Project update.....A few questions on core thickness......

This project has been put on the back burner for quite some time, But I'm finally ready to get the next phase going.

Last weekend I made a cradle for the skiff. While sitting on the trailer, the bunks were causing the bottom to flex up. This was origanally a skinned sole boat, no stringers. With the cradle, it allows the bottom to sit right, with a little help from some weight. This should help with the stringer install. A little tip on the wheels I used.... the job I'm  presently on is trimming an apartment complex that's going through a remodel. There are dozens and dozens of old shopping carts in one of the units. The front wheels work great. I was told I could take some off of the carts that belonged to stores the are no longer around. I'm sure we all know where there's some abandoned carts laying around.







I'm ready to pick up some plywood and would like to get the thinnest possible. I'm hoping 3/8" will do. If not, I guess It'll be 1/2".

In the pics below show where the (2) stringers will lay. There will also be cleats along the gunnels for the sole to lay on. The distance between the stringers is 10". Between the stringer and gunnel is 14". Can I go with 3/8" for the sole? It will be epoxy coated on the bottom, and glassed on the top. I am also planning on 2-part foaming the spaces between the stringers and cleats,








Next question. How about the gunnel caps? 3/8" or 1/2".  The longest distance between the supports is 24". There will be a small lip on the inside dropping maybe 1 1/2". The larger supports will extend down to the sole and be notched for rod holders. The smaller triangled ones only go down about 5 1/2". I could always add more supports if needed. Also, the front deck has already been epoxy tabbed on. It is 1/2". If I go with 3/8" for the gunnel caps I'll just feather the height difference a bit. The rear deck will be 3/8", There will be plenty of bracing.



Question #3...... I sold the 6hp motor the boat came with, looking to go with a 20-25hp. How big of an openeing on the rear deck should there be for the outboard? On the template I have it at 5" x 18". I'm more concerned about the depth  not the width. Though I do want some room to get my hands down the sides to get to the bilge pump and whatnot's. (The transom is not "in"....those are  the templates made out of 3/4 birch)





#4..... Thre is a slight hook near the stern. It's not major and I'm not sure it will make a noticable difference in this boat. It sarts about 18 from the stern and at about 9" it's up about a fat 1/8". ( looks more in the pic, must be the shadow)
What do you guys think?




Thanks in advance for looking and helping me out with this project.

 

Thanks DuckNut. As far as the hook, I didn't think it would be a big deal and wasn't really planning on spending time fixing it. Just wanted to make sure. I've read quite a bit on here about how hooks in the hull can cause alot of problems.

I may walk on the gunnels, depending on how tippy she gets.

This won't be so much a splash well, as it will be an opening. I was wondering for outboard clamping purposes how big it should be without being too big. The bilge pump will be directly below this opening and I will access it through this area. That being said, you have gave me the thought of actually doing a splash well. I was just hoping to do this boat with the least deck hatches possible....none. I may have to add one for bilge accsess though if I go that route.

 

I hear ya. I wasn't thinking of the possibility of being swamped. The rear was originally totally open anyway. I may try to design some sort of a splashwell. I don't have the motor yet, so there's no way to do the trace thing, and I may have to do that to get area figured out for a splashwell. As for a jackplate, that would most likely be out of the budget. A fixed plate may work though.