[TidewateR]

Well, I decided not to bother Mel anymore with emails...so, I thought I'd bother you guys!

Here's the deal: I can not pole in my boat because motor can not be lifted all the way above the water line. When lifted as high as the platform allows, the motor drags bottom in shallow water, AND, because the motor rests all the way port or starboard, it ends up steering me left or right while poling!!
Solution? Getting a new platform..Hah, yah right...good luck finding one close to louisiana.
Short term solution? raise the platform on spacers.

With the platform off, the next highest motor setting is rediculously high!

Wish there was middle ground in the lift knotches

Turns out I need 2 inches of lift...(those blocks are 1.75")

Starboard comes by the sheet and I only need a little...Does anyone have scraps laying around?  ;D  My boat looks naked!!

yall have any other suggestions?

 

[Brett]

Oh yeah, but you won't like it...
Sell the platform, pole from the bow.

                        

Pressure treated 4x6 sections might work, or
glue together 5 inch diameter plywood circles
to needed thickness, then coat with epoxy and paint.

 

[beyondhelp]

Maybe there's a cabinet shop with some corian or other synthetic countertop material scraps they could give you.

I know our local plastics shop has "drops" or small chunks they will sell. (welding shops do this with metal as well)


Spend a little time on google searching, I'll bet you can find a plastics place near you. http://www.sunbeltplastic.com/ these folks are in Slidell.

 

[TidewateR]

pole from the bow.

Hahahaha...Neverrrrrr!!

Thanks for input guys. I called Mel today and he will be mailing some starboard bits my way...WOOHOO

 

[iMacattack]

I poled that boat and my Native (old school not SUV) from the bow and it works very well.

BUT!

You'll like poling from the platform too.

 

[paint it black]

That poling platform came off of his Copperhead no?

Have you considered getting some aluminum spacers made?

Or have those legs cut and extended.
It can't be too much money at all to have it done by a welding shop.
Just cut it and weld in a new pipe.
Have them bevel the edges on both pipes and get a good tig weld.
Once welded, it can be smoothened out with a flap wheel and no one would know that it was ever extended.

It can't be more than $100 to get done.

 

[TidewateR]

I appreciate the input as always, guys. [smiley=toast.gif]

I took Str8's advice and got the platform extended...it was a little over $100 and it looks like they did a good job. I'm pleased overall, but they didn't get the new metal to flow with the existing curves...so it's not perfect in terms of looks, but I'm certain that the reds wont care

I ended up getting 3" added and that did the trick. I can't wait to get out on the water.

 

[makin moves]

dont know if you want to spend the extra cash but a bobs trim and tilt would make tilting the motor easier on you and also set the motor back to clear the platform

 

[TidewateR]

man that tilt/trim would be great! and at only 14 pounds, I wouldn't be adding that much weight...guess, I could always lose 14lbs off the ole waist line anyway (in theory of course). With a $550 price tag without installation, I will have to wait on it. First, I would like to trailer the boat down to the skiff shop for seadek and a paint job.

 

[makin moves]

i put one on my copperhead yesterday its not to bad of a project to do yourself. losing that 14 pounds thats the hard part trust me

 

[mark_gardner]

maybe you can wrap the uprights with some rope or something to hide the welds ?? :-/ thats a cool looking skiff, who makes it?

 

[makin moves]

thats a native suv

 

[paint it black]

You could probably get a flap disc on an angle grinder with a fine grit like 220 and grind those welds smooth.
Once it's ground smooth, you can polish it out and not see the welds.

Just hope they beveled the edges of the pipe, it will allow the welds to catch good and be ground smooth without altering the strength of the weld.