[topnative2]

I have the float-on trailer for my suv and I found that the setup was just not working for me. The trailer is an excellent rig but the front cross memeber is straight across which makes it necessary to completely sink the trailer to get the boat on. And, then you can not winch it tight w/o pulling forward to get the bow high enough to fit/snug in the stand.

The simple solution was to install a 12" roller on the cross member which allows the bow to roll across the cross member and the bow is then high enough to snug up. Also I do not have to sink the trailer nearly as far before.
Not a brainiac move but hope it helps.

 

[Recidivists]

Thanks top. Will probably do the same upon delivery.

 

[Brett]

Only two minor things to add Top...

Use only the gold polyurethane rollers (never the cheapo black rubber ones)
and well greased stainless roller shafts to avoid rust and binding, especially on a float-on.

 

[TheBrazilNut]

I have the float-on trailer for my suv and I found that the setup was just not working for me. The trailer is an excellent rig but the front cross memeber is straight across which makes it necessary to completely sink the trailer to get the boat on. And, then you can not winch it tight w/o pulling forward to get the bow high enough to fit/snug in the stand.

The simple solution was to install a 12" roller on the cross member which allows the bow to roll across the cross member  and the bow is then high enough to snug up. Also I do not have to sink the trailer nearly as far before.
Not a brainiac move but hope it helps.

Can you post a pic of how you mounted it? I have the same issue with my Float-on.

 

[topnative2]

got the poly-- sw trained
did not grease : shoulda but I am in fw ---that be my alibi

 

[topnative2]

I took off the poly skid strip that it came w/ and mounted the roller assembly on the back side of the cross member w. the top of the bracket even w/ the top of the cross member--works for me
I will post when I can.

 

[makin moves]

sweet I need to do the same. Post pic when you can thanks

 

[topnative2]

Photo bucket and I are not getting along rt. now
send me a pm w/ email address and i will send pics.

 

[TheBrazilNut]

Here are the pics you emailed to me. [smiley=1-beer.gif]

 

[TheBrazilNut]

Seems like a defect! I guess everyone is having this problem with the SUV's it seems. I'm going to call Float-on and see if they will send me one at no cost.

 

[Brett]

I'm of the opinion that if a hull has a keel or vee bow, every cross frame needs a center roller.
Doesn't matter if it's a float-on, break-frame or cheapo galvanized. Only flat bottom hulls
(ie: flat from stem to stern) can get away with using only bunks and without centerline rollers.
The extra rollers will allow launching and retrieving at even the shallowest/flattest ramps.
Costs a little more to set up, but saves on gel-coat repairs in the long run.

 

[topnative2]

Great points ref. shallow ramps and rollers [smiley=1-mmm.gif]

 

[topnative2]

Upon laying on my back in 30d. weather, I do believe that I will be adding another roller on the crossmember behind the axle as B. suggests.> which will certainly do the trick even if I have a Brain f--- one morning!

 

[TheBrazilNut]

Upon laying on my back in 30d. weather, I do believe that I will be adding another roller on the crossmember behind the axle as B. suggests.> which will certainly do the trick even if I have a Brain f--- one morning!

Weather sucks! Were having a cold front pass by that took us from the mid 80's - mid 60's. ;D


You have a 14' SUV? I wonder if the 17' would act different on the trailer. I'll add 2 rollers and see how it works.

The best place to mount would be one on each cross beam were the bunks are bolted on?

 

[topnative2]

I have the 17'.
Yup! on the crossmembers--- one in front of axle and the one behind.
I do not think there is enough ground clearance on the very back one.
Ck the pics. the mnting height is perfect higher is not better because of the bow configuration.

trailerpartsdepot.com is the cheapest by mail. and it is a kit u will still need to need the nuts and bolts

 

[Brett]

I do not think there is enough ground clearance on the very back one.

There is a bracket specifically designed for the float-on rear frame.
looks like this...

I believe the bracket is sold by FloatOn trailers

http://www.floaton.com/trailer4.html

 

[topnative2]

Excellent , phone call is in order--- I like the curved crossmembers?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

[Shadowcast]

Seems like a defect! I guess everyone is having this problem with the SUV's it seems. I'm going to call Float-on and see if they will send me one at no cost.

I had no issues like this with my Float On and it had an SUV on it. The Float On's are worth their weight in gold, IMHO. I would call Mel or the guys at Float On and I am sure there is a simple solution to take care of it.

 

[TheBrazilNut]

I was the one who brought the 1st Float on trailer issue to Mel.

The bunks were not in contact with the hull from front to back. They could not be moved (welded) so they cut the brackets and then it fit great. Float-on had to fix a bunch of new trailers and Mel had to track down customers who already had their skiff and might have a problem.

The problem that a bunch of us are having has been discussed in this thread.

I have called Float-on about the issue and they are going to figure this problem out and call me back.


And yes for the price the Aluminum Float-on is a very nice trailer and the problems will be solved.

 

[copperhead]

Hey guys,

Whatever the trailer issues are, I'd like you to contact me first.  BrazilNut's trailer was the first with the welded brackets that were off a bit and I thanked him for his keen observations.  There was his and 4 other trailers (still at our facility) that were fixed before going out to customers (not a bunch and none recalled from the field). 

I myself wouldn't call it a defect,  if the skiff is loaded at the correct angle (meaning submerged trailer depth), it won't even touch the cross member.  But I've had feedback that some ramps,  the angle can't can't be reached and will hit the front cross member's rub strake.  So far we've changed the material on the front cross member for those isolated cases for better protection.  We may need to go to a roller on that front member if necessary on future models.

Regardless,  we strive to make a continuous set of improvements based on our customers' feedback (on everything we represent).    As always, drop me an email, text msg to call you, or a call (but most times you wil get my voice mail and I'll call back) when you see how we can improve.  Yours/ours collective experiences will help us deliver the best skiff products at the best value.

Thanks!

Mel