The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 build 2.0

Discussion in 'Bragging Spot' started by firecat1981, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    FS17 build, Take 2, lol. As some of you guys know I ran into some trouble building my last strong back and frames. I had something off to where I couldn't line up the stringers correctly. This could be because I tried to modify the stringer height, or transom thickness. Either way it bothered me enough to where I just wanted to start over. I'm going to build the shell to plans then make some modifications after the hull is flipped over. I requested the last thread be deleted so guys don't get confused

    So the last strong back I tried using 2x4x8's as they were the best thing I could find. Even though I leveled and straightened them as best as I could I can't be sure the issue wasn't there. I'm not willing to try that again so I decided to build my own strong back runners.

    I got a piece of Sanded ply. Cut it into 6" strips and laminated it together.
    [​IMG]20171120_134125_resized , on Flickr

    [​IMG]20171120_152842_resized , on Flickr

    Even after all that I wasn't 100% happy, so I snapped a chalk line and cut them down to 5.5". This is as straight as I can possibly get it!
    [​IMG]20171121_110751_resized , on Flickr

    A couple of notes here. I was amazed how many screws I used building the previous strong back. If you think you have enough, double it.
    Also I went to go buy one of those big nice drywall squares to cut my new frames with. Well they are pinned together parts to make the 90 degrees, which I don't like, I wanted a one piece tool. I decided to check them prior to buying, and by the time you are 48" out they were at least 3/16" off! I guess drywall doesn't need to be that accurate, but I'll stick to a t-square and ruler.
     
  2. Smackdaddy53

    Smackdaddy53 Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!

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    You need a table saw brother! That plywood will stay true. If I ever build a boat the strongback will be made from versalam beams.
     

  3. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I have one, but it's a pos. What I need is a perfectly level 18ft long work table to laminate on, instead of a wavy garage floor. It's all good now.

    I was hoping to get a lot done today, but the kids are off of school. I did manage to get the strong back finished.
    [​IMG]20171121_140728_resized , on Flickr

    It is square to withing 1/16", and level across 6 fields length wise and 4 across the beam. I don't think I can get it any closer.
    [​IMG]20171121_154151_resized , on Flickr
     
  4. noeettica

    noeettica Well-Known Member

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    I have a killer table saw I will Lease it to you for FREE ...

    Loving this build , and admire your patience and skills :)
     
  5. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Thanks, I'll keep it in mind.
     
  6. jonrconner

    jonrconner I Love microskiff.com!

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    Looks like you’re off to a good start, I would suggest a water level to get everything dead on, it’s just a water bottle and a long piece of plastic tubing, you can leave it in place for your whole build and check things as you go along with dead accuracy.
    JC
     
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  7. anytide

    anytide Administrator Staff Member

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    plywood is your best friend as far as square. check it with a cross measurement or plythetic theorem..
    and make your own large speed/T-squares from a sheet.
     
  8. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Since I wasn't going to work much on it over the holidays, I broke down and bought a laser level. More to come.
     
  9. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I was able to sneak out to the garage for a bit. I was able to finish cutting out the frames. I forgot how much heavier MDF is then plywood or OSB, and it cuts slower, but it's done.

    [​IMG]20171126_161842_001_resized , on Flickr

    Everything lines up well, like last time
    [​IMG]20171126_175059_resized , on Flickr

    I also cut out the new test stringer. I put the laser level to good use. I know this one is straight and to plans.
    [​IMG]20171126_160845_resized , on Flickr

    I'll be gone the next few days, but hopefully I'll get the frames up by weeks end.
     
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  10. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Well I'm basically back to where I was before I started over. I used the laser level to line everything up. I'm not sure if it really made anything easier as it took a while to setup.
    [​IMG]20171129_134604_resized , on Flickr

    Everything is all lined up and ready for the next step.
    [​IMG]20171129_154830_resized , on Flickr

    [​IMG]20171129_160358_resized , on Flickr

    Stringers are a little off still, but close enough.
     
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  11. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Not to much to report just yet. I cut out the first layer of the transom, but came into some question regarding the size of the clamping board. After some chatting back and forth I determined the best course of action is to go back to my original plan of extending one of the layers to full length, and then making sure the clamping board extends down a few more inches. This should give me more then a big enough clamping board to do what I need and increase the strength of the transom quite a bit.

    [​IMG]20171130_090935_resized (1) , on Flickr

    As far as the stringers are concerned, I'm going to keep them the same for now. I figure moving them up 3/8" will not effect the height much. If it changes the height by 1/64" I would be surprised. I have some days off coming up, it's time to get moving on this.
     
  12. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Not to much progress as I slowed down a bit to finish the transom. Unfortunately I'm working in tighter quarters because my garage is loaded down so I have to hurry up and wait for the resin.

