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Discussion Starter #61
Got the boat flipped obviously. I managed to do it by myself with just a floor jack and some foam insulation panels I had. Small amount of damage where it slipped off the jack but no big deal. Sucker is light, that’s for sure. I’d guess under 250 lbs as it sits.

Southwest wheel still hasn’t gotten me the correct axle I ordered, so I don’t have a trailer built yet but I put some bunks on the strongback and slid the axle under that to work on.

Layout will be a 39” rear deck, 66” front deck, and anchor locker in the bow. Going to have narrow gunnels and 8 rod holders/tubes. Trolling motor battery will be as far forward as possible in the bow, and I’m using a grab bar and 45 qt cooler in the center.

I built the rear frames wide enough to fit 3 6 gallon gas tanks side by side under the rear deck, but plan to just run 2 most of the time.

Today I got the gunnels planed down smooth, the transom edge sanded, and most of the inside of the boat roughly sanded. I’ve decided not to go overkill with the finish under the decks, and spend more time getting the cockpit area looking nice.

I also got my fiberglass splices done on the inside of the side panels, and the chine logs under the decks filleted. It’s nice being back to working with epoxy and fiberglass after sanding and painting for so long, but it kicks really quickly now that temps are in the high 90’s.

Trying to get it inspected and registered soon, and I’ve got some gaps to fill as well as the bow and transom braces, but it’s just about ready for a water test on the river. I was contemplating adding some rubrails and temporary bench seats to use it for the summer, but hopefully it won’t take too much longer to just finish it up completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Working with epoxy yesterday turned out to be a mess, so I worked on fabbing my decks and doing some rigging, even though it’s out of order. Laying out all the transom fittings was a bit tricky, I’m leaving myself room for trim tabs and possibly a jack plate in the future.

I want this boat to be as capable and safe as possible in serious water situations, so I’m running dual Johnson 1250 gph bilge pumps with 1 1/8” sanitation hose and stainless fittings. I’ll run a very small cockpit coaming to help shed any water coming over the bow or transom, and foam underneath the decks.

The cockpit width will be about 40”, that should be just enough to make walking past the cooler easy while still protecting the rods. It’s going to be tight storing the 8 rods I want to be able to horizontally though. The decks and gunnels will have a nice curve cut to the edges, I decided to let everything overhang for now and then cut it all once it’s installed.


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Discussion Starter #66
A router with a flush cut bit will make quick work of cutting those gunnels and decks to correct and exact size, especially if you epoxy/glue the decks down first...
Yeah, I’ve got some but I plan to taper the overhang from having more near the front to knock down the spray to less in the rear. I like the way it looks, like the Beavertail skiffs. Thinking about just cutting a line with a circular saw and using a batten to draw the curve on the front deck.

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Yeah, I’ve got some but I plan to taper the overhang from having more near the front to knock down the spray to less in the rear. I like the way it looks, like the Beavertail skiffs. Thinking about just cutting a line with a circular saw and using a batten to draw the curve on the front deck.

View attachment 31250
Use the batten on the bottom of the decks and glue it in place. It will knock down some of the spray and you can still use the router and flush cut bit to cut the decks flush to the batten
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
I like the way you have those bilge pumps coming out of the rear deck...
Thanks. The hoses will get tied up to the transom and the underside of the rear deck to secure everything and keep some storage space under there. It was worth it to me to go big on the bilge pumps, the extra cost was less than $100, and I have no patience for crappy plastic thru-hulls or corrugated bilge hoses.

One will have a float switch and be run off the trolling motor battery for general use and if I leave it in the water overnight. The other will have a manual switch and be run off the starting battery for redundancy and “oh shit” moments.

I’ve been on several boats with water intrusion problems in calm conditions, and several more with no problems in hellacious conditions. Stuff like running a 14’ Jon boat out an inlet when center consoles were coming in because it was so rough, or being in 10-12’ seas in Alaska. I also bought a PLB after the 2 kids from Jupiter disappeared a couple years ago. There’s no excuse for not having one.
 

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Fly-By-Night
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Really cool looking build!

If possible think about mounting your "oh shit" pump slightly up off the bottom of the boat. All types of crap seems to find it's way into bilge pumps, it you keep it up a bit you know it will never be really be exposed to debris, and will be there if/when you need it. Also as someone on here pointed out to me when I overlooked it, consider putting a second hose clamp on each fitting. I wire my second (oh shit) pump direct to a switch and battery. A lot of people will tell you that's bad for a half dozen reasons, but my logic is if the boat is sinking I want the pump to pump, or catch fire trying. Hell if I sink the fire will be put out anyway lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Really cool looking build!

