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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any tips for installing the new PowerWinch R23? I have a dry launch Ramlin trailer with a Fulton F2 Winch that will be replaced. Anyone using any kind of bumper plug? It would be great to be able to simply plug in the winch like the trailer lights. Will the PowerWinch fit into the existing holes where the Fulton F2 was mounted? Thanks in advance for any insight.
 

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Brandon, FL
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Pretty sure that the winch would have something around 50 amps and would melt any pigtail wiring.

It will probably need a separate harness with circuit breaker.

What do the instructions say?
 

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I use a two prong socket and plug setup that was originally designed for trolling motors at the rear bumper. The powerwinch sourced wires run under the vehicle all the way up to near the battery were a fused link screws onto the positive output of the battery. I'm sure you determine the appropriate wire gauge and fuse if you want to save a few bucks.
My truck has a set of 12vdc distribution terminals where I can tap I to the 12vdc vs wire to the battery.
This plug and associated receptacle like the attwood Heavy-Duty Trolling Motor Connectors 2-Wire 8-gauge.
Then I made a ~6 ft long heat shrinked jumper with a plugs for the winch and the trolling mtr plug.
My process; back down vehicle, leave truck running, put into park, set parking brake, plug jumper in, tighten clutch hand tight, walk down trailer board, clip cable and hook on to boat (when alone, untie boat from dock, pull boat toward trailer) pull winch switch cable ( this is where the remote would be great), guide boat on. Takes just a minute when you get it down.
I had issues early on backing my trailer to far into the water and the bow would rub on the board, ramps differ but I now just barley get the rims wet.
Hope this helps.
 

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I made a little bracket out of Kydex. I also ran the red (power) wire from the battery through the frame of the truck. Then just grounded to the frame on in the rear. Used this method on an Armada and a F-150. No issues.
 

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Seems like my socket came with a bracket, I just used an existing screw,


here is the wiring and fuses used.

It was hard to get the picture of the fuses but I recall they looked like the fuses were run in parallel with a single strap to the hot lead on the chevy.
Like k3 said easy to run under the truck. Just have a hand full of cable ties, connectors and heat shrink.
 

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I have a pwc battery I keep in the trunk with 8' of chord with the plug on the end of it.
I use it and charge the battery every couple of months.
Its portable, if I need to use my buddies truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you all. I got the PowerWinch mounted, now just have to wire it up. As others have suggested, I will use the wiring harness that was included, run it from the positive side of the battery, under the truck, securing it every 18" with cable ties. I'll ground it to the truck frame and am considering using a Battery Tender DC Power Connector kit like I use with the trolling motor. It is rated for 12v to 48V, DC at 80 amps. Depending on where I mount it, I may use either an angle mounting bracket or a flat mounting bracket.
fullsizeoutput_5274.jpeg
 

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Thank you all. I got the PowerWinch mounted, now just have to wire it up. As others have suggested, I will use the wiring harness that was included, run it from the positive side of the battery, under the truck, securing it every 18" with cable ties. I'll ground it to the truck frame and am considering using a Battery Tender DC Power Connector kit like I use with the trolling motor. It is rated for 12v to 48V, DC at 80 amps. Depending on where I mount it, I may use either an angle mounting bracket or a flat mounting bracket. View attachment 52996
don't go straight from the battery, use the fuse panel with the appropriate fuse
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yobata, the wiring harness has a circuit breaker built in. Everything turned out fine. If an idiot like me can install this, anyone can! I just need to figure out where to store the end of the power cord/plug. I have a cover on my truck bed, but still don't want it to get wet. Any ideas?
 

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While not an immediate concern, I would replace the wire cable with synthetic rope from a vendor such as Custom Splice.

I've been truck and boat winching going on 50 years. I've seen more then my fair of injuries to humans and damage to boats when wire winch cable fails. All of my winches have synthetic rope on the spool.

Wire retains energy when it fails and it snaps back and can cause serious injury and even death. Syn rope does not retain energy and will often simply fall slack upon failing.

As a side note, Mike at Master Repair showed me back in the late 90s that the Power Winch electrical plug also makes the best trolling motor plug. My now at a new home '99 Hewes still has the Power Winch plug Mike installed in '99! Installed one on my Riptide on my '17 Emerger 16.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
While not an immediate concern, I would replace the wire cable with synthetic rope from a vendor such as Custom Splice.

I've been truck and boat winching going on 50 years. I've seen more then my fair of injuries to humans and damage to boats when wire winch cable fails. All of my winches have synthetic rope on the spool.

Wire retains energy when it fails and it snaps back and can cause serious injury and even death. Syn rope does not retain energy and will often simply fall slack upon failing.

As a side note, Mike at Master Repair showed me back in the late 90s that the Power Winch electrical plug also makes the best trolling motor plug. My now at a new home '99 Hewes still has the Power Winch plug Mike installed in '99! Installed one on my Riptide on my '17 Emerger 16.
SC Bill, what size in the synthetic rope? 3/8" ok?
 
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