Sanding Longboard Dimensions

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=long+sanding+board&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=Of9KTPT4BcH98Abg58ky&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDUQrQQwAg


I'm too lazy for hand work,
I prefer the pneumatic sander used in auto repair/body shops.

Glen-L has a how to, middle of page:

http://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-3/wl26-mark1.html

 

If thats what you want, I'd just go with what's known as a "hand file" or "line sander" in the body shop world.
Harbor Freight has a great one for cheap.
When I owned my own body shop, I had got a $300 from the SnapOn truck.
The moment I used it, it broke.
The SnapOn truck was still outside.
I went back and exchanged it.
Tried that one and it broke again.
I got my money back and spent those $300 over at Harbor Freight on a ton of pneumatic tools.
Some didn't last, some are still working to this day.
Even if they didn't last, they were $20-$30.

I'm still using one from harbor freight for about 5 years now.

 

hell if it's gonna be camo anyway why even bother fairing it? Smooth it out a little and roll a gloss coat of epoxy on then do a few coats of primer sanding lightly in between. Paint it and go fishing!

 

When I fair, I typically use a fairing board made from what the size of the file board paper. 2-3/4x 16 1/2. I use sticky back paper, norton seems to hold up better than 3m. Make sure it is as flat against the surface as you can get it or you will sand a flat spots in the hull. I have worked in several boat shops that power sanders where not allowed and now I prefer to do it all by hand if there is a lot of flam and flair to the hull. I just feel you get a better finish. depending on how much your taking off start with 36 grit and go to 80 grit, after that it's a small sanding block with paper of 150 to 220 and then wet sand with a block with 320.

 

Self sticking felt, sold at craft stores.



And if you're worried it'll fall apart if it gets wet
I tested for that already also...no problem.

 

I'm not sure you want a pad on a fairing board, it might defeat the purpose. Buy regular paper, cut to size, and use cheap spray adhesive.  Let it tack up and stick to the fairing board (plain wood), you will be able to remove it if you let the glue tack up first.  You can spray the board instead but I've found that you end up with crud sticking to it before long.  If the paper gets stubborn to remove use some heat (heat gun, hair dyer, etc.).  I've done that to make custom shaped sanding blocks.  Cheaper than buying PSA paper but akes longer.  Oh, if you spray more than one peice of paper make sure to keep it where dust can't get to it.