[Blackdog317]

Hard to compare the two since they were on different skiffs/motors/props. Both worked well and improved performance in a number of ways. (Better holeshot, better water pressure, eliminated cavitation regardless of jack plate setting, slower minimum planing speed, allowed me to jump up and run with the JP maxed-out).

Both have their positives and negatives. The Tran requires drilling, the Shaw might move and cause wear on the lower-unit if not installed properly. One might hit the sponsons. The Tran is easier to customize if needed. Shaw comes in 3 sizes (I think...?). The Tran is cheaper...etc...etc. Personal preference and looks might come into play too.

In my case, BOTH plates dramatically improved performance and made my skiffs much more capable on the water. That opened up more fishing opportunities that were not available before. If needed, the right prop, plate and engine setting can make a big difference if you want to maximize a skiff's ability to (responsibly) get up and run in shallow water.

 

[m32825]

Is the Tran compression plate an option for smaller outboards? I have a 20hp Mercury with a Stingray Jr on it right now. It helps with hole shot and staying on plane at lower speeds, but on plane it is just above the water, which does nothing for keeping water around the prop.

-- Carl

 

[Smackdaddy53]

Is the Tran compression plate an option for smaller outboards? I have a 20hp Mercury with a Stingray Jr on it right now. It helps with hole shot and staying on plane at lower speeds, but on plane it is just above the water, which does nothing for keeping water around the prop.

-- Carl

You want it just above the water. If it’s below it you have a problem.

 

[m32825]

You want it just above the water. If it’s below it you have a problem.

I understand. I've got my current setup dialed in, but I'm wondering if I could go higher without ventilating using a Tran compression plate?

-- Carl

 

[efi2712micro]

The Tran requires drilling

Well, that's a non-starter for me! let's see the shaw. might get it fitted by fibertex themselves to avoid the risk of movement.

 

[elsillo]

What silicone do you guys recommend? The one I used blew off after a couple days of use. I need to put new silicone around the cavplate.

 

[Smackdaddy53]

Black 3M 4200 Fast Cure. Mask off so you keep clean lines and use WD-40 to keep your finger clean and make a nice clean finished joint.
DO NOT USE 5200 unless you never plan on removing it.

 

[Redfisher80]

I used a tube of permatex 100% black silicone.....works great. Like Smack said, use we-40 for a good clean bead. It does not clean up with just water like regular caulk.....it’s good stuff. Cure time was a little less than 24 hours for me. Ordered from amazon.....$14 for a tube.

Redfisher

 

[BudT]

Hey Elsillo,

I saw the pics you posted but just wanted to follow up with you on this. Have you got it dialed in are you any higher than the last pic you posted? Are you happy with the holeshot, shallow performance ect? Couple of other questions - are you running a 15 or 20 inch shaft motor, and what prop are you running, any propwork, cup ect.?? Looks killer from the shots you posted!

 

[elsillo]

Hey Elsillo,

I saw the pics you posted but just wanted to follow up with you on this. Have you got it dialed in are you any higher than the last pic you posted? Are you happy with the holeshot, shallow performance ect? Couple of other questions - are you running a 15 or 20 inch shaft motor, and what prop are you running, any propwork, cup ect.?? Looks killer from the shots you posted!

I am running it as the last picture posted, skiff is running amazing. no need for a tunnel as of now and it will get on plane in around 8" on a boats lengths depending on the bay floor. Tohatsu is a 20" shaft, Current prop is a PT SWC3 14P factory. Only con is that the motor is running so high now that you have to be careful when turning because skiff will slide and not turn as quickly as before.

 

[BudT]

10-4, excellent info. Been talking w/ the guys at Cayo about this issue. So your post has been very helpful in giving me an idea of what I can get away with, thank you for the feedback!

 

[Seymour fish]

I am running it as the last picture posted, skiff is running amazing. no need for a tunnel as of now and it will get on plane in around 8" on a boats lengths depending on the bay floor. Tohatsu is a 20" shaft, Current prop is a PT SWC3 14P factory. Only con is that the motor is running so high now that you have to be careful when turning because skiff will slide and not turn as quickly as before.

What will she do in the sand as far as holeshot and running on plane ?

