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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my "Jinxed" thread, I mentioned that a rivet had popped under the rear seat and was letting a fountain of water into my 16 ft Starcraft boat. I cut my trip short because of it.

I crawled under there a bit ago with a flashlight and was astonished. "A" rivet ?? One ?? Count 'em by the dozen. The heads are missing off at least 20 and I'm sure the actual count is much higher than that. Some show shiny metal, which I'd think means they are recent fails. Others - many others - are the same color as the surrounding metal, so prob'ly long ago fails. Most don't leak.....figure that.

I've noticed that the floor under my left foot is oil canning now when I put weight there. It didn't do that when 1st got it.

When I started refurbing the boat after purchase, I pulled the center seat out to add the folding grab bar. At that time, I noticed that the aluminum gussets that hold the seat to the hull had several missing rivets as well. I re-installed the seat and repaired the rivets with stainless steel core aluminum blind rivets that don't leak when set.

Uh....I did say "jinxed' earlier ?? Seems like the problems are never-ending.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ogay.....here ya go.....This is one small section at starboard stern. Not as bad forward, consistent across the aft section of the boat:

Automotive tire Automotive exterior Line Rectangle Automotive wheel system


Wood Automotive tire Composite material Tints and shades Metal


Most look like they've been like that for a long time. The inside portions of the rivets are still in place.
 

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what year is your StarCraft? we have a 67 14 foot that we've had since my son was 9. he's 38 now. never lost a rivet. we did have to reset a lot of the keel rivets to stop them leaking when we did the refurb a few years ago. gave it to my grandson.
Water Sky Boat Cloud Watercraft
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what year is your StarCraft? we have a 67 14 foot that we've had since my son was 9. he's 34 now. never lost a rivet. we did have to reset a lot of the keel rivets to stop them leaking when we did the refurb a few years ago. gave it to my grandson.
View attachment 185574
Mine is a 1995 model. Makes up for yours. 😢
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The only practical solution I can see is to pull the motor off'n it and flip it upside down so I can get at it with the big 18" rivet popper. It'll also be easier to drill accurately and use the Clecos effectively. Working in between frame rails and bunks and all, it'd be nearly impossible on the trailer. Shouldn't take too awful long, but it'll be a job of work.

I also think I'd best make this a priority. With that many gone, the stress on the remaining ones has to be pretty high. Hate to have it come apart under me way offshore somewhere. 'Twould be counter to my continued well being.
 

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agree. we flipped ours to sand and paint the bottom. was pretty easy to do. here is my rehab thread on the StarCraft. great boats and floats shallower than any high dollar fiberglass skiff.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
agree. we flipped ours to sand and paint the bottom. was pretty easy to do. here is my rehab thread on the StarCraft. great boats and floats shallower than any high dollar fiberglass skiff.

You sure made a nice job of it. Very few boats get a 2nd chance, let alone a 3rd. Good on you. Mine will be finished "utilitarian."
 

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Where did you get your boat from?

What type of bunks are on the trailer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bought the boat and trailer from a private party down in St. Pete area. Has carpeted 2 x 4s for bunks and centerline rollers.
 

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Feel your pain since I put together a new riveted 16' Starcraft many years ago (1976 - we took a new Kingfisher hull and installed a complete flats style interior, front and rear casting platforms, while keeping the side console)... It was a great super light inexpensive flats skiff that got fished hard for years - and, of course, needed to be re-riveted on more than one occasion.... Put simply that design works very well in calm waters with folks who don't beat it up... Run it hard in lots of choppy waters - and you'll be losing rivets - and begin to find stress cracks as well (another of those "ask me how I know" propositions since I was younger then and probably tougher than my skiff....).

Yes, you can re-rivet it successfully (and do it sooner rather than later..). A water test will show you just how much trouble you're in... A water test is done on the trailer. Plug the drain hole then using a garden hose fill with water up to the floorboards then get up under the hull and look for drips, weeps, cracks - all the bad news.... Mark each spot with a Sharpy pen so you can find it later. It will also show you why the previous owner sold it...

An alternative to all that is to have a fiberglass shop sand blast then glass the bottom. It will cure your problems but add weight to the hull...

Hope this helps - aren't boats fun? All these years later I don't run boats like I did years ago... Even a dummy like me will learn eventually...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think I'm way past the need for a water test, Bob. When I crawled under there to look for the missing rivet that flooded the boat the other day, I was flabbergasted. I've never heard of such a thing. The pictures clearly show the extent of the damage.

Even if the motor was running, I'd be afraid to run the boat the way it is. Stresses would be concentrated on the remaining rivets and my semi-joking comment about it coming apart out on the water somewhere could actually come true. I'm just going to hafta start at one end and start working my way down.

I'll buy the lumber today to make a shearlegs to lift the motor off with, then take the boat off the trailer and flip it. Going to have to order more of the rivets, too.
 

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Where are you located? I wouldn’t be surprised if one or two folks show up to lend a hand with the riveting if you’re nearby.
 

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Flip it, drill them with the proper bit size bit, if a rivet also goes thru a 3rd piece of metal on the other side of the hull make very that it is all tight when you pop in new rivets.
MPO is I'd use an air pop rivet gun so you get the same pressure with each rivet, also much easier on the hands and forearms.
 

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Your going to be really happy once you get this done. On my first boat off my own I ended up replacing a bunch of rivets like this and afterwards it was like a brand new boat. I am trying to remember if we put 5200 in those rivets also. My buddy and I had no idea what we were doing so probably so.
 

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I'm sure I don't need to tell you that it would not be a bad idea to put a dab of 5200 on each rivet before inserting.
 

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I’d seal each seam with West Systems G650 as I riveted it back together. They have articles on how to do these repairs at http://epoxyworks.com

Anything that does not intrude into the exposed exterior can be a pop rivet. The rest I’d figure out a way to buck and tighten the existing rivets or the new replacements. Its a lot of work but you’ll get years more service from the old girl.

Surely there is a neighbor kid who needs a little pocket money. Bucking rivets does not require much skill.

Also, you can replace rivets with screws and nuts if the whole bucking thing can’t get figured out.
 
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