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BBA Counselor
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Discussion Starter #702
Trust me I'm pretty close to doing that and joining a boat club. My buddy just did a split plan with CareFree, worked out to $1750 down and $150 a month for the no black out plan for him. Boats up to 25ft I think. He's having a blast and only has to cover fuel, I may have screwed up.

But I gotta finish this damn boat. If nothing else it's just practice for the next one in a few years, but I have much different plans for that.
 

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Brandon, FL
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What paint was this and what pigment did you use?
 

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BBA Counselor
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Discussion Starter #704
Brightsides, and the same FGCI pigment I've been using for years. This cursed boat just won't go down without a fight.
 

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Trust me I'm pretty close to doing that and joining a boat club. My buddy just did a split plan with CareFree, worked out to $1750 down and $150 a month for the no black out plan for him. Boats up to 25ft I think. He's having a blast and only has to cover fuel, I may have screwed up.

But I gotta finish this damn boat. If nothing else it's just practice for the next one in a few years, but I have much different plans for that.
You must be spending a small fortune on paint and resin, yeah why not join a boat club? That sounds really reasonable for sure.

Next build should go real smooth if you can just figure out a paint "system" that works for you and stick with it, but finding that winning combination always takes time.

The Brightside finish looks great from that picture - can you just paint without adding the pigment, or are too many other areas painted with pigment already?
 

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Brandon, FL
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Brightsides, and the same FGCI pigment I've been using for years. This cursed boat just won't go down without a fight.
Why did you decide to use pigments and not buy a premixed color?

The pigments FGCI sells are made from polyester resins. Typically polyester and polyurethane typically don't play well together.

All polyester pigments can be used with the ester resins. Some polyester pigments can be used with polyester and epoxy resins. Epoxy pigments can be used with epoxy resins but epoxy pigment can not be used with ester resins. I have not heard of any polyester pigments which are compatible with polyurethane paint other than polyurethane pigments.

I certainly could be wrong though.
 

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BBA Counselor
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Discussion Starter #707
The pigment was added to the gallon, so it means replacing everything again. I used it to tint brightsides before and didn't have any issues. It mixed very well into the rustoleum I used for the compartments and bilge. I did it this way because I wanted ice blue. For some reason most companies don't make the most popular colors.
If I go with rustoleum then I can have the store tint it and be done.
 

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The pigment was added to the gallon, so it means replacing everything again. I used it to tint brightsides before and didn't have any issues. It mixed very well into the rustoleum I used for the compartments and bilge. I did it this way because I wanted ice blue. For some reason most companies don't make the most popular colors.
If I go with rustoleum then I can have the store tint it and be done.
Yeah, I found Interlux's color selection somewhat limited too.

I looked at a Brightside instructions PDF and there doesn't seem to be any option to spray it like you were talking about, appears to be roll only right? Can you spray the rust-oleum?
 

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Discussion Starter #709
Interlux sells a specific spray reducer and their are instructions on the can. I've sprayed rustoleum on small projects in the past with decent results.
 

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Interlux sells a specific spray reducer and their are instructions on the can. I've sprayed rustoleum on small projects in the past with decent results.
Yes, you're right, I just saw the correct Brightside "Technical Data" sheet which does actually give spraying instructions.

Whats your next move on the paint - Brightside or Rust-Oleum?
 

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Discussion Starter #711
I think Rustoleum if I can find it locally. Part of my issue is I also went through more brushing reducer then I thought, so I'd need to get more too. If I can find Rustoleum marine locally I'll just go with it. I can thin it with mineral spirits, add hardener if need be, and I've used it before.
It lasted 9 years on my last skiff with minimal wear through in a few areas, like where the cooler slides.
 

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Rural King has it . add catalyst ...
 

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Discussion Starter #713
I got the catalyst from tractor supply, but there's no rural king near me. I picked up some rustoleum to mix and spray on the hatch lids to try out.
There's more to the paint info/story that I'll post up later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #714
So it’s been a bit since I posted and I’ve been running down some ideas and issues. The paint has been a pain in my butt obviously, but I’m looking at this as an opportunity so try some stuff out. I’m setting up as best I can to spray. Yes, there will be some dust in it and no, it won’t look professional. That’s ok, I don’t really care anymore. So last we spoke I messed up by adding the wrong pigment to my paint. At least that’s what I’m going with although it worked previously. So I’m shelving that and moving on.


So I thought if I’m spraying then maybe I will try to get the EMC quantum to work. I tried calling their tech line, but they don’t have one, emails only. After days of waiting for answers I called FGCI where I bought it to ask some questions. They told me they stopped selling it shortly after I bought mine. After a bunch of customer complaints and in house trials they pulled it off the shelf.

Tech support from EMC finally got back to me after a week. I asked about the adhesion issue. The tech insisted I missed the recoat window which is up to 12 hours, and I think I painted about 7. She gave me some other BS about heat, but I reminded her their speced temp range is up to 95 degrees. Then she said it must be humidity, but I reminded her they do not spec a humidity range. Anyway, I wanted to know if I could adjust the ratio to spray instead of rolling, but the tech said I would need to buy a different activator. At this point I’m really just giving up on it, I might use it on something non essential later on.

Crazy thing to me is this paint is completely bonded to the plastic tray liner I used, I can fold it and it won’t even crack, but it wouldn’t bond to itself for some reason?


20200701_115633_resized , on Flickr


So moving on. I used the last of the total protect primer on the hatches. These did not need to be perfect as the bottoms I don’t care about, and the tops will mostly be covered with nonskid. With the exception of the console hatch.


