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Sorry to hear of your ongoing issues with this build. You are obviously a considerably more patient individual than myself. I would have worked it over with the front end loader on my Kubota long ago.

That being said, you deserve much credit for your steadfast determination and honest transparency. Hopefully you’ll be rewarded with many fine memories once your on the water.
 

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Discussion Starter #682
My wife deserves the credit for pushing me. Truth be told I think she feels guilty. I was going to scrap the project 2+ years ago, but she got mad and kept on me to keep going because of the money I spent to that point. Neither of us knew then that it would go on for years further and cost 3 times more. Every time I come in cussing from the garage she does something nice. I typically get more annoyed at that point cause I know why she's being nice, lol
 

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I had considered the EMC Quantum too as Boatworks Today seemed to really like it (although he also loves Soft-Sand non-skid - which absolutely ruined my first paint job - so I'm in the same camp - had to paint Perfection twice...).

 

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Firecat, after reading the build, I found it interesting how you are heating up the wood before covering in epoxy - and how you say pretty much any wood can be made to work like this; are there any readily available small trim type woods (like from Lowes/Home Depot) which you have found work well? Thinking of using this method for some non-structural trim type pieces that would be fully covered in epoxy.
 

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Discussion Starter #685
I had considered the EMC Quantum too as Boatworks Today seemed to really like it (although he also loves Soft-Sand non-skid - which absolutely ruined my first paint job - so I'm in the same camp - had to paint Perfection twice...).

He just did a quick test panel, and still didn't love it's finish. In other vids he compared it to alexseal and liked the latter more. I'd love to see his opinion after having to roll 5 coats on a boat. As far as soft sand goes, no thanks, I felt a sample at a show and I don’t think it will hold up as long as the other products out there under a catalyzed paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #686
Firecat, after reading the build, I found it interesting how you are heating up the wood before covering in epoxy - and how you say pretty much any wood can be made to work like this; are there any readily available small trim type woods (like from Lowes/Home Depot) which you have found work well? Thinking of using this method for some non-structural trim type pieces that would be fully covered in epoxy.
I think most woods would work out ok. Hard woods do not absorb epoxy well, but i didn't play with them under heat. I was mostly using pine, but cedar will work out well to I think. As long as its dry it should absorb all east twice the resin when heated to 30 degrees or so above ambient temps.
 

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I think most woods would work out ok. Hard woods do not absorb epoxy well, but i didn't play with them under heat. I was mostly using pine, but cedar will work out well to I think. As long as its dry it should absorb all east twice the resin when heated to 30 degrees or so above ambient temps.
Thanks, definitely going to try this heat method; have you ever tried epoxy on Maple?
 

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He just did a quick test panel, and still didn't love it's finish. In other vids he compared it to alexseal and liked the latter more. I'd love to see his opinion after having to roll 5 coats on a boat. As far as soft sand goes, no thanks, I felt a sample at a show and I don’t think it will hold up as long as the other products out there under a catalyzed paint.
Yes, the Soft Sand seemed good in theory, but the particles are just huge and its really not that soft at all once painted on.
 

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Discussion Starter #689
The medium grain pumice is pretty course too, so I'm going with fine. I haven't tried to use epoxy on maple, but if it can be used on oak, walnut and teak I think it work work out. Grab a board and make samples.
 

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I've put in some hours this week sanding, priming, sanding, and priming, and sanding..... definition of insanity! I don't think it's getting much better. The only thing I plan to use the epoxy primer on now are the hatch lids.

So while planning to paint this week I realized that rolling and tipping, even at 5am and 76 degrees, will be hard by myself to do the whole outside. So I'm gonna break it up a bit. If everything works out I'll put the first coat on the cap in the morning. Once it sets I'll continue sanding the sides, they will be painted in a few days.
That's the plan, I'm sure it will go sideways. Next project I will just spray it all at once.
 

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I've put in some hours this week sanding, priming, sanding, and priming, and sanding..... definition of insanity! I don't think it's getting much better.
Yeah, doesn't sound fun!

So while planning to paint this week I realized that rolling and tipping, even at 5am and 76 degrees, will be hard by myself to do the whole outside.
You may want to experiment with rolling in the hotter temps if it can make your life easier; oddly enough I feel like my Interlux Perfection laid down best in 90-degree temp with direct sunlight (very little reducer used - just a tiny splash).
 