 

[elsillo]

What will she do in the sand as far as holeshot and running on plane ?

On hard sand I need close to a foot to get on plane, weight up front and tabs down. But once on plane it will run in anything, I have yet to push it so far as to get stuck on hard sand if you see the pic only around 5" of keel and prop are under the hull other half is above hull line. I really don't need to run that low, my project was more than anything to be able to run around 1ft of water without being worried of hitting something and "being able to get out" is my #1 reason.

 

[Seymour fish]

On hard sand I need close to a foot to get on plane, weight up front and tabs down. But once on plane it will run in anything, I have yet to push it so far as to get stuck on hard sand if you see the pic only around 5" of keel and prop are under the hull other half is above hull line. I really don't need to run that low, my project was more than anything to be able to run around 1ft of water without being worried of hitting something and "being able to get out" is my #1 reason.

Dude, that is awesome and as you know will get you to anything that holds fish in LLM

 

[trekker]

@Redfisher80
Great! I will call Tran Sport, I liked the cougar marine because its not bolt on to the lower unit but the owner literally cancelled my order once I advised it was going on a Skiff non-tunnel. Don't understand what he cares about where I stick it as long as I pay for it.

Thats nuts.

 

[Zika]

I used a tube of permatex 100% black silicone.....works great. Like Smack said, use we-40 for a good clean bead. It does not clean up with just water like regular caulk.....it’s good stuff. Cure time was a little less than 24 hours for me. Ordered from amazon.....$14 for a tube.

Redfisher

Liquid dishwashing detergent will do the same thing as far as keeping your finger clear of caulk for a professional finish on the bead. Better for the environment too. I like Dawn.

 

[not2shabby]

Reviving this thread in reference to the low water intake screens that Jack Foreman designed. I talked with Jack yesterday and he is now making them for a variety of motors. I'm getting a set for my 70 2-stroke and will add my experience after installation.

I recently installed the trans sport plate on my outboard. Still trimming and sanding a little bit to make sure it clears the sponsons. Performance is excellent. The plate sat in my garage for a year and I can't believe it took me so long to get it installed. Hole shot, minimum planing speed, performance all the way up on the jack plate, etc. are all greatly improved. It also helps to plane the skiff out and I find myself using tabs less.

 

[EdK13]

Reviving this thread in reference to the low water intake screens that Jack Foreman designed. I talked with Jack yesterday and he is now making them for a variety of motors. I'm getting a set for my 70 2-stroke and will add my experience after installation.

I recently installed the trans sport plate on my outboard. Still trimming and sanding a little bit to make sure it clears the sponsons. Performance is excellent. The plate sat in my garage for a year and I can't believe it took me so long to get it installed. Hole shot, minimum planing speed, performance all the way up on the jack plate, etc. are all greatly improved. It also helps to plane the skiff out and I find myself using tabs less.

View attachment 101290

View attachment 101292

Clean work there...

 

[SomaliPirate]

Reviving this thread in reference to the low water intake screens that Jack Foreman designed. I talked with Jack yesterday and he is now making them for a variety of motors. I'm getting a set for my 70 2-stroke and will add my experience after installation.

I recently installed the trans sport plate on my outboard. Still trimming and sanding a little bit to make sure it clears the sponsons. Performance is excellent. The plate sat in my garage for a year and I can't believe it took me so long to get it installed. Hole shot, minimum planing speed, performance all the way up on the jack plate, etc. are all greatly improved. It also helps to plane the skiff out and I find myself using tabs less.

View attachment 101290

View attachment 101292

Do the screens bolt into the factory locations? Are they better at pickup when the motor is jacked? What's the deal, I'm intrigued.

 

[not2shabby]

Do the screens bolt into the factory locations? Are they better at pickup when the motor is jacked? What's the deal, I'm intrigued.

I don't have mine yet. Jack is hunting in Kansas. Probably freezing.

See earlier posts on this thread for some photos of others using the pickups on the Tohatsu 50 and Suzuki 60. They mount in the factory location and stick out about 1/2" to "scoop" water into the intake. Jack runs them on his Tohatsu and told me it completely solved his overheat alarm running all the way up on the jack plate.