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Discussion Starter #1
So I just wanted to see a couple skiffs currently running cavitation plates. I have heard mixed reviews about this and some "boat shops" refer me to it and others advise to keep away if not running a tunnel.

I know what the plate is for and I have had tunnel bay boats with them, so I am just interested on skiffs with no tunnel.

Now I know many skiffs here must have cavitation plates in Texas and most must be Non-Tunnel. So please feel free to share pics, and performance pros or cons.

(I wanted to place an order in Cougar Marine for one but when I told him it was for my non-tunnel skiff he literally cancelled my order)
 
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Are you having cavitation problems? Just curious why your looking into a plate? I mentioned on another post, some boats do better with them, some do not... tunnel or no tunnel.
 

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Here is a pic of my skiff (non-tunnel). I ordered mine from trans sport boats.....great cav plates....they literally “hold” the water around the prop! Bone stock by adding the plate, I was able to raise my motor all the way up on the jack plate and keep the bite. Without it, raised all the way up, I could barely get on plane and could not do more than 25mph with my Suzuki 60 4 stroke. With it I could get on plane and raise it 2”-3” and get max speed.....34.5mph on my 18’ canyon bay!

Well worth the $200 in my opinion.
One note...I had it gel coated at my local fiberglass shop after I trimmed it for my motor.

Redfisher
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you having cavitation problems? Just curious why your looking into a plate? I mentioned on another post, some boats do better with them, some do not... tunnel or no tunnel.
I recently changed props for a heavy cupped one, everything since then is much better. my only issue if i run my Jackplate too high I get the Temp alarm. I know Cav Plates are meant to hold more water around the prop and intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@Redfisher80
Great! I will call Tran Sport, I liked the cougar marine because its not bolt on to the lower unit but the owner literally cancelled my order once I advised it was going on a Skiff non-tunnel. Don't understand what he cares about where I stick it as long as I pay for it.
 
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10/4, might try a Bob’s nose cone low water pickup. The only down side I can see to the plate would be reduced top speed due to drag but that is it. I’m not 100% sure the plate would solve water pressure/ overheat issues. I know they work pretty good for cavitation/ slipping issues.
 

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I would call Jack Foreman and discuss your set up. He has a great reputation for knowing what prop, motor, boat, jack plate combos work best. He is a prop guru.

All those variables I mentioned are at play so it’s not necessarily just finding a cav plate and you’re done.
 
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His problem at this point is cooling water, while I’ve heard only good things about Jack Forman... I don’t believe a prop will solve that. But, Maybe Jack could answer Whether or not the plate would help with that.
 

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10/4, might try a Bob’s nose cone low water pickup. The only down side I can see to the plate would be reduced top speed due to drag but that is it. I’m not 100% sure the plate would solve water pressure/ overheat issues. I know they work pretty good for cavitation/ slipping issues.
They don’t slow a boat down unless you run the motor too low from what I’ve seen. Top end actually increases due to maximizing efficiency.
 

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Adding a cav plate helped the performance on my last two (non-tunnel) skiffs. Water pressure, holeshot, grip in high speed turns, minimum planing speed, getting up with the jack plate maxed-out, running on plane with the jack plate maxed-out - all improved or were made possible with the plate and the right prop (Baumann or Foreman).

I ran a Shaw-Wing on a Ranger Banshee Extreme and have a Tran plate on a BT Mosquito. Both skiffs had jack pates. Both set-ups worked well. No regrets.

Ranger/Shaw/Baumann
20140531_152922.jpg
20140531_152648-1 (2).jpg
Shaw Wing.jpg


BT/Tran/Foreman
Inked Mosquito on trailer Port.jpg
20170623_204156.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm trying to run my Motor as high as I can without it overheating for short back lake trips here in the LLM, I am not losing grip nor speed currently just get the Temp reading. So my understanding is the Cav Plate should keep the water around the intake to be able to run thru.

My doubt is cavitation plates are designed for tunnel hulls in order to continue the stream of water around the prop when jacked up high. So it's expected that you are always running the cav plate high from the water, but in a Non-Tunnel hull will there be any danger of the front of the cav plate maybe not always being above the water line and causing other issues as they are not meant to be run under the hull per say.
 

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That probably depends on where the cav plate sits (relative to the bottom of the hull) when the motor is at its lowest position. Do you have a jack plate? How high is the motor currently mounted? Attach a picture of your motor from the rear of the boat if you can.
 

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I'm trying to run my Motor as high as I can without it overheating for short back lake trips here in the LLM, I am not losing grip nor speed currently just get the Temp reading. So my understanding is the Cav Plate should keep the water around the intake to be able to run thru.

My doubt is cavitation plates are designed for tunnel hulls in order to continue the stream of water around the prop when jacked up high. So it's expected that you are always running the cav plate high from the water, but in a Non-Tunnel hull will there be any danger of the front of the cav plate maybe not always being above the water line and causing other issues as they are not meant to be run under the hull per say.
I think you are overthinking it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I called Jack and Tran Sport and talked to john the guy that makes the cav plate. I will be adding the Cav plate to the motor and having some custom aluminum Strainers made for increased low water pickup. These two should help make it run skinny **skinnier**, exciting news.
 

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Keep us posted on how it turns out (both mods) as I am having the same issue but in the ULM
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Attach a picture of your motor from the rear of the boat if you can.
Hopefully the performance with both add ons should allow me to raise the motor one Bolt hole and tuck that lowerunit higher up.

JackPlate @Lowest:



JackPlate @Highest:

 

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Looks similar to my Mosquito. I think you will see some improvement with the new plate and prop without any negative effects. Keep us posted.
 

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I recently changed props for a heavy cupped one, everything since then is much better. my only issue if i run my Jackplate too high I get the Temp alarm. I know Cav Plates are meant to hold more water around the prop and intake.
El, seems odd to me you would have overheating with that much lower unit below plane of boat bottom. Do you have a water pressure gauge ? Valuable if you are running the LLM. Another vote for Tran plate
 
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