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It will lay down better, but it will tack over before you can blend your edges well. Dry to touch is only like an hour at 90 degrees, meaning work time might be 10-15 minutes. Last few times I used this paint it went better at night.
 

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It will lay down better, but it will tack over before you can blend your edges well. Dry to touch is only like an hour at 90 degrees, meaning work time might be 10-15 minutes. Last few times I used this paint it went better at night.
I would put the "ideal" working time at about 30-seconds at 90-degrees, beyond that and the finish wouldn't blend as seamlessly when rolling (no tipping).

If you have to tip then that would be kind of a pain, guess you would want cooler night temperatures like you are saying so you could go back minutes later.
 

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Discussion Starter #694
The more work time the better. Especially for blending corners and edges. Spraying doesn't matter, but with roll and tip its the way to go.
 

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So maybe to much work time, lol. Actually work time was what I thought, dry to touch though hasn't happened yet. I woke up at 5am and went to work, done with the cap by 7am. Even though it was 74 outside, my garage retains heat so it was near 80. At 75 degrees it should dry to the touch in 2 hours. Here we are 3 hours later and its still wet. And its getting a ton of dust, and a few bugs. I was hoping it would be dry to the touch by now so I could start working on the sides, but with it wet I need to stay away.

It will be good enough, but truth be told I'm kind of regretting my purchase, again. Seeing how much dust it's getting, because it's to big to set up a makeshift paintbrush that works right, I wish I went with rustoleum. No its not a better paint, but it is polishable so I'd be able to deal more with dust. Oh well, moving on.
 

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When was the last time you washed it with soap and water?
 

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Discussion Starter #697
Last night. Got a bath. Then a wipe down. It dried fine, just took a few hours longer.
 

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So maybe to much work time, lol. Actually work time was what I thought, dry to touch though hasn't happened yet. I woke up at 5am and went to work, done with the cap by 7am. Even though it was 74 outside, my garage retains heat so it was near 80. At 75 degrees it should dry to the touch in 2 hours. Here we are 3 hours later and its still wet. And its getting a ton of dust, and a few bugs. I was hoping it would be dry to the touch by now so I could start working on the sides, but with it wet I need to stay away.

It will be good enough, but truth be told I'm kind of regretting my purchase, again. Seeing how much dust it's getting, because it's to big to set up a makeshift paintbrush that works right, I wish I went with rustoleum. No its not a better paint, but it is polishable so I'd be able to deal more with dust. Oh well, moving on.
That sucks that your having ongoing paint issues. Spoke to Interlux by phone and they told me to paint between 10am-3pm to avoid dew and these other issues you are running into - and by sticking within those hours you would only apply 1-coat per day.

When I used to paint cars I would sometimes spray the cement down around the car with a hose before shooting the paint, cut down dust & debris.
 

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Discussion Starter #699
I used a pump sprayer to wet the floor a bit, by 10am it's 88-90 in the garage, and by 3 it's 96. Obviously using big fans is not an option when painting, do its either early morning or nothing. I only plan on a coat every 2 days or so, but breaking it up like this will take a while. My original timeliness had me painting in the early spring, 2.5 years ago.
 

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Well Shallows, your theory turned out not so well. I tried painting a little later today. I started around 8am, and ended around 11am, but it did not go any better. It actually tacked over faster and made painting much harder no matter how much brushing thinner I used. It's just way to hot to be doing this now. The days are to hot and the nights and early mornings are to humid.

I have 2 options. #1 the smart thing to do is shelve it for a few months until cooler weather comes around. #2 just slap some paint on it to get it done so I can fish already. Obviously I'm not going with option #1.

Outside of not applying well I ran into another issue. The paint is very streaky like it is rejecting the pigment. The tint I pigment I used is the same that I have used before on resins, and other paints (rustoleum, perfection, and a trial with an old can of brightsides). Never had any issues until now.

150606


Those white streaks in the middle are not glare. So FML, lol.

It sucks, but I gotta move on. I have one more play, and that is the Rustoleum marine. I think I might just go buy a cheap spray gun, and give it a go. It can't be any worse right? I don't think I'll be able to roll and tip in this weather.
 
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