or micron is a better choice, since it's smooth and doesn't cut you if you accidentally touch it while a fish is pealing off backing from your reel. Believe me, I've seen fingers cut to the bone because of that.

    With those species of fish you just named off, you'd be lucky to have one of those fish run you 50yrds into the backing, unless you get a really big albie or big cobia, then maybe 100yrds tops. The rest of it is just increasing your spool diameter where your fly line will lay over, thereby reducing fly line memory (i.e., the smaller the spool diameter, the more you'll get memory in your fly line... and the larger the arbor where the fly line connects to the backing, the less fly line memory you'll have.). Makes sense? ;)

    If I were going to recommend a Tibor for that 8wt NRX Pro-1, it would be an Everglades for sure and that will balance that rod out just perfectly IMO. Spool it up with about 200yrds of 20lb Cortland Micron with your 8wt line and you could be good, as long as you keep your leader outside of your reel and strung up on the rod. If it doesn't quite fit with the fly line spooled up, then trim the backing back 10yrds at a time until it fits (prolly no less that 175yrds total backing with the Cortland Micron 20lb). The Micron has a slight less dia than dacron, so you can get a few more yards of backing on your reel. If you had to go Gel Spun on that rod or others, then use the Rio 50lb GSP (very smooth backing), or one of the hollow cores in 50lb (do a "Search" on "hollow core gel spun" on this Fly Fishing Forum for more info) since it lays flat with a wider profile, thereby decreasing the chance of cutting.

    Ted Haas
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2018
    sjrobin and sabaird1221 like this.
  2. Roger_Cook

    Roger_Cook I Love microskiff.com!

    Yeah, I used 20# gel spun once and I knew when I put it on it would cut me, and it did. On a 6wt, hooked a spanish and something big- AJ or cobia- ate it and got hooked. Took off on its first run and I got cut. Don't use it any more. I like a lot of backing, don't remember ever thinking "I wish I had less backing" and am used to using a reel larger than "normal". I do catch big albies and cobia, never had a cobia run that far but albies are a different story, and there's always a chance of hooking something unexpected. I've had two encounters with sailfish while using a 6 wt. Didn't hook either one, but if I had I would have been thankful for the 300 yds. of backing I had on the reel. Kings and sometimes cudas will make long runs. If the Signature 9-10 is too heavy for the rod I'll switch it out for something, but the Everglades is only one ounce lighter. The 9-10 feels fine on the rod but I haven't cast it yet. I seldom blind-cast.

    I do use 6 and 8 wts for albies early in the season, then switch to 9's around November.
    All my reels are full . Most have 300 yds. of backing. One 12 wt. has 600, one has 1200 because I see Bluefin occasionally. I figure with 1200 yds. I can at least get the boat started and chase him. And the additional backing doesn't eat anything.

  3. Backwater

    Backwater Fly Fishing Shaman

    Nice car tag!! :cool:

    Rodger, one thing that most people don't realize is just how little pressure you and a normal drag setting can actually put on a fish. if you are just letting it run with little pressure it, then yes, they will keep running. Don't believe that's the case? Try affixing a weight scale to a fixed object (like your trailer hitch on your vehicle. Tie your butt section of your leader directly to it, Have someone monitor the scale and call out the pound rating you are applying. Walk back with your rod about 80ft from that hitch and put pressure on that scale like you normally do a fish. Then try to apply maximum pressure on that rod and see what that comes up to with poundage pressure. Do that with each of your rods. Here's what I think you come up with. 6wt - normal - maybe 1-2lbs of pressure. Max pressure, maybe 3lbs if you are lucky. 8wt - normal - 2-3lbs. Max pressure - maybe 3-4lbs. 9wt - normal - 3-4lbs, max pressure - maybe 4lbs. 10wt - etc..... Your 12wt - 5-6lbs and if you are a real man and give all you got, maybe 8lbs tops with the rod.

    The technique - Learn how to use your whole body to apply maximum pressure on the fish. I had to get that lesson handed to me by an ole school tarpon guide from the Keys who eventually had a fly shop in Tampa Bay, many years ago called World Class outfitters and his name was Cliff Martin. Back then, I was young and full of piss and vinegar and thought I was big stuff when it came to landing big tarpon on fly back in the 90's. He made that same challenge up above and handed me my own pride back to me in a leftovers doggie bag! :oops: So I set out to learn from him, met up with Stu Apte, learned from him, then Lefty and other tarpon guides I knew back then like Fordyce and experts like Andy Mills. Believe me, it made a difference.

    Placing the rod butt handle to your hip, both handles on the cork handle (and NOT touching the rod) and keeping the rod pointing directly at the fish, then rotation your whole body to the side will, to 30 degrees and then quickly really back down and repeating the process, will use the power of the rod, which is the butt section of the rod (not the mid section and not the tip section), thereby applying max pressure on the fish.

    Here's an example of me helping a buddy with those techniques to quickly land a big tarpon in 25ft deep of water in 15-20mins using a Hardy Pro-Axis 12wt and a Tibor Guldstream with only 300yrs of backing. That fish maybe only ran 100yrds before we got her to stop. Never cranked the boat to chase her.

    The Drag: - I like to set the drag a little tighter than you think, especially in open water, tight enough to slow down the fish, but loose enough to protect the tippet. If you can only use very light tippet to get the fish to eat, then that is one thing. But if you can use a good fluorocarbon tippet with a short piece of FC bite leader and thereby increase the tippet lb test rating (say to 15lbs), then you can put more heat on the fish. More heat = shorter runs and quicker landings.

    The rod: Would you chase small brook trout in a stream with an 8wt? That's more of a 3wt or less rod to use to be effective. Likewise, it's one thing to have fun with small spanish macks on fly and then only use a 6wt on calm days to do so, especially inshore of near shore. However, if you are offshore further, the water is deeper and the fish tend to run larger, then a 6wt doesn't really have the backbone to lift the fish, keep a somewhat reasonable short leash on them and get them in quick enough to not over exhaust them (not to mention the chance of encountering something else like you have in the past). Even with the big spanash macks and smaller albies, I'm using an 8wt on a clam day. If I have big spanish, big albies/little tunnies, dolphin chicks and the chance of a small king, then it's an 9wt for sure. If the albies are very big, kings, big cobes, medium size dolphin, small to mid AJ's, blackfins, etc, then it's a 10wt fo sho! Anything bigger than that, the rod weight should go up from there for offshore pelagics. Bluefins? I have no clue but I met a couple of guys years ago that uses 13-15wts min for those fish and even then, they were small ones under 100lbs up in Maine.

    "The right tool for the right job!


    If you are not using the right tool, then you are either over compensating with something else (in your case, it's the backing) or killing the fish in the end.

    Just food for thought! ;)

    Ted Haas
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2018
  4. G_straus822

    G_straus822 Well-Known Member

    Just got my new tarpon setup!

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