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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2017 Suzuki 60 that began displaying water pressure issues a few months ago. For the first year of ownership, I could run the motor using only the rabbit ears on the hose without issue. All of a sudden, it would not piss unless I covered the intake on the underside of the cavitation plate. Hmmmm.

Next, my water pressure gauge stopped working. It was stuck on 4 psi. My mechanic replaced the gauge, and my results were similar.

Next, my mechanic checked for clogs in the cooling system. He cleared a clog around the VST, but noted that the water pumping through it was not a steady stream. He is concerned that the "t" for the pressure gauge is down flow of the VST. My thought is that if it were not, the clog may not have been manifested by the gauge.

The motor has always pumped a decent stream of water from the tattle take and has never triggered an alarm. It continues to pump without issue.

I used to see around 2 psi at idle and 9 psi at WOT. I'm now reading 0 and 2, respectively.

I called Suzuki and asked for a cooling system schematic for a 2017 60 hp. They reluctantly said they would "try" to find one and if they did, it would be a minimum of a couple days before they would email me one. They clearly don't want to deal with customers. That is what dealers are for. But the local dealer over charged me the only time I used them, and I would prefer not to use them again.

Any ideas? I feel like there is still a clog somewhere in the system. Perhaps the schematic will eventually shed some light.

Many thanks,
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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If you want to DIY take the powerhead apart and clean the cooling passages.
How adamant are you about flushing your motor as soon after each trip as possible? Once you find the restriction and clean it start flushing with SaltAway or Salt Terminator and you won’t have any more issues.
Once a cooling system has corrosion and salt buildup you really need to physically remove the crud, flushing with chemicals will only get some of it.
Look up my thread about cleaning the cooling passages on my Yamaha from a couple of years ago.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Make sure the sacrificial anodes under the cowling are inspected and replaced. When I had my Suzuki in for annual maintenance recently the tech told me they were shot and debris from their disintegration was impeding water flow and getting clogged up in the T output. To be honest I don't even know where they are located or how their disintegration could be making it's way into the water cooling system, but figured I'd provide the feedback if it could be helpful to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you want to DIY take the powerhead apart and clean the cooling passages.
How adamant are you about flushing your motor as soon after each trip as possible? Once you find the restriction and clean it start flushing with SaltAway or Salt Terminator and you won’t have any more issues.
Once a cooling system has corrosion and salt buildup you really need to physically remove the crud, flushing with chemicals will only get some of it.
Look up my thread about cleaning the cooling passages on my Yamaha from a couple of years ago.
I'll check that out.

My mechanic mentioned taking the powerhead apart. He will do the work, but I will check out the thread you mentioned. I'm trying to get an idea of what I am up against as the mechanic is a bit unsure at the moment. He is trying to get his hands on the cooling schematic for my motor now.

I flush the motor after every use.

Many thanks.
 

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Brandon, FL
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Before you dive too deep take the lower off and verify ALL of the water pump vanes are going the same direction and one or two did not get twisted the opposite direction from the pressure of the garden hose.

Happened to mine so I am speaking from experience.

The muffs will allow water to be forced past the impeller, through the block and get stopped by the thermostat. This will be 60-70 psi water. The you hit the key and the impeller immediately starts to turn but has a bunch of water it can't move. You can compress air, you cannot compress water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: The first trip to the mechanic, he could not clear all of the clogs. The motor is barely over a year old and is flushed after each use.

I took the boat back home, and ran 6 cycles of a product from West Marine through the engine. I believe it is called Salt Off. I ran the motor long enough for it to warm up, opened the valve on the product's applicator allowing the product to flush through the engine for about 30 seconds, and shut it down. After letting the engine sit for a day or two, I repeated the process.

After 6 cycles, I was still not getting the proper pressure readings; so I brought the boat back to the mechanic expecting him to pull off the power head.

He worked a little more on the clog before taking apart the motor, and something cleared. The clog dislodged and pressures were fully restored.

I can't say that the Salt Off cured the problem, and I will never know if it contributed to loosening up the debris in the system. However, I think I'll use it regularly going forward.

I felt it was unlikely that the motor was full of corrosion after a year's use and regular flushings. It appears I was unlucky and some sand or debris made its way into the cooling system through the water pump.
 

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In my experience, water pressure gauges are not reliable.The pisser tubes on small zukes clog easy w/ sand etc...I drilled out mine a little and never had a problem after that.
The old paper clip routine of cleaning out the pisser tube does not always completely clear the problem if it is larger shell/sand bits
 

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I have needed to cover the intake on the bottom of the plate on my DF60 when using muffs since I bought it new a year ago... Actually had to call the service department where I bought it after the first time I tried to flush and nothing was coming through. They told me I would have to tape the bottom intake or have it submerged. I’ve tried several times since then to flush without covering and have found that sometimes it will start pumping water but it’s a weak stream...
 
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