spandex boat???

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by jcbottjer@gmail.co, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    all right you guys talked me out of a sunfish.........have any of you guys seen on tv how they make the fleece/spandex subwoofer boxes i was wondering if i could make the skeliton of the boat and get the shape that i want and on the inside do however layers of matte glass it needs to take to be solid?
     
  2. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dN_xX9WIP4&feature=related
     

  3. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Skin over frame construction has been around forever.
    Keeping the skin taut while applying fiberglass is the hard part.
    If the skin sags, the finished shape of your hull won't look right.
     
  4. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    yea that wouldent be good im gonna do a couple small scale tests before i go broke spending all of my money on glass and resins just for it to be a waist.....i was thinking about just getting the shape just right and putting alot of matte glass on the inside and i could go over the outside of the hull with finishglass or bondo
     
  5. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Another technique would be a one-off plywood mold.
    Build your framework.
    Skin it in cheap plywood, seal it with a coat of resin.
    Wax it, and lay glass over the outside.
    Fast easy method of construction.
     
  6. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    both would be about the same price to make both of them but making the mold would be a little more labor intencive
     
  7. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    You can do the fleece over frame meathod, but after you get the shape you will need alot more resin and glass then you would with a stitch and glue boat because the glass will be the only real structural member. The speaker boxes that these are used for are good for taking vibration but not really meant to handle weight, atleast the ones I've helped build in the past. So in the end it will cost alot more and because of all the extra resin and fairing it will end up taking alot more time too.

    If you are intent on building, do like Brian, Brett and myself did when we build our boats. Heres the links to the builds:

    http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1233676948

    http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1216352720

    http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1247960551

    From your other post it seems you are just looking for a small skiff to fish the flats and protected waters, if so check out these boats too:
    http://www.bateau.com/categories.php

    These plans are tried and tested and if you buy the plans you can put them together very quickly and some very cheaply like this one:
    http://www.bateau.com/studyplans/FS12_study.htm?prod=FS12
     
  8. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    im gonna have to look into that

    i got bored this morning and cut up a t-shirt and got some veneer and put this together

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    I like the shape, but I'd do less severe of a v if you are fishing the flats. The issues will be the ribs, see how it raises up a little no matter how tight you pull it I bet you will still not be able to get it to flatten out very well, after it is glassed it will take a ton of grinding saning and fairing to smooth it out. Natuarally the more work required the more money. Now if you make the same frame work and cover it with foam then it might work out ok, but again will take a bunch of money. If you cover it with Luan, assuming the curves aren't to extreme, then you will need much less glass and save alot of money and time.
     
  10. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    werei fish in charlotte harbor its a large area of water and if im fishing in pine island sound and i need to head back to the ramp in placida it a 5 mile leg on open water and in the late summer when we get white squals it can get nasty out there thats why i want a deep v in the front and a little bit of flair in the bow. i want it to be a dry boat
     
  11. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    wow I'm not sure I would cross that much open water it a boat that small. Make sure you have enough floatation foam under the floor so she won't sink if she flips. I'm not sure exactly how big the boat will be, but I wouldn't count on a dry ride when running a chop no matter how it is designed.
     
  12. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    ive done ot in a johnboat and its gonna have two hatchs one for the gas tank and another for the battery and everything else is gonna have foam i mean everything! the dementions are 13'x5'x1.5
     
  13. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    changed the ribs just a little, some sanding here and there and added some stuff


    i got the look i wanted when the cloth was dry and there was no sagging but i just put some epoxy on it but the epoxy sets in a hour so it might sag when its set

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  14. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Looks like it's covered in sheet... ;)

    I'm sorry, the punch line was just hanging there
                 absolutely begging for the spike!

                                        ;D

    Kayaks, coracles, even oceangoing sailboats all used skin over frame.
    Plenty of designs out there to work from that use the technique.
    Even aircraft were built skin over frame, strong and lightweight.
    the trick to obtain a smooth hull is to attach the fabric
    only to the stringers, not the frames.
    Another trick is to use gravity to pull the fabric tight.
    Apply resin only to the panel that is perpendicular to the floor.
    Can't sag if the load is to one edge.
     
  15. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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  16. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL

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    It would be extremely difficult to pull on FG cloth without it coming apart. Also the widest I have ever seen is 62".
     
  17. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    its not fiberglass its fleece
     
  18. luckovertme

    luckovertme I Love microskiff.com!

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    i like that your thinking outside the box. i have built quite a few speaker boxes using this method. the one problem i see is that ALL curves in the boat will be concave instead of convex. to correct that you will have to add more framing and fairing material. fleece will soak up a ton of resin which in the end i think it will only make it heavy and brittle.
     
  19. jcbottjer@gmail.co

    jcbottjer@gmail.co I'd rather be FISHING!!

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    i decided that im going to do all the flat spots with wood but im going to do the fleece technique on the bow section so it will get that copperhead/hellsbay look with the deep-v and it will make a smooth transition into a flaired section
     
  20. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

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    that sounds like a much better plan to me. If it doesn't work out you can still do the curves with wood it just takes a little time and experimenting.