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Texas tunnel Conchfish

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I have watched lots of builds on here and instagram and it has really motivated me to build a Conchfish. After lots of months of watching, within the last few weeks i sold my Towee, bout the plans from Chris and bought some second hand used stations from another guy in Texas. They were cnc cut by Josh Glidden, and very nice. I’m happy to have bought them used. It saved me a ton of time and it’s much more accurate than I could have cut, plus they get to make a second boat

Iam going to keep a conversation going here for anyone interested. I’ll be doing my best to post lots of pictures, updates, and I’ll definitely be having lots of questions.

Some details on the direction I’m planning to take it.
-Conchfish 17.8 with tunnel
-all composite (carbon core)
-I will probably go epoxy/ poly or vinyl/ poly
-small side console
-Yamaha 40
-full floor with front and rear hatches
-12v removable trolling motor

I live in west Texas, so no salt right around me. I do make it down to the Texas coast at least several times a year and I bass fish a lot where I live.

may 16, 2022. I got my shop electric finished yesterday and got lumber to start the strong back. Spent a couple hours designing it in my head and got some boards cut. It will sit about 22 inches off the shop floor.

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I would say flush, especially if you have a motor that can be dropped a hole if needed. Not the smaller clamp on style. That way you get the most out of the jackplate without having to move it.
Flush because the hydraulic fittings for steering cylinder usually have very little if any clearance when the outboard is trimmed up enough to be out of the water when poling. Some will actually hit the transom depending on what configuration. Last thing you want is more transom in the way. I’ve added jackplates to some skiffs and the outboard had to be lifted to the highest holes and fittings had to be tweaked so they didn’t hit.
 

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Read my other post #102 explaining why.
Ah, good point. That was one of the downsides of where my Atlas was mounted. My trim switch got stuck when I was all the way down and chipped my gelcoat when I first got it.

I should've just stopped with "smack definitely knows more than me" and I'd have been right.
 

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Kinda off subject of the boat boat, which is looking awesome by the way. But, how well does that spray foam insulation do in the shop? I've got a pretty old building, but i've thought about ripping out the walls and old insulation and spraying the whole thing. Then I couldn't get critters in the walls haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
While Smack definitely knows more than me, I'd actually go the other way. When I replaced my atlas with the Bobs i ran into same issue and am having to deal with the motor being a little bit higher (i.e. it reduces the functional range as I can actually get it too high now).
Brad, I think I will have the same scenario as you, with the engine possibly going too high. My baseline as it is now, with the jackplate all the way at the bottom will put the cav plate about an inch above the top of the tunnel. I can't imagine with 6" of travel (jacking all the way up), I would be able to run that high. I could be surprised, but that seems really high. We will see. Of course, as smack mentioned there will be some room for adjustment on the engine to the jackplate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Flush because the hydraulic fittings for steering cylinder usually have very little if any clearance when the outboard is trimmed up enough to be out of the water when poling. Some will actually hit the transom depending on what configuration. Last thing you want is more transom in the way. I’ve added jackplates to some skiffs and the outboard had to be lifted to the highest holes and fittings had to be tweaked so they didn’t hit.
Makes perfect sense, thanks!
 

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Ah, good point. That was one of the downsides of where my Atlas was mounted. My trim switch got stuck when I was all the way down and chipped my gelcoat when I first got it.

I should've just stopped with "smack definitely knows more than me" and I'd have been right.
I’ve chipped a couple of transoms because of the jackplate mounting height in relation to top of transom. One was a Chittum but the owner had already done it before me and I caused no extra damage.
 

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Brad, I think I will have the same scenario as you, with the engine possibly going too high. My baseline as it is now, with the jackplate all the way at the bottom will put the cav plate about an inch above the top of the tunnel. I can't imagine with 6" of travel (jacking all the way up), I would be able to run that high. I could be surprised, but that seems really high. We will see. Of course, as smack mentioned there will be some room for adjustment on the engine to the jackplate.
You can always get a pickup system and run that high…
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Kinda off subject of the boat boat, which is looking awesome by the way. But, how well does that spray foam insulation do in the shop? I've got a pretty old building, but i've thought about ripping out the walls and old insulation and spraying the whole thing. Then I couldn't get critters in the walls haha.
The spray foam is awesome. I also have drive thru garage doors on each end that are insulated that work well. Its the closed cell foam, around 1.5 inches thick if I remember correctly. They sprayed it from the joints on the floor all the way across the entire ceiling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
I would, has been such a great peace of mind running Texas waters. It’s very nice not to chop up habitat and wear out prop, skeg, impeller etc.

Really rounds out a low water running machine.
Definitely will consider a low water pickup. Running all the way jacked up would be awesome.

unrelated, I didn’t post any pictures of my hatch channels. They came out really nice with 2 layers of glass on each side, overlapped on the corners so they have 4 layers. I also made some foam pieces for the corners so they are radiused to the deck opening.

I also got some work done on my side console and support for that, really liking it.
 
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