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This project has been put on the back burner for quite some time, But I'm finally ready to get the next phase going.
Last weekend I made a cradle for the skiff. While sitting on the trailer, the bunks were causing the bottom to flex up. This was origanally a skinned sole boat, no stringers. With the cradle, it allows the bottom to sit right, with a little help from some weight. This should help with the stringer install. A little tip on the wheels I used.... the job I'm presently on is trimming an apartment complex that's going through a remodel. There are dozens and dozens of old shopping carts in one of the units. The front wheels work great. I was told I could take some off of the carts that belonged to stores the are no longer around. I'm sure we all know where there's some abandoned carts laying around.
I'm ready to pick up some plywood and would like to get the thinnest possible. I'm hoping 3/8" will do. If not, I guess It'll be 1/2".
In the pics below show where the (2) stringers will lay. There will also be cleats along the gunnels for the sole to lay on. The distance between the stringers is 10". Between the stringer and gunnel is 14". Can I go with 3/8" for the sole? It will be epoxy coated on the bottom, and glassed on the top. I am also planning on 2-part foaming the spaces between the stringers and cleats,
Next question. How about the gunnel caps? 3/8" or 1/2". The longest distance between the supports is 24". There will be a small lip on the inside dropping maybe 1 1/2". The larger supports will extend down to the sole and be notched for rod holders. The smaller triangled ones only go down about 5 1/2". I could always add more supports if needed. Also, the front deck has already been epoxy tabbed on. It is 1/2". If I go with 3/8" for the gunnel caps I'll just feather the height difference a bit. The rear deck will be 3/8", There will be plenty of bracing.
Question #3...... I sold the 6hp motor the boat came with, looking to go with a 20-25hp. How big of an openeing on the rear deck should there be for the outboard? On the template I have it at 5" x 18". I'm more concerned about the depth not the width. Though I do want some room to get my hands down the sides to get to the bilge pump and whatnot's. (The transom is not "in"....those are the templates made out of 3/4 birch)
#4..... Thre is a slight hook near the stern. It's not major and I'm not sure it will make a noticable difference in this boat. It sarts about 18 from the stern and at about 9" it's up about a fat 1/8". ( looks more in the pic, must be the shadow)
What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance for looking and helping me out with this project.
Last weekend I made a cradle for the skiff. While sitting on the trailer, the bunks were causing the bottom to flex up. This was origanally a skinned sole boat, no stringers. With the cradle, it allows the bottom to sit right, with a little help from some weight. This should help with the stringer install. A little tip on the wheels I used.... the job I'm presently on is trimming an apartment complex that's going through a remodel. There are dozens and dozens of old shopping carts in one of the units. The front wheels work great. I was told I could take some off of the carts that belonged to stores the are no longer around. I'm sure we all know where there's some abandoned carts laying around.


I'm ready to pick up some plywood and would like to get the thinnest possible. I'm hoping 3/8" will do. If not, I guess It'll be 1/2".
In the pics below show where the (2) stringers will lay. There will also be cleats along the gunnels for the sole to lay on. The distance between the stringers is 10". Between the stringer and gunnel is 14". Can I go with 3/8" for the sole? It will be epoxy coated on the bottom, and glassed on the top. I am also planning on 2-part foaming the spaces between the stringers and cleats,


Next question. How about the gunnel caps? 3/8" or 1/2". The longest distance between the supports is 24". There will be a small lip on the inside dropping maybe 1 1/2". The larger supports will extend down to the sole and be notched for rod holders. The smaller triangled ones only go down about 5 1/2". I could always add more supports if needed. Also, the front deck has already been epoxy tabbed on. It is 1/2". If I go with 3/8" for the gunnel caps I'll just feather the height difference a bit. The rear deck will be 3/8", There will be plenty of bracing.

Question #3...... I sold the 6hp motor the boat came with, looking to go with a 20-25hp. How big of an openeing on the rear deck should there be for the outboard? On the template I have it at 5" x 18". I'm more concerned about the depth not the width. Though I do want some room to get my hands down the sides to get to the bilge pump and whatnot's. (The transom is not "in"....those are the templates made out of 3/4 birch)


#4..... Thre is a slight hook near the stern. It's not major and I'm not sure it will make a noticable difference in this boat. It sarts about 18 from the stern and at about 9" it's up about a fat 1/8". ( looks more in the pic, must be the shadow)
What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance for looking and helping me out with this project.