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SB Paddlboard Design

4K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  jasonrl23 
#1 ·
A little back story is someday I want to build a Boron Skiff or rehab a Dolphin, essentially a boat with a TM and a larger motor so I can do nearshore and dock light without trying to make my Devilray do all those things marginally well. Struggle Bus Paddleboard is going to be the name of this thing. The goal is to learn the art of lamination and laying out, I have a pretty good understanding of mix ratios, woodworking, and CAD.

This board is going to be around 12'6" with a max width of 33". Still have a bunch of work to get to stations and the deck but I like how the "hull" came out.

I think I will have a built-in fly rod holder of some sort and a way to hold a paddle/push pole.

All suggestions are welcome! As of right now, I would really want to try a Carbon/Basalt lamina schedule at least for the bottom.
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#2 ·
Interesting. Been looking at one of the bateau FS13 recently (13x38” is where I was headed) and thinking of a foam core build for fishing shallow Creek flats where I have to cross a few bars. The bottom isn’t quite right.. contemplating a shallow tunnel or such as a Skeg won’t work. I have been playing with the blue heron software a bit, but my computer skills and its parameters aren’t meshing well. Trying to estimate weight to decide if it is worth the exercise.
Very interested to see where you end up on this.
 
#4 ·
Thats very close to the Kaholo 12'6' just a little wider. Im almost finished building the 14'. You'll like the shape when it comes together, although I wish the Kaholo was 33" vs 28" wide. Laminating is a breeze, but since there isnt a rub rail you have to be a little cleaner glassing the top on, otherwise you'll spend a decent amount of time fairing the sides out.
 
#8 ·
Looks good. Many top end paddle boards use a EPS White 1lb density foam core (Big box stores sell sheets of this stuff ) they then skin that with pvc foam core and then lay 1 layer of 5.6oz carbon over everything and a strip of uni carbon tape or two down the side for stringers. as well as a 1mm or so thick piece of plywood underneath the carbon on deck where you will stand most of the time. The cheaper version replaces the 5.6oz carbon with two layers of 6oz glass over the board. If I build another paddleboard I would probably build stations strip my board with pvc, glass and then use the cheap eps as my core. Deck if flat can just be layed on top and glassed. if you want compound curves for your deck you would use stations again to get your shape. . coring with eps allows you to not glass both inside and outside of your board saving weight and epoxy/glass or carbon. You will need vents no matter what route you go.
 
#9 ·
Interesting design @flyclimber - what is making you want to carve out such a deep area for standing? My thought is to manually dig in an inch or so on the top, but also to provide a V on the top so water drains off the side (not unlike the BOTE rackham) - are you thinking of adding a transom later and using a small motor?

@Sethsawyer - I am actually using XPS foam on mine - with that I have to use standard gorilla glue with epoxy resin as poly will melt the foam... I just wanted a cheap substrate to try out and carve!
 
#11 ·
Looking good, if I had a shop I'd love to make an SUP.. although I'm not a design guru nor have I tried any of the available software's to try, but I do paddle and have used several different boards for fishing.

I'd add a bit for rocker, the drawings look like a rather flat design.. and some more V to the bow area. Tunnel type hull design also sounds perhaps like a good idea. One of the problems with all/most SUPs is the requirement of a skeg/fin for tracking always gets in the way in shallow flats.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I built a retractable skeg/fin for my board. In super shallow water the skeg is completely out of the water. I can drop it down as much as needed. All the way down provides the straightest tracking. I glassed PVC through holes for staking out, and tie downs for a cooler if needed. I use my cross bungees in the front to secure my paddle blade when i want to cast.

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#13 ·
I went the opposite from you and went Swede form. Your lines are much better than mine. I need to look at a different software . I am just making my first forays into CAD programs. But in downsizing I don’t have a table to think or nap at.

I just ordered a cable to connect to my tv, old eyes and a small laptop do not go together, here is the base shape I was looking at. The kakyak software won’t let me do a tunnel or topside, so just leaving it rough as I look for another option.

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#21 ·
About 150-155 lbs, I'm glad you mentioned something! I reran the numbers and added about .5" to the back. It should still drain out the back somewhat quick. It's about 1" per 10'.

Here are the bouyancy calcs. If I can make the board around 50 or so lbs (doublful probably heavier) I should draft around 2" not including the skeg. The CG of the wetted surface should be about the middle of the board where I would be standing.
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