"The Plytanic 2.0" FS17 Build

Discussion in 'Bragging Spot' started by firecat1981, Nov 5, 2017.

  1. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Thanks, but I might be a little to far down the rabbit hole for that now. I did have a similar idea to use the plumb Bob that I might still try. It will be easier to use straight edges and line up the centerline of each frame. Being 1/4" off isn't super critical for this method of building, if it were cold molding it would be, but I'll still correct it.
     
  2. Cut Runner

    Cut Runner Active Member

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    She can't have a crooked nose!
    I'm glad you went with the fs17.
     

  3. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Lol, I promise she will be fixed up. I'm glad I finally get to start after 2 years of delays. At least this one will be able to make it out of the Stuart inlet.
     
  4. Cut Runner

    Cut Runner Active Member

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    Lol Stuart is the benchmark.
    Anyways, I reread through your link on page one to give myself a refresher. Did you plan on trying to make the boat self bailing?, fill it with foam? I know fuel tank placement came up very often in the discussion. Do you think if you put a crown on the floor it might give you little extra height to squeak a long skinny tank down in her keel? Trust me, I know where your coming from on space issues... either way you got a little ways to go before you get to that point. Rock on
     
  5. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    She will absolutely be self bailing and foam filled to a certain extent. I'm raising the sole an inch, when all said and done with the hull full of gas and LW water, I'll still be able to float an extra 750lbs or so. The below deck isn' written off, I'll wait until I flip the hull and remeasure everything. However it's not high on my priority list. Even using the portable tank I'll still have more storage then I do now.
     
    Smackdaddy53 likes this.
  6. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I picked up all my supplies yesterday! 16 sheets of ply, 9 gallons of epoxy, 40+ yards of glass, lots of fillers, and paint……

    There's a long drunken story that went along with it, lets just say I had to apologize to some people for my friends and I'll be traveling alone to get supplies from now on, lol.
     
  7. CodyW

    CodyW Well-Known Member

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    Let's hear it!!
     
  8. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I realized I goofed up when I went to put the motorwell sides in. The plans call for the transom to be 3/8" with the clamping board being 1.5". I've been assured this is more then strong enough, but being I'm hanging a heavy 4-stroke 60hp on the back I want to make the transom 3/4" thick. It means just extending the second layer of 3/8" all the way down. It will add maybe 3lbs but increase the strength greatly.

    I overlooked this on the strong back, and cut the motorwell sides wrong too. Not a big deal, plenty of osb left and I can just trim off another 3/8" off the strong back.
     
  9. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I got the motorwells fitted up after I trimmed the ends of the strongback. I kept thinking I got the measurements wrong until I went back to the plans that and saw they added an extra 1/8" to the notch, I'm guessing for adjustment is needed.
    [​IMG]20171114_143341_resized , on Flickr

    I spent a little time realigning every frame. It is all now lined up to within a 1/16" or so.
    [​IMG]20171114_143405_resized , on Flickr
     
  10. yobata

    yobata I Love microskiff.com!

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    So the transom will be 3/4" (by stacking 2 3/8" pieces) and then 1.5" just the top half where the motor clamps/bolts? Do you just add one more piece of 3/4" or two more 3/8" pieces?

    Why not just make the whole thing 1.5" from two 3/4" pieces? How much more weight is that and can you live with it for piece of mind?
     
  11. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    The transom as designed is one sheet of 3/8" the full size, the 3 more layers of 3/8" across the top half for the clamping board. It' a tried and true design and has never failed. I'm told it would be strong enough to hold upwards of 100hp, I just was not comfortable with it. So now it will be 2 full layers of 3/8" making it 3/4", and then 2 more layers across the top half making the clamping board 1.5" as designed. Could I make them all full length, yes, but I'd burn up a lot more plywood and it' not needed.
     
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  12. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    On my next few days off I'm going to cut the bottom and side patterns out of white hardy board, then trace them out on the good stuff after a quick test.

    I'm trying to get an answer on the real shaft length of a suzuki 60hp so I can adjust the transom accordingly. For example my Yamaha was a 15" shaft, but was really about 17". So I had to build my last transom up so the lower unit didn't drag.
     
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  13. Cut Runner

    Cut Runner Active Member

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    3/4in with 1.5in at the top, is plenty strong, fact is it could handle that without the glass, especially if his floor and stringers butt up against the transom, not to mention the motorwell design adds a lot of strength as well. I'm rebuilding a 25 footer and it's got 2 layers of 3/4, and 5 layers of 1708 on each side with 1.5csm between biax layers.
     
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  14. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Now that I got an answer to the shaft height on the motor I can cut the transom out.

    I got most of the panels cut out of the white hardy board ready to transfer to the expensive stuff. On a side note, while the white makes everything easier to see, nothing sticks to it well. Including sharpie or paint pens. So I would have to draw stuff out and wait 5 minutes for it to dry, or else it would smear.
    [​IMG]20171116_121758_resized (1) , on Flickr
     
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  15. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I'very hit a roadblock. My stringers don't line up correctly. They are off by as much as 7/16" going foward, so I need to figure it out or the floor won't' drain. I spent all day yesterday trying to track it down, but every measurement is within 1/8" and all the baselines are near perfectly lined up. I'm' stumped