Ok so I'm a newb when it comes to skiffs but I'm pretty handy, build old harleys, and want to get back into boating and fishing. I see a few good looking boats that are "affordable" come up every now and again and I'm just not sure what to look for or keep an eye out for when it comes to older hulls. Yes I'd love to have a no wood hull but when a early 80's late 70's Hews redfisher comes up with a newer motor for 5k it peaks my interest. So....what should i look for, be aware of when looking at hulls of that age/era? Are there things I can fix in the garage with a little know how? If I'm not asking in the right place let me know where to look and read. Thanks for the help
Older/Classic hull questions
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Joined
·
7,690 Posts
When looking at an older hull, I'm looking for damage.
Things that don't look right on the hull.
Stress fractures, impact rings in the gelcoat, cracks,
delamination of fiberglass layup, patches, chips, dings,
scrapes and glasswork that doesn't match the hull layup.
Cracked stringers, bulkhead separation, staining caused
by water leakage from rotting stringers or framing.
A plastic mallet, used to tap on a hull, will produce a sharp
clear rap if the glass is solid and a fuzzy sound if the
fiberglass has been poorly applied or is delaminating.
Underfoot floor flex can indicate separation between glass and core material.
Gaps between the cap and hull can indicate poor construction
or damage caused by rough use. A damaged rubrail
also shows rough usage. Look at the hull at night with
a high intensity flashlight. Shining the light inside the hull
will show through thin areas in the hull when viewed
on the outside and cracks that aren't visible in daylight.
Use that flashlight to inspect all underdeck areas and the bilge.
I prefer older hulls. It's not hard to figure out if one is
going to be worth the time and money.
Things that don't look right on the hull.
Stress fractures, impact rings in the gelcoat, cracks,
delamination of fiberglass layup, patches, chips, dings,
scrapes and glasswork that doesn't match the hull layup.
Cracked stringers, bulkhead separation, staining caused
by water leakage from rotting stringers or framing.
A plastic mallet, used to tap on a hull, will produce a sharp
clear rap if the glass is solid and a fuzzy sound if the
fiberglass has been poorly applied or is delaminating.
Underfoot floor flex can indicate separation between glass and core material.
Gaps between the cap and hull can indicate poor construction
or damage caused by rough use. A damaged rubrail
also shows rough usage. Look at the hull at night with
a high intensity flashlight. Shining the light inside the hull
will show through thin areas in the hull when viewed
on the outside and cracks that aren't visible in daylight.
Use that flashlight to inspect all underdeck areas and the bilge.
I prefer older hulls. It's not hard to figure out if one is
going to be worth the time and money.
Joined
·
788 Posts
Where are you located? I have an older flats boat (Signature) that is structurally fine. It is a top of the line boat with hydraulic steering, Bennet tabs and many other extras. I can email you a photo if interested. It is 19' and 140 HP Evinrude so not exactly a microskiff.
Best regards,
Frank_S
Asking $2500 OBO
Best regards,
Frank_S
Asking $2500 OBO
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