    Yesterday I cut out the second layer of the transom and the 2 layers for the clamping board using a router so they match closely. Today I am working on laminating everything. I always start with a thin coat of neat epoxy that I let set for at least 20 minutes. I see a lot of guys skip this step and have issues later because the wood soaks up so much and can rob epoxy from glass and other things.
    [​IMG]20171205_094759_resized , on Flickr

    I loaded on the thickened epoxy, spread with a notched trowel and weighed down the clamping boards. I used a mix of wood flour, milled fibers, and silica for the mix. I'll need to do 3 separate bondings to make sure it comes out well. Transom panel to transom panel, clamping board to clamping board, then clamping board to transom. The first two are setting up now.
    [​IMG]20171205_105223_resized , on Flickr

    I've never used MarineEpoxy before but seems to work well. My only complaint, and it's minor, is the color of the resin, or lack there of. Both the hardener and base are nearly clear, so when rushing you still really need to pay attention. I'm used to the hardener being honey colored, so I might need to switch back for any bright work I do to get the look I want.

    Here's a tip I learned. Always keep your roller or brush until everything is cured. It's a great indicator that everything is going right and lets you quickly see what stage everything is in without putting finger marks in your glass. I just keep mine in the glove I take off, when it's rock solid it goes in the trash.
    [​IMG]20171205_094920_resized , on Flickr
     
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  13. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Here is the transom all laminated together. It's pretty stout and once the glass is added I'm sure this thing could handle any power I toss at it.
    [​IMG]20171206_082630_resized , on Flickr

    Here it is clamped in place. I can't imagine getting it more lined up, so I'm happy with it.
    [​IMG]20171206_092738_resized , on Flickr

    I then got the bottom panels cut out. Unfortunately I ran into a snag here, the plywood warped a bit. I couldn't line up the panel ends well, the best I could do is wet out the Biaxial cloth and weigh it down with a piece of MDF. It worked ok, but I'm not super happy with the results. It will allow me to do the other side well, then I may revisit it.
    [​IMG]20171206_121528_resized , on Flickr
     
  14. Hoyt_Dow

    Hoyt_Dow I Love microskiff.com!

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  15. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Thanks, it' been a challenge this time around, but once the hull panels are on things should smooth out a bit.
     
  16. WhiteDog70810

    WhiteDog70810 Mostly Harmless

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    What the hell? I figured you'd be done with this by now.

    Nate
     
  17. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    Seriously Nate, I think it's harder for me to work from plans. There are a lot more rules that you just need to trust, and I've ran into a lot of issues. The trade off is I know this design is tried and true, and will be great in the end, just need to get past the basic shaping stage.

    Well you can account for many things, but you can't stop mother nature. It's a wet cool day, but I'm gonna try and push on, just can't work outside of the garage.

    I tossed the bottom panels up. Finally get to start seeing what will be. I've got a pinch point in the keel, I'll just need to smooth is out a little before final stitching.
    [​IMG]20171207_084926_resized , on Flickr

    The first side of glass didn't come out awesome, but it's not the worse either. I'll do an overcoat of neat epoxy to see it it can fill in a few small voids in the weave, if not I'll grind them out later.
    [​IMG]20171207_084947_resized , on Flickr

    I'm starting to bond the side panels together. I'll have to do it in multiple laminations because of the weather and space available.
    [​IMG]20171207_094809_resized , on Flickr

    I'm going to work on a few small projects just to get ready soon, like the drain tube and rounded live well ends in the next few days.
     
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  18. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I ran out soon after my last post because I got a email about a sale at Lowes. A little while later I ended up with a new toy for $49
    [​IMG]20171207_131426 , on Flickr


    This resin is much slower then I figured so I have to wait a bit longer. I got the medium hardener, it gives me about 12-15 minutes work time, but takes about 6-7 hours to harden. It's been between 72-81 degrees this week so far. I'm glad I didn't option for the slow hardener, but I think the fast might have to little work time so the medium will work out fine.

    Since I have some extra time between the resin drying I tackled a small project. Let me start by saying I hate brass drain tubes. I had one on my old gheenoe and it always leaked. I get why they exist, but since we put so much time into our boats why not make a better drain tube? I've done this on my last few boats and it works out great with no chance of leaking around the tube.

    I start with a 1" dowel, then sand about 1\16" off so the plug fits well, and because wrapping it in plastic adds thickness back.
    [​IMG]20171207_132910 , on Flickr

    Wrapped in plastic, I only need about a 1.5" section so I make one 4" long with room to trim.
    [​IMG]20171207_134533 , on Flickr

    I wrapped the glass around and secured with some tape. I used scraps I had around. I think I ended up with 2 layers of veil cloth, and 3 layers of 9oz cloth.
    [​IMG]20171207_135656 , on Flickr

    I wet it out with tinted resin. Since my boat will be ice blue I tried to match it using white and blue tint. Make sure to apply the resin and roll it out the same direction you wrapped it.
    [​IMG]20171207_141525 , on Flickr

    Once it's cured and I'm ready for it I will drill an oversize hole and bed it with thickened epoxy. I'll leave at least 1/8" hanging out and sand it flush once cured.
     
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  19. yobata

    yobata I Love microskiff.com!

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    What are you tinting your resin with?
     
  20. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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