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Standing on lexan

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Feelin cute, might add a lexan live well lid.

Seriously now. I'm thinking a lexan lid would be nice for the live well on my build. However I wonder if its strong enough to stand on at 3/8" thick? It will be 10.5" x 16" total with 8.5" x 13" unsupported.

I'm open to thoughts here. Different materials.....
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· Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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Lexan/Polycarbonate- It’s strong but scratches very easily. It would look terrible after the first few trips.
Acrylic- harder and more scratch resistant but you give up the flexibility and it has a tendency to crack very easily.
 

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It also works as a magnifying glass. Itll cook your livewell and if you fold it over and forget to fold it back and leave it in the sun it will cook your glass and or SeaDek if you have it. Cause i left mine folded one time and it melted a piece of SeaDek
 

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I have 2. I don't know if mine are lexan or acrylic but they are about 1/2" thick and no issues with warping, burning my finish inside the live well or outside when flipped up, or killing bait in south FL sun. Obviously, they can scratch easier than non-skid but still look nearly new after 5 years and I stand on one all the time when yellowtailing. If I'm not standing on it, it has a cutting board or chum bucket on it.

I don't know why one would need a clear lid but it hasn't caused any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. I think I might give it a try still. I'm thinking lexan, I'd rather it be more easily scratched then have a chance of cracking under foot.
 

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Thanks guys. I think I might give it a try still. I'm thinking lexan, I'd rather it be more easily scratched then have a chance of cracking under foot.
When I worked in the hurricane shutter business we used 1/4” Lexan for oddball window coverings and it was Miami/Dade compliant for impact resistance. It might flex but it won’t break. I’ve made boat windshields with it and heated it with a heat gun and bent it over aluminum angle for the corners and it won’t crack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When I worked in the hurricane shutter business we used 1/4” Lexan for oddball window coverings and it was Miami/Dade compliant for impact resistance. It might flex but it won’t break. I’ve made boat windshields with it and heated it with a heat gun and bent it over aluminum angle for the corners and it won’t crack.
Is there any specific way you guys drilled it so it didn't promote cracking? Also did you heat finish the edges?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
May I ask why go through the trouble and concern for a clear door? Good spot to bust ass on when it’s wet.
Just for the aesthetics. I compromised a lot of the fancy touches on this skiff to get it done. There are a few easy things I can do now to up the wow factor. While I'm usually a function over form kinda guy, I find myself drawn to this one touch.
 

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Is there any specific way you guys drilled it so it didn't promote cracking? Also did you heat finish the edges?
Regular bits work fine, it doesn’t crack at all. Cut it with a chop saw, circular saw, jigsaw, drill it, grind it with a flap disc, counter sink holes and use finish washers etc. I still have sheets of it and use it for all kinds of projects.
 
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