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Building a Salt Boatworks FRS-15' boat. I'm almost done with the bottom and it's time to decide on a paint system. The hull is plywood covered in glass/ epoxy. Leaning towards an epoxy (2 part) high build primer followed by a 2 part polyurethane paint. I am experienced with a spray gun but also happy to do the roll and tip method.
The boat will be on the trailer indoors when not in use.
I'd like it to be durable as I intend to use it often at the coast. Looking for any recommendations on what has worked well for others. Thanks in advance.
 

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I used Epifanes mono-urethane with their marine primer. Rolled with 6" fine foam cover. Came out great. Holding up well. They were great to work with. Great tech support.
 

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If you can afford the epoxy primer and 2 part polyurethane , I would go that route. It might take a couple of coats of both. Some high build primers are not meant to be used below the waterline. I don't know if that matters with a trailer queen.
 

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I have built many boats. I have used local paint, Interlux perfection, and awlgrip. I have to say that interlocks perfection is by far my favorite. It is also cheaper than awlgrip. It roll and tips better. The durability of it is great. And the fumes isn’t near as bad as all grip. As far as the bottom is concerned. I would recommend using a graphite epoxy mixed bottom. Graphite is some amazing stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so much for the recommendations. Spending some time educating myself on everyone's suggestions and watching lots of videos on youtube. I have spray equipment but like the idea of roll/ tip method. Seems like it is how a boat should look.
Fortunately, the budget is not an issue. I'm ok buying whatever suits the application. After building/ restoring many airplanes over the years, boat paint prices are a welcome change.
This is my first build and it has proven to be a learning experience for sure. My plan is to keep it a dirt simple skiff. I'll get some more pictures as I progress but this is her bottom today just before we flipped it. I faired a bit before applying epoxy/ glass. I will prime/ fair later after the top is done to set my edges and really make it slick. Because I knew I would be near oysters I used some additional plys on the keel and chines. The rest is 8 oz. bi-directional with a 2.5 oz. finish ply.
This is a FRS-15 kit from Salt Boatworks. It's the first kit of this model and has been about perfect. She is 15' long and 64" wide. It gets pretty flat aft but has a nice V up front.
Looking forward to running it up the creeks by our house on the ICW, back side of Shack, and out to the cape by Harkers Island.
Ordered a Suzuki 30 that will be here next week. Thinking a micro jack plate and a grab bar is about all I'll add to it.
The grab bar in the picture is one I saw on this site. Love the simplicity and would love to get one if they are commercially available. I wish I could give photo credit for the grab bar but I can't remember who posted it. If not- I can build my own.
Thanks again!
 

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Thanks so much for the recommendations. Spending some time educating myself on everyone's suggestions and watching lots of videos on youtube. I have spray equipment but like the idea of roll/ tip method. Seems like it is how a boat should look.
Fortunately, the budget is not an issue. I'm ok buying whatever suits the application. After building/ restoring many airplanes over the years, boat paint prices are a welcome change.
This is my first build and it has proven to be a learning experience for sure. My plan is to keep it a dirt simple skiff. I'll get some more pictures as I progress but this is her bottom today just before we flipped it. I faired a bit before applying epoxy/ glass. I will prime/ fair later after the top is done to set my edges and really make it slick. Because I knew I would be near oysters I used some additional plys on the keel and chines. The rest is 8 oz. bi-directional with a 2.5 oz. finish ply.
This is a FRS-15 kit from Salt Boatworks. It's the first kit of this model and has been about perfect. She is 15' long and 64" wide. It gets pretty flat aft but has a nice V up front.
Looking forward to running it up the creeks by our house on the ICW, back side of Shack, and out to the cape by Harkers Island.
Ordered a Suzuki 30 that will be here next week. Thinking a micro jack plate and a grab bar is about all I'll add to it.
The grab bar in the picture is one I saw on this site. Love the simplicity and would love to get one if they are commercially available. I wish I could give photo credit for the grab bar but I can't remember who posted it. If not- I can build my own.
Thanks again!
That's a beautiful hull, and looks like you're doing an excellent job. A 30 hp should make that boat fly, 30+ for sure. The grab bar you can order through Boat Builder Central in Vero, they are the supply and plans side at Bateau. They can also have custom work done, and whoever is doing their grab bars does some nice welding. Working on mine and others peoples boats, and building 3 Bateau boats, I've always used Awlgrip. A bit pricey, but it is hard as a rock, will never fade or chalk like gelcoat, and very easy to apply either roll and tip, or spray. I look forward to following the rest of your build, nice work. Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mike- awesome link. I've looked through some of their plans but never realized they had so many items specific to this type of boat.
It's cool that you are building several. A friend in the hangar a few over built a Tango skiff. He can't take it anywhere without people asking him to sell it or build them one.
If any of you guys see something I am doing wrong speak up! It's my first boat and it will be a target rich environment.
 
