Paint

i've used brightside using a sprayer and also the roll and tip method and was quite suprised how well the finish turned out using the roller its not as durable as a two part but its real easy to work with.... also makes touch ups a snap

 

i dont proclaim to be a paint specialist and in fact probably know just enough to make me dangerous but typically 2 parts paint are harder than 1 part paints such as brightside. my experince with bright side is that i painted the interior of the mud minnow when i bought it and when i sold it a year later it seemed to be holding up pretty well so in consideration of that i painted the interior and exterior of my fin & feather with it also and the only areas that have worn thru are areas that i dont think a 2 part paint would have survived in either such as wearing thru where a hatch cover rubs aginst the liner or scrapes on the hull and sides due to bouncing off of oyster bars cause i drive it like i stole it ;D thats why i love the easy touch up characteristics of the one part

 

I used interlux brightside on my last 2 boats. It is really easy to use and applies very well with the roll and tip meathod. I've been considering what paints to use on my next project and now I think I'm going to stick with the brightside, But on the bottom where it gets the most abuse I plan to use epoxy and grafite mix for protection. The top of my boat held up very well, but I think it was the webbing I used, Krylon webbing spray, that helped with the durability.

 

The screen sounds like trouble waiting to happen. You can either buy a "non skid" additive and use with any paint or use clean, fine sand. Roll your final coat on and dust with the sand/additive to create a slip free surface.

 

you can get the grip additive from home depot or lowes for 1/2 the price and a little goes a long way! I'm not sure if I'm going to add it to my next paint job since the webbing added alot of grip.
If you do go with the grip additive make sure to stir alot and frequently cause it has a tendency to bunch up.
While the screen idea is inventive I doubt it would work long term cause the paint isn't meant for laminating purposes. Plus what if you need to make a repair?

 

yeah the stuff at home depot and lowes is the same stuff at half the cost and you'll most likely not use it all so it will keep till the next project or for furure touch ups . i think i still have 1/2 a can left your welcome to if you want to meet up some where, i'm in mandarin

 

I use a product by sherwin williams its a marine epoxy that they can mix to any color .Its called Tile Clad i have it on both my boats and recomend it highly . it is the thickness of gel coat , covers in one coat , and a 2 gallon kit will cost you @100 bucks . [/img]

 

The additive is called shark grip.

Hang on a while until paint it black comments...painting is his profession.

 

i think thats the same stuff they are coating kitchen counter tops, bath room shower stalls, commercial bathrooms with etc..... it's proving to be a serious durable coating it looks very promising

 

I highly suggest you stay away from a paint like Brightside or Easypoxy.
I mean, it'll have a good finish. But you can always dig into it.
It's not catalyzed, so you run the risk of it not curing if the conditions are right.
Although in the summer, you shouldn't have a problem.
But if it's too cold out, the paint doesn't seem to cure sometimes.
I messed with those paints a lot and have decided to stay a ways away from them.

I normally only go with Awlgrip nowadays.
But I know it can be pricey.
But it will be there forever.
By far the best finish of all paints.
A quart kit of Awlgrip can retail around $130.
But it becomes two sprayable quarts of paint, which is a lot.

All it should take to spray a micro would be two sprayable quarts.
MAYBE more if it's complex design, or trying to go with a light color over sketchy work and you choose not to use a primer.

A catalyzed paint will not damage by chemicals such as lacquer thinner, acetone, etc.
Whereas a non catalyzed paint will.

I've never heard of that paint shown above used on that skiff, but it does look sweet.
I will have to look around for a Sherwin Williams place around South Florida and check it out.


For the non-skid, you can go with any brand of marine microspheres really.
Interlux makes their Intergrip.
Awlgrip has their nonskid as well.

Or you can just pick up a gallon for $30 of the no named stuff at the marine supplier.

I have a brand new unopened can of Intergrip.
I've been using the Awlgrip brand.

 

if you want you can look on the sherwin williams web site for a data tech sheet , you can compare all the tests done with the 2 part epoxy tile clad to gelcoat and it seems far superior. the commercial guys here in nc swear by it and i tried it on my 18' net boat and now thats all i use. No matter what paint you use be shure to prep the surface well

 

hey Karl, how long has it been on your boat? I've been reading up on it for my next boat and alot of other boat builders use it as primer, but not top coat vecause of possible chalking issues. I'll be trailering my boat and it stays in my garage so I'm not to worried, but it would be nice to know it doesn't lose it's shine to fast.

 

As a comparison FC, I painted the interior of my old Stumpnocker with West Marine's brand of single part toside paint (made by Petit or Interlux, I can't remember), and it began to get chaulky in about a year, stored outside 100% of the time.

You know how durable the single part stuff is, if this stuff is tougher, I'd be much more inclined to try it out.

As a side note, it appears that my latex paint is on about the same level of durability as the single part topside paints are. Tests are ongoing...

 

I had brightside on my gheenoe for 2 years or so and it still looked great, but that was being stored in my garage and fishing freshwater. However the single part boat paints and the exterior latex paint you are using are UV stabilized, from what I've been reading the tile-clad may not be which is why so many use it as a primer and them topcoat it.

I'm about to build a large cooler for a friend who does gator trapping so I may give it a try and see how it goes.

 

Nevermind, I just called sherwin-williams here and spoke with the rep. He told me especially in florida he would not recommend it because it has no UV protection. Several of his customers have tried it with bad results, as it yellowed and chalked in no time.

I may use it as a primer though because a 2 gallon kit was only $83.