Been plugging away at this, but no massive progress. We bought a house that’s a semi gut job so it’s been taking up a bunch of my time, but I’m trying to get in an hour or so every day on the boat.
Since all the holes drilled in the boat need to be filled with epoxy, I’ve had to figure out all of the wiring/rigging before I paint the inside. I’m extremely anal about wiring and in the first place, and trying to avoid all of the broken/pain to service stuff I’ve seen on other boats has made it even worse.
Everything is from Blue Sea or Ancor, and it is all crimped, heat shrinked, and covered with woven nylon wire loom. I’m also using Delphi Weather Pack connectors on bilge pumps, lights, etc, to make replacements painless, rather than trying to strip and crimp wires in the bow.
I’m using a trolling motor bracket to hold my shallow water anchor, which will also allow me to move my trolling motor to the transom to get it out of the way on the bow or help provide thrust when poling in bad conditions. Both batteries have ports connected that will allow the trolling motor, charger, and jump starter pack to be plugged in easily.
The rear triple switches will run the navigation, stern, and cockpit lights, and the single switch will run the auxiliary bilge pump. The float switch can be bypassed by unplugging it, and the bilge pumps can be swapped on the water with no tools.
The rod tubes are also in, but I still need to build bulkheads. I can fit 10’ 6” fly rods in the forward tubes (unlikely I’ll ever need that), and 9’ 6” rods in the aft tubes. My rod holders will be bolted on rather than glassed in to allow for simple re-designs. I’ll be able to hold 8 rods under the gunnels, 2 on the (eventual) poling platform, and 2 on the grab bar that will really only be used for re-tying or needing to set a rod down for a minute.
I’ve found that poly irrigation line make excellent chase tubes, I’ve used it in my cargo trailer also. Wires feed through it very easily, it’s flexible, and dirt cheap.
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