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I Love Skinny Water
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Discussion Starter #1
The wireing on my boat works, except my white nav light. When I look under my console I can't tell what's what. It looks like black spaghetti. I don't know if I can do it or hire someone to do it. I just need to have my bilge, nav lights and my areiator. I have 2 pumps that are located on 2 through hull connections. I don't need these. They fill 2 large live wells under the seat. I think I've used these twice in 4 years
I've started to look at YouTube. The first thing I saw was the difference between copper wire and tinned. I have lots of copper wire on my boat.
I saw in videos buses, I'm think I have one in my bilge
I don't know anything more than positive and negative and now 14 gauge tinned wire
It's Carp season and as long as I don't travel in the dark I'm ok
I'm going to do more research cause I think I can do this but.....馃槸
 

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Its not as intimidating as it looks. Start simple, one wire at a time. When you order or purchase your wire, get 30-50% more than you think you will need. Use waterproof conectors, and heat seals over that. If your present wiring is in a hidden chase, use the old wire to pull the new wire through. The wiring may be tied together in the chase. If so, you may have to pull it all out at once. Take your time, one wire or one circuit at a time. You've got this!
 

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Hey man. I know i answered some questions on your other post about the light so I thought I鈥檇 jump in here

If you don鈥檛 have a lot of experience doing wiring, a boat is not the place to learn to do a complete re-wire in my opinion. A mistake can leave you stranded or worse yet, in The water with a boat on fire.
I am currently rewiring a 2006 Ranger Ghost 169 with a ton of that spaghetti wiring. What started out small has grown bigger and bigger and between ordering new switch panels and fixing previous wiring mistakes and emailing companies about what a power pole or a jack plate draws, (previous owner had everything wrong) it鈥檚 become a VERY big project. So much so that I鈥檓 being extra cautious about it to make sure everything is right, and I have a fair amount of experience with boat wiring

Anyway, if you can afford it, it pays to have someone do it if you鈥檙e not sure IMHO

Or just start by learning on how to get that anchor light working....

Good luck whatever route you choose
 

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Hey man. I know i answered some questions on your other post about the light so I thought I鈥檇 jump in here

If you don鈥檛 have a lot of experience doing wiring, a boat is not the place to learn to do a complete re-wire in my opinion. A mistake can leave you stranded or worse yet, in The water with a boat on fire.
I am currently rewiring a 2006 Ranger Ghost 169 with a ton of that spaghetti wiring. What started out small has grown bigger and bigger and between ordering new switch panels and fixing previous wiring mistakes and emailing companies about what a power pole or a jack plate draws, (previous owner had everything wrong) it鈥檚 become a VERY big project. So much so that I鈥檓 being extra cautious about it to make sure everything is right, and I have a fair amount of experience with boat wiring

Anyway, if you can afford it, it pays to have someone do it if you鈥檙e not sure IMHO

Or just start by learning on how to get that anchor light working....

Good luck whatever route you choose
I got his back and am only a phone call away, same goes for every member on this site... even if I don鈥檛 like鈥檈m personally, I鈥檒l still lend a hand! @permitchaser, if ya don鈥檛 have my number... send me a pm and I鈥檒l get it to ya!馃馃徎馃憡馃徎
 

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Ya I know everyone is helpful on here. If he was closer to Jacksonville I鈥檇 help him with the re-wire. It was just my opinion because he has had some difficulty with getting his anchor light working. I don鈥檛 remember what kind of boat he has or know how much wiring he has to do, I just know it can get complicated depending on the situation
 

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You can do it, the wiring itself is pretty straight forward. Also unless you are messing with the engine harness there should t be too much that can strand you on the water.

first step is to rip everything out, Do not try to clean it up or re use existing wires, then put your components in (fuseblocks, bus bars etc) and run the new wires one at a time.
It鈥檚 not super complicated just time consuming.
 

I Love microskiff.com!
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It is not really a hard job, just time consuming. Use nothing but marine tinned wire, Accon connections and good heat shrink tubing that has adhesive in it (Accon or 3m). I like using a buss bars rather than connecting the switch wires directly to the load (light, pump, etc...) If you do it right it will last a long time.
 