20200717_065233_resized , on Flickr


I decided to just go with Rustoleum paint with enamel hardener added. I did this on my last boat and it held up better than expected for 9 years. Also no more pigments. I bought a can of blue and used just 15cc’s to tint white to a dark ice blue. I’m doing the hatches first as a test and to figure out the spray gun. The first coat was orange peel city, lol, but not horrible.


20200725_123229_resized by kevin lefkowitz, on Flickr


The second coat went on much better and smoothed things out. Not to bad I think.


20200727_132903_resized , on Flickr


This is the gun rig I made to fill and hang it. They didn’t have one at the store so I made a temp rig out of old wire hangers. It works for now. I had to get creative with the adapters I had to get everything to work and be maneuverable. I’ll swap them out once I get to the store again.


20200728_105045_resized , on Flickr


So this brings me to my latest issue. Not a huge one and it will work out. I went to set up the gun and all of a sudden I couldn’t get more then 20psi at the gun. After an hour plus of trouble shooting I found the issue. I installed a dryer/filter a few days ago, and it failed already. I wanted to push on so I removed it as I had a ball filter on also.


20200728_144708_resized , on Flickr


So even with the ball filter on, apparently the Florida humidity got to me today. I rained yesterday, and we didn’t have a ton of sun today. Well live and learn, I need a better drier/water separator. So the more I sprayed the worse it got. Not a huge deal, but the one I needed to come out the best happened to be the last one I shot, lol. I will sand and reshoot with better equipment.


20200728_143705_resized , on Flickr

So far I’m happier with the rustoleum, we will see it that continues.
 

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Firecat, you may find this interesting; I have Perfection paint and PrimeKote primer which were last opened/used about 3-months ago and stored in my garage since then (80-90 degrees); I just checked and both cans of hardener are still completely liquid, almost to water consistency. Was expecting them to be rock solid based on your experiences. I did wrap both cans in ziplock bags and tape up airtight after use.

Maybe they will eventually harden up, but I just found that really interesting - wondering if people who have all these issues just have air leakage somewhere? I do pound the lids down pretty good with a hammer, then tape up like mentioned etc.
 

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So this brings me to my latest issue. Not a huge one and it will work out. I went to set up the gun and all of a sudden I couldn’t get more then 20psi at the gun. After an hour plus of trouble shooting I found the issue. I installed a dryer/filter a few days ago, and it failed already. I wanted to push on so I removed it as I had a ball filter on also.
Is that filter re-usable though? I've always preferred the disposable ones for these reasons; you can also pull the plug on your air compressor to drain any internal water out underneath it before filling with air if you are worried about water.

So even with the ball filter on, apparently the Florida humidity got to me today. I rained yesterday, and we didn’t have a ton of sun today. Well live and learn, I need a better drier/water separator. So the more I sprayed the worse it got. Not a huge deal, but the one I needed to come out the best happened to be the last one I shot, lol. I will sand and reshoot with better equipment.
I have never experienced orange peel due to water, its really only a product of air pressure - and distance (which equates to air pressure). I shoot with the nozzle around 6-7" from surface and go fast (rather than shooting farther away and going slow); that was really the key for me personally.

Panels look great from what we can see in the pics, always helps to have a paint system you trust and have experience with like that.
 

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BBA Counselor
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Discussion Starter #717
The desiccant filter is disposable, you get rid of it after the beads change color, but it developed a clog before I got to that point. On top of that I had a disposable ball filter. The disposable filter was not enough to filter out the amount of moisture.
I drained the tank of all the water before starting, but it builds fast as it cycles. I need to get a good water trap, maybe even 2, and a filter. Painting in the spring is no issue, but summer sucks.
I'm not really having orange peel issues. Look at the last pic closer. You'll see tons of pockmarks, or tiny fish eyes. Thats the moisture. No biggie, I'll reshoot it and it will be fine.

As far as Perfection goes, I don't know why yours didn't gel. My cans were sealed up tight. I do know some guys put plastic inside to take up vapor space, or even sprayed nitrogen in the can and slapped the lid on. Either way its not worth it to me. If I go back to a 2 part product it will most likely be alexseal.
 

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Discussion Starter #718
I went at it again today, with mixed results, but not to bad. I bought another water separator for my compressor. So I had a full size seperator, backed up by a second mini separator. Then a short 3ft hose that had an inline desiccant filter and a ball filter before the second regulator and gun. Crap that's a lot of stuff huh, lol. I also attached the new remote drain valve kit.

Well the desiccant filter failed again. I couldn't get more then 25psi out of it so I had to quickly disconnect it and start spraying. I had just one hiccup. A water spot in the last hatch, but it's were the nonskid is going. I ordered a new mounted desiccant filter with the reusable beads as it was recommended. This should take care of the rest of the water issues.

Outside of that I think I'm going to switch back to mineral spirits for thinning. I know guys like acetone for spraying rustoleum because it dries faster, but at 90 degrees it's not an issue, and I think it will benefit from additional flow out. Assuming I finish the last coat on the hatches this weekend, I will sand and prep next week to do the bulk of the remaining painting.
 

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Brandon, FL
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Why all the moisture? Condensation happens between hot and cold and it is certainly not cold.

Are you sure you got all the moisture out? Something not right with the amount of water your getting.
 

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Discussion Starter #720
Extremely hot and humid garage. When you take 90+% humidity and compress it you turn vapor in to water. I never have issues except in the summer.
 
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