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Discussion Starter #1
I got no spark. Checked resistance and both showed as an open circuit. I've got one of those "automatic" multimeters so I don't trust it 100%. Planning to borrow another meter to double check. Just wondering if its common for both to go at the same time?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh yeah sorry. '99 25hp 2stroke. Good guess!  ;D
 

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You need a CD-77 or DVA adapter to check the trigger and stator.

To answer your questions though no typically they do not go bad at the same time.

When you say you checked resitance and have a open ground how are you checking them?

Electric start or Manual?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They each have 2 wires coming to the switch box. Disconnected the leads and checked the 2 wires on each per shop manual. It gives an acceptable ohms range for each but I'm not getting anything.

Does it take a DVA to measure ohms?

Thanks for the help BTW
 

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No a DVA is not needed for a resitance ohms test. This only test's one side though.

If your sure you did the test right per the manual then it would indicate that both are bad, but something tells me you need to re-read the manual and re-check. But again if your sure then R&R

Electric or Manual start? Does your engine have a rectifier?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Has both manual and electric. Yes it has a rectifier.
 

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Disconnet the kill switch and the rectifier and re-test.

What color are you stator leads?
Blue & Blue/White?
Red & Red/white?
???
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They are grn/wht and wht/grn. I did the tests with every thing disconnected.
The trigger is where I have my doubts with my meter. Not sure it has the Rx100 setting the manual says is required.
Pretty sure the stator is fried. It's a pretty common issue in Mercs right?
 

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They are grn/wht and wht/grn. I did the tests with every thing disconnected.
The trigger is where I have my doubts with my meter. Not sure it has the Rx100 setting the manual says is required.
Pretty sure the stator is fried. It's a pretty common issue in Mercs right?
Not on the 25hp

99.9% of the time it's a swtich box not the stator, but yes they do go bad.
 

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They are grn/wht and wht/grn. I did the tests with every thing disconnected.
The trigger is where I have my doubts with my meter. Not sure it has the Rx100 setting the manual says is required.
Pretty sure the stator is fried. It's a pretty common issue in Mercs right?
Which means you have a red stator= they don't go bad often on those engines.

What was the Ohm reading from the Green/wht wire to ground? Red meter wire to Green/wht, black meter wire to gorund.?

Got to run out for a bit be back on in a couple of hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gotcha. Had the switch box issue already. Hoping this stator didn't fry the new one. I understand this happens sometimes.
Gonna double check everything one more time,then likely order a stator. I should be getting some resistance thru it. I'm getting nada.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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I have the same engine, same year. Wiring color is different though. Stator has failed twice, trigger has not. This test procedure may help you...

Remove the black/yellow wire from the switchbox(powerpack) that runs from the kill switch. This will eliminate the kill switches totally. If it fires then you will need to find out where the kill switch circuit is grounded. If that does not work, the next thing to check is the stator which is under the flywheel. It can be checked with a ohm meter. Remove the black/yellow wire that runs from under the flywheel to the switchbox and the black/white wire that runs from under the flywheel to the switchbox. Between the black/white and the engine ground the reading should be between 120 to 180 ohms. Between the black yellow and engine ground the reading should be 3200 to 3800 ohms. Between the black/yellow and the black/white should be 3100 to 3700 ohms. If it is anything other than that, the stator is bad. If the stator reads good, then you need to test the trigger coil which is also located under the flywheel. Remove the brown and the brown/yellow wire from the switchbox. Between the brown and the yellow/brown should be 650 to 850 ohms. Any other reading means the trigger is bad. That pretty much checks out your whole ignition system.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Hammer. Bottom line= I gotta get better multimeter to be sure. I'm not getting anything on either part.
 

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Thanks Hammer. Bottom line= I gotta get better multimeter to be sure. I'm not getting anything on either part.
You don't need anything beyond a basic, known working multimeter available at any hardware store to do the above tests. I worked with the support technicians at CDI the last time one failed and they walked me through it with only my Craftsman meter.

Now, if it were me, I'd go ahead and replace the trigger while I had it apart. They're pretty cheap and if it's the original '99 part, replacing will provide some peace of mind. I did that last time I had the flywheel off, even though the original still tested good.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'd go ahead and replace the trigger while I had it apart.
I was thinking the same.
 

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I use'ta wonder about the design lifespan of outboard electrical components,
then a fish'n buddy pointed out the obvious..."How long is the new engine warranty good for?"

                                                    ;)
 

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I use'ta wonder about the design lifespan of outboard electrical components,
then a fish'n buddy pointed out the obvious..."How long is the new engine warranty good for?"

                                                    ;)
;D Good point Brett. I had one technician tell me that stators are considered to be consumable parts, meaning that while they can last for a decade or more, they are not necessarily designed to do so.
 

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Any multi meter will work for an Ohm reading, if you don't have a reading between the green/white to ground, then it's a bad stator. There is no reason to replace the trigger, the stator and trigger have no effect on each other.

Stator creates the 1st voltage sends it to the switch box  where it is stored in capacitors, then the trigger sends a small voltage to the switch to tell the switch box to send the voltage to the coils which goes to the plug.

Now the rectifier is what I would replace as if the stator is bad then chances are high that the rectifier is bad or is going bad. Also just to make it clear if the rectifier is bad and not disconnected it will show a bad stator in tests.

I have the same motor as well on my gigging boat, (2001) and I have never replaced the stator or trigger in 10 years. Have been through 1 switch box.
Also I have been a certified Mercury Technician since 1996 and on the 25hp have replaced maybe a dozen stators but have sold probably >250 25hp so I wouldn't say it's a common problem unless you have a lose ground, as that will fry 1 in a second.

Hammer My friend is the one who wrote that testing procedure on the other forum its posted on.
 

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I use'ta wonder about the design lifespan of outboard electrical components,
then a fish'n buddy pointed out the obvious..."How long is the new engine warranty good for?"
                                                    ;)
You can get up to 7 years now with the extended warranty, ;)
 
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