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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanna put a strip of kevlar down my keel and chines for general rock and dock impact protection. Not planning on shooting class v's just want a little cushion for New River shoals on my Riverhawk. Im using epoxy, but was wondering if it will make a big difference if I sand down to bare glass in those spots or just knock the top layer of gel down then go with it. Planning on a bedliner type coating on top of this, maybe a top layer of 6oz cloth on top of the kevlar. The difference in sanding to bare glass versus the top layer of gel is pretty substantial. If I gotta do it then so be it, otherwise id like to save some time.
 

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Brandon, FL
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If you attempt to sand off the gel you will never get a smooth surface again without fairing for a month.

If you are going to bed liner then skip the extra work and expense. That line-x stuff is very tough and will add considerable stiffness to the hull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Honestly duck im not too worried about how the bottom will look. I probably wont fair too much. She will share duty as a quasi drift boat for musky and trout and a few trips to the marsh in NC/SC. Just looking for that extra extra impact protection in case I hit a rock.
 

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Riptide Boat Works N.C.
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Yes always, always grind the gel of the boat before your repair. And one more hint Kevlar does not grind well so make sure your repair looks good before the epoxy cures
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea I kinda figured that was the answer. I was gonna lay some cloth over the kevlar so I had a sandable surface to blend.
 

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I've wondered if one could find a tough plastic (like Kydex snife sheaths) in a long length that could be glued on the keel line.
 

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Brandon, FL
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From the looks of the sheath, it is a heat vacuumed product. Glues won't like it but if you want something similar, look at keel guard.
 

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Living & Dying in 3/4 Time
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Might also look into Line-X coating the keel. A couple boutique builders do this.
 

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Just thinking out loud.. Flexible black tubing (1.5" plastic water pipe), if you cut it lengthwise; you could attach it to the keel with either silicone or screws. Probably wouldn't be the prettiest scuff buffer, but you would save $200 over using the high dollar yachtsman's goodies.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
But then you have catchy screwheads through your hull that will rip when they hit something. Silicone will not keep it in place.
 

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But then you have catchy screwheads through your hull that will rip when they hit something. Silicone will not keep it in place.
Yeah, you're right. That's what I don't like about fiberglass boats as opposed to a wooden framed (and/or skinned) boat. I will try to remember that when I settle on a skiff design to build.
 
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Don't use Kevlar! It does not hold enough resin to help with impact and it will just peel right off. You want abrasion resistance, not tensile strength! Get a piece of craft felt that matches the color of your boat and cut it to the shape you want, Tape off and prep the bottom of your boat with some 80 grit paper. Soak the felt in epoxy , lay it on the prepped area and then pull the tape off to clean up any splatter.

Chopped strand matt is a little better, but you have to wet trim when its hard, but it before it cures to pull of any splatter. Felt works fine as long as your hull is in good shape underneath it.

This is what all the white water guys do to their canoes and drift boats. I had to grind mine off every few years and redo it, but I was purposefully ramming it into rocks on class IV rivers.
 
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