Opinions needed from fellow boaters

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Capnredfish, Jan 12, 2018 at 6:53 AM.

  1. Capnredfish

    Capnredfish Well-Known Member

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    You have probably seen past threads from me about selling skiff, getting a new one and so on. Well after thinking, hitting age 50, cost of new, spending retirement money, how much longer would I actually pole a small skiff, arthritis. I think I am just going to keep mine until I can't do it.
    So I want to fix some non structural cracks, refinish floor, new Seadek and the big question is filling in front bulk head hatch opening and glassing in a large deck hatch on the B2. I am capable of the glass work. But redoing all of the non skid is where I am stuck.
    I'm very mechanically inclined, very meticulous, and dam near a perfectionist.
    Ideas please on what type/process. Maybe I could have someone just do the non skid. Ideas on cost if you ever had it done in central Florida.
    Thank you.
     
  2. mosquitolaGOON

    mosquitolaGOON Well-Known Member

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    Call the Skiff Shop in Edgewater, they do great work from what I've seen.
    (386) 690-7543
     

  3. Vertigo

    Vertigo Carpe Diem

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    I like your plan, but if you're just approaching 50, figure on using your boat for at least the next 25 years. If you're mechanically inclined and meticulous, you should be able to figure out how to do non-skid as you want it done...otherwise there's always people you can hire. Here's one way to go:
     
  4. Capnredfish

    Capnredfish Well-Known Member

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    Like that but a quick google of cost looks like 40/60 bucks a square foot just for the mold pattern material. 25 more years, not happening with my knees.
     
  5. lemaymiami

    lemaymiami Well-Known Member

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    As a guy who's still running a hull that's a 1988 (and that I bought unrigged...) I like the idea of up-grading your existing skiff. There's only one thing to remember about that proposition, though. With rare exceptions, don't count on the costs of the up-grade being reflected in your re-sale price down the road... If you're not planning on selling - then every penny may be worth it to you, but I wouldn't expect much in the way of increased value on a re-sale....
     
    No Bait / Lures Only likes this.
  6. sjrobin

    sjrobin I Love microskiff.com!

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    I would not spend any significant $$ unless I was absolutely sure the hull structure is ok. To test the transom area, attach the trailer to the vehicle, transom tie downs tight, trim the engine up, then grab the lower unit and put upward pressure on the engine several times looking for any flex in transom aft area.
    Next check the cap to hull connection by grabbing the edge of the cap and putting upward pressure on the cap all the way around the cap.
    If you really want to be thorough, buy a large rubber mallet and (use a rolling mechanics cart to make it a little easier), gently tap the bottom of the hull starting aft moving forward checking for soft areas.
    Or, if you don't use the skiff much or keep it out of choppy water most of the time, don't worry about it and do the cosmetic repairs. After all, boats and skiffs are just a piece of fiberglass or aluminum with an engine mounted to it.
     
    fishicaltherapist and DBStoots like this.
  7. Capnredfish

    Capnredfish Well-Known Member

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    There are no hull issues. Cracks or voids. Cored vacuum bag construction. No cap issues. Bonded as tight as new. I know every inch. Not concerned with resale. Just seems financially smarter to fix a few things and add what I want from a new 30k skiff. Hatch idea requires new non skid. Otherwise non skid is like new.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018 at 4:55 PM
  8. makin moves

    makin moves Well-Known Member

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    Maybe reach out to Beavertail and talk to them about doing the work?
     
  9. Capnredfish

    Capnredfish Well-Known Member

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    Any other non skid ideas. Want to test some out.