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Or, come to Florida for a week with supplies. We鈥檒l go through it together in a day and fish the rest of the week!馃馃徎
 

I Love Skinny Water
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Discussion Starter #10
I knew I get some help. I also want to change the fuse panel from glass tubes
I鈥檒l post pictures of my mess
Thank everyone for your help
 

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Lots of good suggestions above.
Don't know what model skiff you have but I did a rewire a couple of years ago. First thing I did was diagram the existing wiring layout and labeled everything on the drawing, color coded, etc. On that same diagram I also included what amperage was required for the component. I found for example, that the previous owner used 20amp fuses to run things like 4amp Nav lights, etc, which is a problem waiting to happen. This is another great reason to undertake the job even if it seems a little intimidating. You will have a solid understanding of your rig's wiring system, who knows you might uncover and correct problems that are already exist.

I found having a diagram helps create a plan, from there you can work methodically at it, helps you get comfortable with it also. Also, as others have said getting good components, heat shrink connectors, crimping tool, etc, is important. Wiring job is not the one to cut corners on, IMO.
 

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I got his back and am only a phone call away, same goes for every member on this site... even if I don鈥檛 like鈥檈m personally, I鈥檒l still lend a hand! @permitchaser, if ya don鈥檛 have my number... send me a pm and I鈥檒l get it to ya!馃馃徎馃憡馃徎
Sounds like an offer that I knew that you would make! Stop hoarding all the good karma! 馃憤
 

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+1 on doing a color coded, full sized diagram. Colored felt-tips are cheap.

When I installed a new fish finder on my boat, the opening in the back (stern side) of the small center console was too small to really work in and reach up, so I finally removed the mounting screws and tipped it over on its' face, then worked thru the bottom. WOW, what a difference. Laid on my belly, head up and was "much" more comfortable, could reach better and did a much better job.

The original wiring was a mess and this made it much easier to straighten that out, too. Do it all while you're at it.

Something I think would work for a boat - when I re-wired the engine compartment of a '79 Saab Turbo that I restored, I took the old, brittle wiring harness and stapled it to a sheet of plywood, all nice and neat and spread out, then copied it wire for wire. When done, it went into place quickly and easily, and worked perfectly.

I've always done things the old way - replace one wire at a time so's you know you're right, but the above might be food for thought.

Buy a heavy duty crimping tool/pliers and put your shoulders into the crimps. I've done a huge amount of wiring in my time, as a business, and by far the most common problem I've seen is loose connectors that weren't crimped properly.
 

Carpe Diem
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I've wired and rewired a lot of skiffs. The one most common thing I've discovered is that most original wiring jobs are terrible and use relatively cheap materials. Unless your skiff is one of the few quality exceptions, I'd plan on rewiring everything with proper wire sizes, colors, buss bars and connectors. A total rewire done right is not typically a one day job, particularly if you have to snake wires thru restricted areas or untangle knots of old wire. Sometimes just removing old wiring can take the better part of a day. (sometimes you can use the old wire to pull the new wire, but many times you won't get that lucky) You need flexibility, long arms, the ability to hang upside down for extended periods and plenty of patience. You'll need a variety of snakes, flashlights, head lamps and mirrors and good wire tools.

Bottom line: It ain't easy, but it is possible. If you have doubts about your ability, mentally or physically, either leave things as they are or hire a reputable professional
 

I Love Skinny Water
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Discussion Starter #15
Or, come to Florida for a week with supplies. We鈥檒l go through it together in a day and fish the rest of the week!馃馃徎
What city do you live in?
 

I Love Skinny Water
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Discussion Starter #18
Well here is what I am scared of, this is what is coming out of the chase. The box looking thing is the onboard charger for my 2 battery, 24 V system

157814
 
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Well here is what I am scared of, this is what is coming out of the chase. The box looking thing is the onboard charger for my 2 battery, 24 V system

View attachment 157814
Yeah, whole lotta butt connectors in that birds nest! I鈥檒l start by saying...

(1) isolate every circuit/ accessory such as the on board charger. Roll up wires and tape with blue tape and label with a sharpie.
(2) get all that mess out of your way!

(3) several of them wires appear to be engine harness wires johnson/evinrude or mercury?
You can use the old wires sometimes and sometimes not so the advice about a fish tape is spot on! I always buy some decent small diameter rope 1/8鈥 or so and when I pull wires out, I pull the rope with it! This allows you to get the old all out of the way while having a pull for the new. I also attach a fresh piece when I pull the new and leave it. I鈥檒l try to draw you up a generic schematic in the next couple days to help with fusing and switch panel stuff. Just tell me what all accessories you have, James
 
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