If possible think about mounting your "oh shit" pump slightly up off the bottom of the boat. All types of crap seems to find it's way into bilge pumps, it you keep it up a bit you know it will never be really be exposed to debris, and will be there if/when you need it. Also as someone on here pointed out to me when I overlooked it, consider putting a second hose clamp on each fitting. I wire my second (oh shit) pump direct to a switch and battery. A lot of people will tell you that's bad for a half dozen reasons, but my logic is if the boat is sinking I want the pump to pump, or catch fire trying. Hell if I sink the fire will be put out anyway lol.
Yeah, I’ll put the backup pump off the bottom about 2” so hopefully it’s never in the water. I don’t use a cast net except for mullet so there won’t be a ton of trash in my bilge. My thought is for the primary bilge with the float switch to be run through an in-line fuse and to the trolling motor battery, so if it’s moored somewhere at night and rains a bunch (unlikely except Keys or Everglades trips), it will have plenty of capacity and not run down my starting battery.

The secondary pump will go to a separate manual switch and to the fuse panel, run off the starting battery. I may put an oversized fuse in there as the wiring run will be short and heavy enough gauge to not overheat. The pumps only draw 3.5 amps so it won’t be a big draw.

Not a bad idea about the backup hose clamps either, but I bought some high quality stainless ones from West Marine. I may just use a zip tie as a backup, the hose goes on the fittings tight enough that I was worried about getting it off if I push it on all the way.

I don’t plan on running out of sight of land in this boat, even with perfect conditions, it’s more dealing with crossing a nasty bay when the wind whips up.

Honestly, with the 2,500 gph capacity to deal with a ton of water coming into the boat, and 100% redundency with both systems completely separated, if the boat sinks and then I’m not rescued by my PLB, it’s just my time to go. :D

Same thing with the dual 6 gallon fuel tanks. I’m running them because it makes it easier to mix gas and oil in 6 gallon increments rather than topping off, should give me a “reserve” setting by having some fuel in the other tank to switch over to if I run one dry, and also should prevent getting bad gas in both tanks from a station, as I won’t be filling them at the same time in most cases.

I do wish Johnson hadn’t eliminated the pull start on these electric start motors, but it does have the ability to wrap a rope around the flywheel and I’ll carry a backup lithium jump starter also.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
You ever get down around St Joe or the cape?
I primarily fish Panacea, but occasionally fish St Marks and Lanark. I’ve heard the water is really clear by St Joe and I finally drew a St Vincent Sambar tag this year, so I plan to make a trip over that way at some point. I’ve been talking to a buddy of mine about running the Apalachicola river start to finish also.
 

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Fly-By-Night
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I primarily fish Panacea, but occasionally fish St Marks and Lanark. I’ve heard the water is really clear by St Joe and I finally drew a St Vincent Sambar tag this year, so I plan to make a trip over that way at some point. I’ve been talking to a buddy of mine about running the Apalachicola river start to finish also.
Do it, it's a great trip. I canoed it once from the Dam in Chattahoochee to Apalach, 6 days. Mind the river level though, if you do it when the river is like it is now there will be no sandbars and nowhere to sleep on the lower half of the river. I highly recommend not camping on the river ridges or edge of the woods, the bugs are much more tolerable on the sandbars. Also when the river is up the ridges are the only high ground for a couple hundred yards in some areas and you'll be competing for real estate with everything else:), EVERYTHING else.
 

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I bought a gallon and according to their coverage charts, it should be just enough to do the inside and outside of my hull. There are some videos on YouTube where they mention that you need to use a square stick to mash up the pigment that settles out of it.

I did one coat on the bottom without thinning since it was 80 degrees, but it dried almost immediately, which left me unable to spread it out. I brushed the edges of the chine logs and then went to roll it to blend it in about 30 seconds later, and it had already flashed. The primer also causes foam rollers to swell and chunk, despite that being their recommended applicator.

It was still very transparent, so I did a second coat with the thinner. It seemed to go better and I had a little bit longer working time, but I noticed if I kept rolling the same areas it started to lift the primer back off. It also doesn’t sand well at all, it gums up and smears, even after several days drying.

With 2 coats on the bottom of the hull, the fan is probably only down about 1 1/2”. I think I used about 7 oz on the second coat, I didn’t measure the first.

At least I started on the bottom so I could get a feel for it before doing the sides which are much more visible.

The fairing compound was tough to work with too, I have quite a bit of experience with bondo, drywall mud, etc, when it comes to fairing different surfaces. The Total Boat fairing compound had about a 5-7 minute working time, even when I tried it first thing in the morning with temps in the low 70’s. It’s very sticky which makes it hard to smooth fillets with your finger and it seems to “work harden” very quickly. If you spread it on a surface then scrape the excess and spread it on the next spot, it becomes substantially dryer.

Again, I don’t have experience with other marine primers and fairing compounds, so I don’t want to be overly harsh if this is the norm, but I do use a lot of different paints/primers/fillers on a daily basis. I found the Raka epoxy to be extremely easy to work with.

Curious about the Raka. I've read that it retains a little flexability. Would you say that is accurate?
 

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This build is coming along and looking great!
 
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