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Thanks so much for the recommendations. Spending some time educating myself on everyone's suggestions and watching lots of videos on youtube. I have spray equipment but like the idea of roll/ tip method. Seems like it is how a boat should look.
Fortunately, the budget is not an issue. I'm ok buying whatever suits the application. After building/ restoring many airplanes over the years, boat paint prices are a welcome change.
This is my first build and it has proven to be a learning experience for sure. My plan is to keep it a dirt simple skiff. I'll get some more pictures as I progress but this is her bottom today just before we flipped it. I faired a bit before applying epoxy/ glass. I will prime/ fair later after the top is done to set my edges and really make it slick. Because I knew I would be near oysters I used some additional plys on the keel and chines. The rest is 8 oz. bi-directional with a 2.5 oz. finish ply.
This is a FRS-15 kit from Salt Boatworks. It's the first kit of this model and has been about perfect. She is 15' long and 64" wide. It gets pretty flat aft but has a nice V up front.
Looking forward to running it up the creeks by our house on the ICW, back side of Shack, and out to the cape by Harkers Island.
Ordered a Suzuki 30 that will be here next week. Thinking a micro jack plate and a grab bar is about all I'll add to it.
The grab bar in the picture is one I saw on this site. Love the simplicity and would love to get one if they are commercially available. I wish I could give photo credit for the grab bar but I can't remember who posted it. If not- I can build my own.
Thanks again!
If you're used to shooting planes, hit that thing with some Imron and let her eat! Most aviation paints are linear polyurethanes as are the popular marine coatings. Pick the system you are used to. There is no reason to switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I bet I have 10 gallons of the stuff in the paint cabinet!
 

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Yea im in the process now of totally redoing a deck and hull. wend with the two part epoxy primer for the outer hull and got a good deal on some Pettit easy poxy (got a good deal) for the hull above the water line. below I'll be using a hard Pettit bottom paint (got a good deal). going to try and match the nonskid on my skiff already with some water based Kiwi Grip. hope it works well ill let you know how its going. but if you do not gel coat the hull you will need an epoxy primer barrier coat to halt the inevitable blistering that will occur over time if the proper steps don't get taken.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Been making pretty good progress on the FRS-15. I decided to keep it simple and just go with a one part paint I could roll and tip. I did apply several coats of Interlux epoxy barrier coat first and used that as a sandable primer. For paint, I used Jamestown Distributors Wet edge. I custom mixed a blue to my liking and am down to the last coat tomorrow am. I have been wet sanding with 400 between each coat (5 total) and it came out awesome. The roll/ tip method with this paint is pretty easy. I thinned it alot and put it on very thin. That, and wet sanding between coats seemes to be the trick to get it to look as good as any gel coat. Still a bit of sanding before my last coat but she is close to being ready to flip for good. Been steadily lightening up the blue until it is as close to my 33 Onslow as I can get it. Been a very fun build and I can't say enough good things about the designer.
 

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