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Sanding inside of my boat

4977 Views 20 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  chuck_finley
Hi I've been sanding inside my boat, taking off a spray paint layer that a previous owner put on it, for about an hour now. This is my first time using a power sander and not sure if I'm even doing it right. Do I just do small circles or long strides back and forth or just hover over a spot? Also I'm not sure what wet sanding does but maybe I need to do that? My progress so far is maybe 1 square foot total area of corners that have been sanded because the paint was thin there.
So my questions:
-wet sanding?
-grit? I'm using 200.
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Not really sure what you're trying to show in the pictures, but what kind of sander are you using? 1/4 sheet? random orbit? air powered orbital?

What grit paper are you using? Start with a rough grit like 60 but stop sanding with the 60 when you get through the paint most of the way, then step it up to a smoother grit like 100. I perfer to sand with 150 grit before priming and 220-320 between coats of paint. Aways keep the sander moving so it doesn't dig in to bad. Small circles or a zig-zag pattern work well for me depending on what I'm sanding.
The pictures is just showing what I was going to be sanding I guess because a lot of people don't have spray paint inside there boat I don't think. And thanks!! I will definately do that I need to buy some 60 then I'll resume to my 200. I have 5" orbitals and some smaller triangles for the detailed spots. So I have an orbital sander and the detailed sander I guess is a random orbital? It just vibrates or shakes a bit. Sorry for my ignorance I guess you could call me a youngster without my dad to help me so I'm completely relying on you guys.
But thanks for the tip on 300 or so between coats I never thought to do that! much appreciated!
The 5" orbital is a random orbital, the little triangle deal is just a finish sander. The 60 will get the job done quickly, but be careful, all you are trying to do is get the paint off, you don't want to dig to much into the fiberglass. It's a pain, but keep at it.
Thanks you very much guys I'll tell you how I do tomorrow.
I bought some 80 grit and it's working really well but I went too deep in 3 spots but hopefully it won't matter since they are such small spots. I knocked out most of the boat just corners and stuff to do now.
I plan on using the 2 part poly interlux. Haven't read into paints that much so open to other ideas. It's a bass boat I plan on selling after I paint it so I'm in it for looks while keeping my budget down.
i would look into an auto paint like nason it will give you that look for a smaller price. also going to deep is easy to fix fill with a little primer
you guys are insane telling the man to sand with 80 grit.
It's spray paint, it'll come off with anything.
180 grit would have knocked it off faster than the 80 grit, without damaging anything.
The coarser the grit is, it actually scratches the paint off, rather than sand it off.
I guarantee you 180 would have done a far better job, cleaner, less screw ups, and no scratches.

If you use Nason Ful-Thane (which is actually not too cheap) would give you the look of Awlgrip when shot. You get a similar depth out of the shine, and smooth feel to it.
I wouldn't do it if you plan on keeping it, but I did shoot the inside of one of my skiffs with it once. It looked good, but I don't know how long it lasted. For I sold it shortly after.
Although, I had used Interlux for the non-skid on it.

Nason would run you somewhere around $30ish for the pint I believe, without catalyst.
Nothing wrong with 80 grit. Being he was already sanding with 200 and in an hour he only was able to finish 1 square foot how would 180 really help him? I also doubt it was just spray paint by that description, maybe floor paint.
I agree ith PIB. What has been described has been to remove paint and possibly gelcoat. All that needs to be done it ready it for a coat of paint.

If the paint does not have good adhesion then it has to come off. But when he is sanding in one spot for an hour and paint remains, it has good adhesion.

Sand it smooth - don't try to remove the paint just make it smooth and paint the thing.
well if what he says it sounds like cheap spray paint than if you use 180 only i bet you will clog up the sandpaper fast THATS why i said 80 but everyones different. if you cant get nason to lay down any better than awlgrip you have a problem just saying ;)
well if what he says it sounds like cheap spray paint than if you use 180 only i bet you will clog up the sandpaper fast THATS why i said 80 but everyones different. if you cant get nason to lay down any better than awlgrip you have a problem just saying ;) 

Or, who ever can't make Awlgrip look great probably should get some practice before calling themselves a painter. Because I'll shoot that awlgrip to look like a mirror. 100 times better than a cheap automotive paint that will have shine for a couple months, then die back and become a pale single stage.
Well...I have finshed sanding it all and I used 80 and went back over it all with 200. My dad told me the same thing that Duck said. I didn't have to sand it all off just make it smooth..but too late I guess. I think auto paint is a no go and will look into awlgrip but not sure. Going to west marine today to see what all is out there. Hopefully I get a little color on by the end of the day.
Also is it hard to brush on a paint and make it look good? I'm wondering about techniques to do it.
If you use the interlux perfection you can "roll and tip" it pretty easily with good results. Look up roll and tip on youtube, jamestowndistributors should have a few videos on it.
I'm not sure about awlgrip.
I'm all taped up and rolling and tipping looks great thanks for the info.
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